Broken copper tubing extension

You may be forced to cut the copper pipe and buy a new compression fitting and ferrule and add it to the cut off end of the copper tubing when you decide to re-hookup the refrigerator.
Remember to cut the pipe , if you choose to do so, with a tubing cutter so as not to "smash" the cut end.
This problem can happen any time dissimilar metals are joined, they can "freeze" together.
God bless your efforts.

use pipe cutter to lop off end and sand the last 2-3 inches down with abrasive sand cloth. if you never braised before, i would recomend sharkbite plumbing fittings. comes in 1/2", which is what it looks like you have. it slides onto existing pipe (copper, pvc, cpvc and pex) and makes a seal, while the teeth inside keep it from coming off. there is a ring on the end that you can push in with a specific tool (which comes with some fittings) to remove it. they have extentions, valves, couplings and terminations in sharkbite. they sell them at any home depot. good luck and have fun

if this is for ice maker this is how its done. run the line through the floor in back of fridge to a cold water pipe. closest to where fridge sits.

Turn off the cold water supply to the pipes.

Attach a pipe clamp to the cold water pipe.

Screw a packing nut into the cold water pipe. Turn the packing nut until it punctures and taps into the pipe. Attach ¼-inch copper tubing to the outlet valve on the packing nut using a compression nut. Make certain the valve is closed before you secure the packing nut.

Attach the copper tubing to the intake connection using a compression nut. to back of fridge,

Turn on the cold water supply.

Turn on the outlet valve on the packing nut.

the kit should have directions with it. good-day !

If you secure the pipes properly, nothing should knock. Long straight runs may cause water hammer, but address that only if necessary when you are done.

Gary

Hello,

Find your route to the water line. Drill a hole in the floor behind the refrigerator and thread the copper tubing into the basement. Go to the basement and find the main water line and pull the copper tubing to it.

Step 2
Attach pipe to refrigerator. Go back up to the kitchen and attach the end of the copper tubing to the water pipe of the refrigerator. You can use a nut and ferrule to connect the tube to the fridge. Make sure to leave a little bit of copper tubing coiled behind the fridge so as to not disconnect the tubing when moving the fridge.

Step 3
Turn off the water. With the fridge all hooked up, go back to the basement and turn off the water. Find the cold water pipe and drill a 1/4-inch hole to accommodate the copper tubing.

Step 4
Attach valve to pipe. You need to attach the water valve to the main pipe. This allows you to control the flow of water to the refrigerator. Make sure you have a gasket to seal between the valve and main water pipe.

Step 5
Connect the copper tubing. With the valve connected to the main water pipe, connect the copper tubing using a clamp. This should be everything you need. Turn on the main water and you should be able to get a glass of water, but it will take an hour or two for the ice cubes to freeze.

Take care..

local plumbing supply will have the parts u need 3/8 copper tubing and nut,ferrels.u may have to buy a replacement check valve without the slip fitting that came standard.it sound like a c h setup.

Icemakers are 1/4 inch and I recommend getting plastic tubing (won't break like copper and a hell of a lot cheaper)

no the coating cannot be repaired, because the coating is heat resistant and anything u put on will not adhere or be heat resistant enough, a silicon auto sealant may last for while but not likely to last long, u cannot solder as to high a heat will ruin core, had a though there is a cold copper solder solvent for fusing copper pipes if u wrapped with this copper tubing and cold soldered it might work it works on hot water copper pipes. If u try this and it works please keep me posted on this my email is [email protected]

check cooling coil(in door unit)if there ice buil up then feel air vent if no air mean your fin block aready need to clean / air vent ok meant there have a leak .you need r22 test gauge and hose,reamer,tube cutter and flaring kit. 1)check suction pressure(big tube at out door unit) remove 2 way cap and 3 way cap valve then connect blue hose at service port 3 way valve (port locate at left or right depent on manufacturer) you will get pressure about 40-45 psi(air cond is running) then use a allen key(hexagonal wrench) to close 2 way valve(small tube or gas discharge side) wait 1-2 minute then close 3 way valve (suction tube or big tube) IMMEDIATELY SHUT OFF AIRCOND AND PLUG OUT POWER CORD (you need 2 person one at in door unit and the other at out door unit). this method is to keep remaining gas inside the compresser.Then leak check ,open 2 way valve about 90 degree hold it for 10 minute then close it .MEASURE THE PRESSURE keeep it for 5-10 minute. If the pressure indicate not same during the first time measured it meant there have a leakage, for air cond 1- 5 year the leakage will happen at the copper tubing connection and improper flaring .Then U need to clean in door and out door unit ,used a spanner or wrench to losen the copper FLARE NUT at out door unit and in door unit( inside insulation) then use pvc tape to cover all copper pipe/tube hole to prevent dirt go inside tube/pipe. Then lift up out door unit and used coil cleanner ditergent wait 5 minute then flush with water. Remove indoor front panel then disconnect out door unit cable at front panel in door unit then lift up indoor unit to disangage the hook and pull out the indoor unit, then clean the cooling coil ,cover electrical part with plastic .last step u need to cut (used cooper cutter)the copper pipe/tube FLARE NUT connection low side(big tube) and high side(small tube) in door connection and out door connection .Then u need to remove the burr from cut edge using reamer make sure metal powder not goes in Then make a flare after inserting FLARE NUT onto the copper pipes Then U can install back the unit check the low side pressure if the pressure 55-67 psi no need to charge

Assuming that this is the external connection from the house plumbing to the machine...


The pipe will have to be cut cleanly with a tubing cutter and the ferrule and nut will have to be replaced with new ones. There should be a brass nut attached to the water valve where the water line normally connects. Unscrew this nut and take it to Home Depot (or local plumber) , they will have all the necessary parts for you, including the tubing cutter.