The bolt on the right front control arm that holds the bottom end of the shock broke off. IT appears to be riveted into the control arm. Is there a way to remove it and replace it with a bolt or do I have to replace the entire contorl arm?

• arms are a great upgrade if you lift your Jeep and plan to take it off road. These larger control arms are much stronger than the factory ones and if you get adjustable arms you can set you caster or pinion angle where it needs to be. For this install we went with Rock Krawlers upper and lower, front and rear control arms. The quality on these arms is phenomenal and the adjustable sides feature a rebuildable spherical joint. Made from solid alloy steel they come with an Abuse Proof Lifetime warranty.

First we got our Jeep up on the lift and took off the front wheels. We found it easiest to do one control arm at a time and we started with the front lower arms first. We put a jack stand for auto lifts under the axle to support the axle and allow minimal movement once the arms are removed. Use a 21mm socket and wrench to remove the two bolts holding in the lower control arm. One bolt at the bottom and one at the top.
Once the stock control arm was out we got our new lower arms and made them the exact same length.

Since this Jeep has a 2.5 inch lift the only arms we will make longer are the rear uppers which ill explain later. With the lower control arms the correct length we went ahead and installed the new one. Installation is just the opposite of the removal.
Repeat the same procedure for the opposite side.
Now for the front uppers, which is actually a little more difficult. To make the removal of the uppers easier we found removal of the bottom track bar bolt, bottom shock bolts and coil springs allows the process to go much faster. The bottom shock bolts are 13mm and the bottom track bar bolt is either a torx or a hex bolt.
Once those are out you can work the front springs out.
Now to remove the upper control arms, again one side at a time. You will use a15mm socket to remove both the bolts holding in the upper arms.
Once the first upper arm is out we again made the uppers the same length as the stock ones. Install the new upper arm and repeat on the other side.
With the new upper arms in reinstall the springs, shocks and bottom bolt of the track bar. Now on to the rear.
The rear install is very similar to the front. With the Jeep in the air we again used a jack stand for auto lifts to support the axle. We started with the rear bottom control arms. There are brackets on the stock control arms holding on the e-bake line, remove them first with a 13mm socket.
Now you can remove a bottom control arm held in by 2 bolts with a 21mm socket.
After the control arm was out we made both the new lower arms the same length and installed the new ones. Repeat same procedure for the other side.
Next were the rear upper control arms and setting our rear pinion angle. The same as all the other arms, 2 bolts holding in the arms and the uppers can be removed with a 15mm socket.
However, this time we removed both arms and lowered the Jeep off the lift. With the Jeep sitting at on the ground at ride height we can now set our pinion angle.
The upper arms need to be lengthened slightly in order to rotate the rear axle pinion up. Since my Wrangler is equipt with a CV driveshaft and has coil springs you want the angle of the driveshaft to be the exact same angle as the axle yoke. Earlier model Jeeps with leaf springs you will actually want to set the pinion several degrees below the driveshaft to accommodate axle wrap that causes the axle to lift upwards when power is applies. Some people can eyeball the correct angles, if not use a angle finder. With the pinion angle correct make the upper arms the right length to hold that angle then your good to install them.

Double check to make sure any bolts removed are torqued to the correct specs for your year Wrangler and grease any fittings necessary. Once that is all done youre ready to hit the traill, enjoy!
Tags:
Jeep Wrangler (TJ)
Build Ups
How to
Lift Kits & Suspension

crazy glue

Beat on the spindle that holds lower control to the lower spindle while prying the lower control arm down this will loosen the lower ball joint spindle. If there is a lock bolt take it out. Grind the rivets off in the lower ball joint. The new one comes with bolts to replace it (not rivets)

General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

A Ball Joint Can Usually Be Replaced Without Removing The Control Arm From The Vehicle. Place The Vehicle On Jack Stands. Remove The Shock Absorber And Install A Spring Compressor on The Coil Spring.Remove The Nut Securing The Ball Joint To The steering Knuckle And Separate The Knuckle And Then Joint. The Ball Joint Should Be Pressed,Riveted,Bolted,Or Screwed Into The Control Arm.A Service Manual Will Give The Details For The Specific Make And Model Vehicle.

You'll need to remove the wheel. If it's 2 wheel drive, you'll need to hold the upper stud and remove the retaining nut, and bushings associated with it. On the bottom of the control arm you'll see 2 bolts that need removed, the shock will drop out. If it's 4 wheel drive, there will be an upper bolt and nut to remove, same for the bottom of the shock.

Jack the car up and block it under the frame so the front wheel is clear. Remove the wheel. You should be able to see where the shock comes out of the upper control arm. Usuallt the shaft will turn when you try to remove the nut so use a pair of Vise Grips and hold the shaft at the top where it is squared off and a box end wrench to turn the nut off. Undo the 2 bolts at the lower control arm and the shock will fall out. Don't worry if the bolts break, they are just regular Grade 5 bolts.
installation is the reverse. The new shock willhave to be compressed to get the bottom bolts started. Just be sure that the top shaft is in the hole before you do. Hope this helps.

This is for the 2WD model:

2-Wheel Drive

1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jack stands.
   
2. Using an open end wrench, hold the shock absorber upper stem to prevent it from turning, then remove the upper stem retaining nut, the retainer and rubber grommet.
   

Common front shock absorber mounting-2WD vehicles

1. Remove the shock absorber-to-lower control arm retaining bolts and lower the shock absorber assembly from the bottom of the control arm.
   
2. Inspect and test the shock absorber; replace it, if necessary.
   

To install:

1. Fully extend the shock absorber stem, then push it up through the lower control arm and spring so that the upper stem passes through the mounting hole in the upper control arm frame bracket.
   
2. Install the upper shock absorber nut and tighten to 100 inch. lbs. (11 Nm) on 1994 models 145 inch lbs. (16 Nm) on 1995 models, 54 ft. lbs. (73 Nm) on 1996 models, or 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm) on 1997-99 models while holding the stem with an open end wrench. Be careful not to crush the rubber bushing.
   
3. Install the shock absorber-to-lower control arm retaining bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) on 1994-95 models and 54 ft. lbs. (73 Nm) on 1996 models, or 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) on 1997-99 models.
   
4. Remove the jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle.
   

You should have 1 or 2 bolts under the rear end for the rear shocks. Also, the top bolt is above the frame of the rear. For the front, there is 1 bolt above the upper spring mount which you can access with the wheel off. The bottom 2 bolts are under the lower control arm.

NOTE Hold the shock absorber stem with a wrench while backing the nut off.
Wheel Mounting nut


Retaining nut and grommet Shock absorber-to-lower control arm bolts Shock absorber Replace the parts, as necessary.

Fig. Front shock absorber mounting-2WD vehicles


To install:

1. Fully extend the shock absorber stem, then push it up through thelower control arm and spring so that the upper stem passes through themounting hole in the upper control arm frame bracket.
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   Retaining nut and grommet on the stem. Tighten the nut to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
   
   
   Shock absorber-to-lower control arm bolts and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) Wheel