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Re: I need a new front element for a tokina 12-24mm,...
Do you have a lens collimator and other equipment needed to ensure proper alignment of the element? If you don't, send the lens back to Tokina and have them replace the element.
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Most top elements are just a plug in.. find where the element joins the body of the stove and firmly pull on the element straight back from that point. MAKE SURE THE POWER TO THE STOVE IS TURNED OFF AT THE BREAKER
Unless you have a lens collimator and other equipment needed to ensure proper alignment when reassembling the lens, take it to a good camera shop and have a properly trained and equipped professional clean it.
Perhaps. Tokina makes lenses with a variety of mounts. If the lens already has an m4/3 mount then you won't need an adapter at all. Some Tokina lenses take the "universal" T-mount. In this case remove the current mount and put on an m4/3 mount. If it has some other fixed mount, m4/3 adapters are available for some of them. It all goes back to the mount already on the lens.
Okay...what you have is a dual element with the 6 inch coil burned out. Yes, this is repairable, but unfortunately, since this is a dual element, it is sold as one assembly. The part number for a replacement is WB30T10044, and you can find it at repairclinic.com for about $90 (repairclinic item number 824238). I know it isn't cheap, but it beats having to pay for a service call, or buying a new appliance.
If you wish to repair this yourself, you can do so by following these steps:
1. UNPLUG the range before servicing. There are dangerous voltages still present even with burners turned off. 2. There are a few screws located under the front edge of the cook top. You will need to open the oven door to see them. Remove these screws and the top should lift up. If the range is not equipped with any kind of hinge supports, the top will have to be propped up. 3.On some ranges, there is a disconnect plug for the surface element wiring harness. If you have this feature, unplug the wire harness from the connector and follow these steps:
a. Unplug the cook top and leave the elements in place. b. Place the whole cook top assembly face-down on a soft surface (like some old towels, or a blanket). c. Remove the affected surface element. Take note of the numbered positions where the mounting screws are located and locations of the wires. You may want to write down the numbered positions and the wire color codes. HINT: A good digital camera can save you time if you have one. You will need to install the new element in the same manner. d. Install new element (upside down). Handle the surface elements with care. They are very fragile. Care also must be taken not to handle the element coils or ceramic material. Try to handle from the underside of the element only. Oil from your hands can cause damage to the element and/or premature failure. e. Re-install the cook top back on the range and you are DONE.
NOTE: If your range does NOT have a disconnect plug on the wiring harness you will need to perform the repairs with the cooktop propped up, and install the surface element assembly from underneath. A helpful hint: Use some duct tape to hold the element secure until you have it screwed back into place. Don't forget to remove the duct tape when completed. Once completed, lower the cook top and secure with screws.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have require additional assistance.
Barrel distortion like you describe can always be a problem, especially at ultra-wide focal lengths like yours at 12mm. Some of this can be compensated for in software... Adobe Photoshop CS2 and Elements do a reasonable job, IMO, Bibble Pro (www.bibblelabs.com) does even better, especially with the 3rd party plugins like Percy perspective correction. These are things we have to live with when we have smaller sensors and ultra-wide angle lenses. There is nothing wrong with your lens, you will probably find that this distortion is minimized if you use a longer focal length (say 14mm) and/or stop down the lens a bit.. try f8, wide angle lenses have huge depth of field.
A: Your local (specialist) camera shop should be able to look at that for you. But it could be that nothing is wrong and you would be wasting your time because:
B: Searching through other forums, it seems that Tokina's official stance is that it is not designed for digital cameras. eg www.dyxum.com/reviews/lenses/reviews.asp?IDLens=182
Unless you have extensive experience, this is best left to professionals. If you didn't spend much, then you could "learn" on it, but if it is something you really value...don't do it.
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