Question about Hotpoint RGB745 Gas Kitchen Range

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Gas range i have a hot point gas range model #rgb526pe1ad. I have changed igniter and safety valve . the igniter lights up ,but oven still do not work.

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Re: gas range

Hi ,
Gas in insuffecient , clean the nozzle at back cover , take a small neddle push the the hole of nozzle . Thank You

Posted on Dec 29, 2007

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Whatdoes an oven igniter do as opposed to the oven bake igniter?

Initors work with oven safety valves and open gas safety valves when the amp draw changes as the ignitor heats up. Ig niters light the flame and then become a thermocouple and send back confirmation of ignition to the central control. The model above uses a glow bar ignitor which is wired in series with the oven control and safety valve. The most common mistake when diagnosing the ignitor is working is you see it glowing. But that does not mean it is strong enough to open the bi-metal inside the gas safety valve which requires a minimum of 3.5 amps to bend the bi-metal so it will release gas to the burner. -PawPaw.

Dec 12, 2013 | Amana ACF3355 Gas Kitchen Range

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Oven won't start

Very interesting. The ignitor is working, so that means you have power and the control is working. The safety valve is working, and you have a complete circuit. So why won' t she fire off? Inside the safety valve is a bi-metal that only opens if the resistance is right. The resistance only changes when the ignitor is on. As it gets hotter it changes in resistance. This allows the gas safety valve to release the gas and ignite. Watch this:

May 07, 2010 | Frigidaire FGF326AS Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?

If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from
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Jan 26, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Oven will not light

When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve
-- defective gas valve coils

Oct 16, 2009 | Magic Chef 31000 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Hi i have a kemore gas range that the bake ingiter or broil won`t

The igniter in the oven does not spark. It heats up and glows red hot until enough current opens the safety gas valve to the burner. It is not associated with the stovetop burners. Replace the oven igniter itself.

Aug 11, 2009 | Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen...

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Gas Oven does not work.

Here's the deal about those igniters. They get "weak". See? That safety valve is there to monitor how much current (amps) is flowing through the igniter. Once the correct amperage is satisfied, the safety valve "knows" that the igniter is hot enough to ignite gas so it opens up and allows gas to flow through the manifold.

The reason you can tap the valve to light the gas is that the valve is almost ready to open anyway. You just send it over the top by tapping it. So, the fix for this one is to replace the igniter. All your troubles will be gone then... well... not "all", but the oven will work! Here's the igniter or you can use this one...a universal igniter and cheaper, too!). Hopefully, you have an appliance parts place locally, if not you can get it online.

Hope this helped!


Apr 05, 2009 | Tappan TGF657 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

The oven doesn't work ,the ignator doesn't light up. no gas coming

The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.

So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.

Nov 02, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers


Often times you will have problems with the gas thermostat and not necessarily with the safety valve. Once you have lit the pilot light, turn the oven knob to any temperature. The pilot light should get bigger in size of flame. If not, the thermostat that controls the oven must be replaced. If the pilot light does get bigger, but the stove does not ignite, it is the safety valve.

Nov 12, 2007 | GE JGBS07PEAWW Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Tappan - Model 36-3052-23

I suspect you may have a bad igniter. They will still glow nice and hot, but if they are weak the gas valve will not open. This is actually a safety feature. Depending on which type you have, the glow bar igniter is supposed to draw a certain current potential before the gas valve will open. Here's the current readings for both types: Round Glow Bar: 2.7 to 3.2 amps Square Glow Bar: 3.2 to 3.7 amps I would try to to determine if the igniter is good or bad before proceeding with a gas valve replacement. Generally, the igniter is a common fail item. Let me know if this helps.

Sep 06, 2007 | Tappan MGF500PBW Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Oven burner delays too much to light

Zanes, Your oven igniter is getting weak. The glowing bar next to the manifold must draw between 2.7 and 3.3 amps before the safety valve will acknowledge that it's actually hot enough to ignite gas and open up. Your igniter is most likely right at ~2.5 amps and the valve is "wanting" to open, but won't without some persuasion (hammer anyone?). The part number for your igniter is 9753108 and is available. Your local appliance parts house may not carry it, but there is a substitute that they WILL carry. Its' part number is WB2x9998. It's a universal flat igniter. Unplug the oven before repairing it, OK?

Aug 01, 2007 | KitchenAid KGRT607 Gas Kitchen Range

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