Question about Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater: Toyostove Laser 73 Shipping

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Laser 73 heater will run fine till it reaches high mode then the burner will go out . code EEE 6,  by pushing red button till fuel sump is full - the heater will repeat the process. Also the gasket under lid of fuel sump seemes to be leaking fuel.

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Re: laser 73

My Laser 73 does the same thing at least once, and sometimes twice, a year. The EE6 code is what the onboard computer gives when it THINKS the flame has gone out. Now, it COULD be that all that is wrong is you are out of fuel, OR you have water in the fuel. But....the more likely scenerio, (and what has always gone wrong with mine) is a common problem in the flame pot:
There is a stainless steel baffle near the bottom of the flame pot. (about 2 inches off the bottem). This baffle is used to "form the flame", cause it to curl up around the inside edges of the pot, where the air intake holes are, to create a clean-burning, high-efficiency blue flame. Over time, this baffle becomes horribly warped and distorted from the intense heat. (an engineering design screwup, IMO) (but you'll never get them to admit it) This warping of the baffle, in turn, causes the flame itself to become uneven, and to also begin burning poorly, with soot deposits. One of the first hints this is happening is lots of YELLOW flame, instead of the usual blue. When this happens, the flame SENSOR becomes sooted and dirty, and no longer is able to sense the flame. It tells the computer to shut down, because it thinks there is no flame, hence the "EE6" code. This sensor is simply a stainless steel rod poking into the flame pot. It's on the front of the pot, two screw fastening, and has a single wire attached to it, which runs to the computer. It is used to detect IONS (minute current) running from the flame front to the pot itself. (ground) And....(as if all this is not enough), the gaskets around the middle section of the flame pot, and at the top, usually develop cracks and leaks.
Cleaning the sensor (with steel wool) usually isn't enough to fix this problem. You will likely have to replace both of the fire-pot gaskets, the flame pot baffle, and also the burner "mat". (a round, flat, fiberglass mat glued to the bottem of the flame pot. Vacuum out all the dirt and soot. The baffle "unscrews" with about a quarter-twist CCW. (lift upwards on it, while turning CCW) Use fire-proof sealer on the new gaskets. Plan on all day taking it apart, and back together again. (a time consuming fun) Good luck!

Posted on Jan 25, 2008

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Re: laser 73

My guess is that your stove is almost like a monitor. the kerosene goes from your supply to the heater sump. there's a filter inside the sump. two screws will remove the plate where the filter is. the button you push on the side opens the float chamber valve and the kero just trickles in. up top is a solenoid operated pump that pulses when its working.

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

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I have a toyostove Laser 73. i have fuel leaking from the reset knob and rubber grommet on the fuel sump. is there a rebuild kit for the fuel sump available?

It looks like the posted answers do not address your issue. If fuel is leaking at your sump and vent, shut the small fuel valve inside the stove off (reverse threads )and and drain your fuel sump. Once drained, open the fuel valve and if it floods again, you have a bad float. If not, the red "reset" button was either pushed down multiple times or held down. This causes a flooding problem. That should cure your problems.

Sep 19, 2012 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

1 Answer

Toyostove laser 73 displays ee 10. Toyo is brand new, no obstructions in flue, fuel tank is a good height, only pressed red button once for a second, blower fan works.


EE10 is not good. This means you had a flame in the pot when there should not have been one. The red button is to be used very carefully. One time for one second. I think you have pushed the button too much and got a fair amount of fuel into the burner. Without pushing the red button try the stove again. If you burn out the fuel in the burner the stove will operate normally. If the code continues I would look at the hook up for the air and exhaust to be sure they are correct. If they are backward it can cause an EE10.

Keep us posted,


Jun 01, 2010 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

1 Answer

I have a rinnai heater and it stopped working all

rinnai, toyostove and monitor heaters are basically all the same. first you have to make sure your fuel valve is open at the tank. next you have to reset the tank lockout on the sump. then set your set point higher than your room temperature. now press on. the unit will go through a 300 second purge cycle. the pot heater should turn on when the purge cycle starts. after the purge cycle the fuel pump turns on and pumps fuel into the pot. when it vaporizes the igniter lights it. when a flame is detected the flame rod says ok to keep running so the fuel pump shifts into high speed. when plenum temperature reaches a preset level the fan turns on.

Oct 17, 2009 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

3 Answers

Does not extinguish

If your fuel was yellow it was #2 home heating oil. Toyotomi Laser heater run well on #1. Since yours in giving you a EE10 message you are going to have to open the burner and clean it, the blower and the heat exchanger. The air holes are blocked on the burner and it takes too long to burn the fuel up, EE10.
This is a dirty job but not that difficult. Try and use their dealer locator. You should find a dealer in South Dakota that will be able to get you some gaskets you might need.

Good luck,

Tom Hawkins

Jan 27, 2009 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

2 Answers

Toyo Laser 73, starts, fires then goes out, flashes EE02

here is the problems associated with code EE02.
problem cause solution
no ignition: out of fuel check fuel gauge or tank, refuel

fuel tank valve closed open valve turning clockwise

air pocket in fuel line push reset button on the fuel sump, located right inside .

clogged flue pipe clean flue pipe

clogged fuel strainer clean fuel strainer

ignitor,circuit board, consult dealer
flame sensor, or fuel
pump malfunction.

it sounds like it may be a clogged strainer located in fuel sump or a bad circuit board hope this helps

Jan 22, 2009 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

1 Answer

Laser 56 - leaking fuel at heater feed through


It sounds like the igniter is no good. Everytime you try to start the stove the fuel pump puts fuel into the burner. If the igniter works it burns it out, if not it just builds up. If it gets high enough it comes out the igniter. Now, there could be another reason for the fuel. Have you ever pushed the little red putton on the sump? I will say, do not push that button until you know what it does. It can flood your heater big time. Rule of thumb for the red button, one time for one second, only.

You need to sop up the fuel from inside the burner. Use a rolled up paper towel. Once you have proved the igniter you can try again. If you can't prove the igniter you need a new one.

Tom Hawkins

Jan 05, 2009 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

1 Answer

Toyostove laser 73error codes

EE 6 can be some kind of obstruction in the fuel line causing the fuel to not reach the heater. It could be the high limit switch being activated. For that they say clean the fan, and fan cover. Your tank could be too high. The fuel sump valve could be malfunctioning. I think you would need to replace the pump for that. (It probably is not that as your heater does run for a while.) Finally it could be a flame sensor malfunction. Did you notice if there is a lot of carbon built up in your heat pot? It could be building up on the flame rod, causing the heater to not be able to sense a flame. Is your burner ring (the metal thing that sets inside the heat pot) warped? This will cause your heater to go out from time to time as the fame burns erratic and too hot, building up more carbon. Replacing that burner ring if it is warped could solve all your problems. You might wantt o replace the burner mat while you are at it.

Dec 31, 2008 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

1 Answer

Toyostove Laser 73 EE2

The firing sequence for a L73 is blink, blink, blink, on the green burner light, then it clicks up to the medium, amber or yellow light...that's when the pump kicks on. If you hear click, click, click, or thump, thump, thump, that means the pump is starving for fuel. The problem is from the carburaot/sump back to the fuel tank. You may have icing in your line or a line restriction, no fuel, plugged fuel filter or plugged sump screen. You can thaw your fuel line, until you have a free flow of fuel and then push the red restart button on top of the sump. Try to restart your Toyo.

If you follow the firing sequence and hear no click, click, click or thump , thump, thump and your Toyo goes off on EE2 then you can have a dirty flame sensor...the whilte wire running to a U shaped part that is the ground for the entire unit. You can take ythe ytwo phillips screws out, turn the part to the side and wiggle it out. Clean it qith a green scrubby or sandpaper and put it back in. Be sure it points stright down. Then take out the igniter which are the red wires. Put a long screw driver in there and rattle it around real good. You are trying to shake any carbon cxhains off the burner ring that can be "shorting" the flame sensor. You can also removee the 1/2 inch flare nut from the fuel nozzle...brass yellow colored metal part, and put a paper clip or wire down that about 3 inches. That will clear any blockage in front or inside it. Put everything back together, hit the red reset button on the sump and re-fire your Toyo. You might get it going in this manner. If not, you may need a tuneup because your Toyo is too sooted up to run correctly. Try these things and post back!

Nov 10, 2008 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

1 Answer

Laser 72D Fuel Sump

If your fuel sump keeps tripping, you have one of two problems, a defective seal on the inlet, or your fuel pressure is too high. If it is the latter, then you need to put a pressure regulator inline before the brass connector/flare fitting in the back. If it is a bad seal, which it could also be as the heater you have is rather old, you then will need to replace the fuel sump only.

Mar 10, 2008 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

2 Answers

Toyostove laser 55

sequence of operation is just like the monitor. combustion blower comes on to purge chamber of fumes. after the delay, the solenoid pump comes on and deposits fuel to the burner mat, within 20 sec the igniter comes on, incandesces and ignites the fuel if there is no flame, the flame rod is supposed to shut down heater and go into a lockout condition until shut off or unplugged to reset. check solenoid pump first. you already know the igniter works. check the fuel filter in the fuel sump might be clogged. check the fuel sump float valve, might be stuck, supposed to hang free in the sump with needle valve open. thermostat is digital just starts and shuts down the burner and solenoid pump.

Dec 13, 2007 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

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