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Be sure to remove the wires from each component. Before testing for continuity. If all the components have continuity and you have power to the unit then you need to take a look at the timer. The large red wire going into the timer at the RH leg is probably wank. To verify you move the timer to different locals and test for continuity from RH to any other terminal on that timer. If you cannot get a reading then replace the timer.
Begin by verifying your input voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240 VAC across the two hot leads (the left and right slots in the receptacle). If good, remove the back cover over the terminal block of the dryer (where the power cord is installed) and plug the dryer back in. Take a reading across the RED and BLACK wires at the terminal block. If good, your problem is in the heating circuitry. If bad, you have a bad power cord.
The reason I mention the input voltage is because many people assume it is good if the dryer drum is still spinning. The drive motor which turns the drum, however, only uses half the input voltage because it runs off 110-120 VAC. The heating circuits require the full 220 service in order to operate. If you are missing a portion of the source voltage, the dryer will exhibit the same problems you describe.
Read through the link I provided and pay particular attention to the section that discusses proper dryer ventilation. Most dryer heat related problems are actually caused by poor ventilation causing the dryer to overheat to the point of failure. If you haven't cleaned your ventilation ducting anytime recently, now might be a good time. Leaving a dryer in a clogged or poorly ventilated condition will cause repeated failures of any components you might be replacing.
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse, then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above. If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website: davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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Hi vnic516...Here is a little more info for your thermo problem.
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity) If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. (Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website: davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity) If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. (Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website: davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity) If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. (Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website: davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity) If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. (Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website: davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity) If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. (Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. For further instructions on how to replace the element go to the following website: davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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Could be either the heating element or the thermostat/s.
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity) If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. (Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. This is a FREE answer, Please rate me
unplug dryer , remove back panel and you will see a thermo link in about the middle of the back of dryer with a vom test continuity of the link this is a very common problem . if no continuity replace thermo kink . if it tests good remove access pane in front of dryer and turn the dryer on to a heat cycle, see if the ignitor coil gets red hot. if it doesn't then the ceramic coil is bad. these are the 2 most common problems with gas dryers. if still no good write back
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