SOURCE: water leak, back of washing machine during rinse or drain cycle.
The back panel does not come off. You need to remove the outer casing in order to access the internal components. The following steps explain how:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
With the case removed, you should now have full access to all the internal components and be able to complete a thorough inspection. If the leak is coming from the rear of the washer, check your water inlet valve and associated hoses. Inspect the tub ring where the water dispenses into the wash basket and make sure it is not cracked, or has any loose hoses. If you need assistance in determining where the leak may be coming from, please let me know.
To reassemble the washer, perform the following steps:
1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
If you have any questions along the way, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
SOURCE: Washing Machine Keeps Filling with Water through Detergent dispen
This machine has a water valve that works on vaccuum from the tub. You will see a small clear hose that runs from the side of the tub up to this valve. This valve is adjustable to change the water level in the tub to desired setting on some machines, but if it goes bad, it will not shut off, thus overflowing the tub. Find this valve and replace it if adjustment does not work.
SOURCE: Whirlpool heavy duty super capacity plus machine slow to fill.
This problem is commonly attributed to a water inlet valve that has become clogged with sediment or calcium deposits over time. If you live in an area that has hard water, or if you use well water, this is a common problem. You can remove the valve and attempt to clean it by soaking it in a 50/50 solution of distilled vinegar and water, or you can simply replace it all together. If you're going to go the route of removing the valve, it makes better sense to replace it, rather possibly having to repeat the steps again if cleaning the valve doesn't work. The following link explains how to access and replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575881-replacing_water_inlet_valve_on_whirlpool
Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
I have found these sites to be reputable and provide great service. Prices differ between them, so shop and compare. If you do not wish to order parts on line, look up the part numbers on the Sears site and check with your nearest appliance parts retailer. These is a common part that may be commonly found in their in-store inventory. The average cost is about $30 - $35.
If you DO wish to attempt to clean the valve to save some money, submerge the valve in a 50/50 solution of distilled vinegar and hot water for about 30 minutes and flush with clean water. DO NOT submerge the electrical connections.
You may also try any number of calcium, lime and scale removers on the market. CLR comes to mind as a good product, but use in a well ventilated area. It has some very strong fumes.
If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.
Testimonial: "Great advice. I will follow your clear and easy steps. Sounds like one or the other solution will be fine."
SOURCE: Kenmore 90 heavy duty top load washer won't agitate
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
SOURCE: What capacity is a Kenmore Elite, king size, heavy
3.8 cu ft
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