After the bike has been standing still for the winter, I wanted to ride today. But when I put it in first gear, it stopped. I discovered that the clutch doesn't work properly. Even when the chutch lever is fully pulled, the bike does not roll freely. It was all fine when I left it 4 months ago, and this winter has not been too cold, so nothing has frozen. I have opened the cover on the left side and I can see parts moving when I pull the clutch. Can anyone please tell me what can be the problem?
About halfway down the clutch cable is an adjustment, covered by an accordian boot.
Slide the boot up out of the way, and at the adjuster, loosen the lock nut, and shorten the adjuster as short as possible.
Go back to the clutch pressure plate you seen under the primary cover.
In the center is an allen head screw with a lock nut around it.
Loosen the lock nut, and turn the allen head out about 1/2 - 3/4 turn.
Slowly turn it back in until you just feel it touch something. This is the adjustment screw touching the pushrod that moves the pressure plate out, to allow the clutch to release. Make sure the lock nut is unscrewed enough that it is not hitting the plate, causing the adjustment screw to feel like it stopped.
Again, with the adjustment screw JUST lightly touching, unscrew it 1/2 to 1 full turn.
Hole the screw from turning while you tighten the lock nut (about 20 ft/lbs torque, slightly more than spark plugs).
Now, go back to the cable adjuster, and unscrew it so the adjuster lengthens.
You want to adjust it so there is just a little free play at the clutch lever.
At the clutch lever, pull the cable away from it just enough to remove any free play. You're NOT trying to pull the cable off! LIGHTLY pull just to remove slack!
Proper adjustment is when the gap created by the above (between cable end and clutch lever cable holder/mount) is 1/16" - 1/8", go back and tighten cable adjustment lock nut, while holding the adjuster from turning.
3 wrenches help, 2 in one hand to hold the two adjuster hexes, and a 3rd one to tighten the lock nut.
Pull the clutch lever 3-5 times to insure the clutch release ramp balls are seated, and recheck the cable gap at the clutch lever.
If this doesn't work, the clutch plates probably got "welded" together (not literally, but a term used to indicate they are stuck together).
Then you'll have to tear the clutch pack apart to free up/inspect the plates.
A special clutch diaphram spring tool is needed for this.
SOURCE: 1100 wierd clutch disengage problem
Bleed your slave cylinder on the sprocket cover and refill the hydraulic fluid. If you have any leaks you will get air in the system and it will not fully disengage the clutch. As for the 750, they have cable clutches and you just need to adjust the slack of the cable.
SOURCE: no clutch pressure.
Your clutch lever should have a cable connected to it. Trace it from the lever down to the engine and make sure nothing is disconnected or out of place. That big knurled knob next to the lever is the adjusment and locknut for cable tension. Loosen lock nut, srew cable away from lever until you have only 1/4 " of play between lever and the stop. You should feel tension coming back into the lever...If you have a bicycle ,it is the same drill for adjusting your brakes...look and see...it may help you understand the process...any bicycle mech can show you...maybe a neighbor...Good Luck to you friend....Tim
SOURCE: i have a suzuki rm 125 1994 model when i pull the
Adjust the clutch cable to allow about 1/4" free play at the end of the clutch handle. Don't put the bike in gear until the rpms are near idle speed. The clutch is working fine if the bike does not lurch forward when going into gear at idle speed. Dirty, gritty oil in the gearbox can make the clutch grab. Consider changing oil if grabbing is the problem. The "crunch" you hear is the slider gear engaging into the driven gear. The higher the engine speed when being put into gear the louder the crunch. The slider gear engaging "dogs" can break. Crunching into gear is hard on the gears.
Post a comment to let me know how you come out on this.
SOURCE: 96 rm 250 clutch not working
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Look at the clutch diagram on the Babbit's site. Chances are that the "E" ring #14 was not put on the clutch rack #13 that the pinion shaft #16 engages to pull the pressure plate #8 outward, disengaging the clutch. Without the E-ring the rack can fall inside the clutch and is unable to pull the clutch plates apart. This is likely to be where the problem is. By the way, look at the sequence all the parts are to be installed in. Does your clutch assembly match that sequence? Let me know what you find.
I don't get paid for my answers. I am only trying to help. I do take pride in them. So if you will, > > > > A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks
SOURCE: clutch
Hi, you might find the nut holding the clutch basket onto the shaft has come loose, so instead of pulling the clutch plates apart you are just pulling the clutch basket along the shaft.
or if the bike has sat for a while you might find the clutch plates have stuck together, this isn't that rare, you can start the bike and roll it along at about 1st gear speed,
then click it into gear,
then pull the clutch in and rev the engine, this should make the plates loose again.
hope this helps, please rate, thanks, good luck
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Eh.. it's not a Suzuki. It's a 2000 Harley-Davidson Softail Deuce.. How can I delete the question or change the product?...
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