FINDING WHERE TO PLUG IN THE usb CABLE CONNECTIONS

A mains cable is $5.80

https://www.newegg.ca/c2g-6-ft-black-power/p/N82E16812196313?item=N82E16812196313

There are only 3 connections on that, live neutral and ground. The wire on the other end or the mains transformer has a single plug with live and neutral as shown here. Not sure where you are finding 7 wires?
https://www.battdepot.com/ca/model/notebook+adapter/compaq/presario+cq56-200sg/ac19v90k3.aspx

Don't start messing with the motherboard connection over $5.80. Head down to Goodwill, you find them for $2 complete.

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Question moves from Cameras to Routers.
Rebecca found the same site as I did :>D

Q: What is the difference between G-140W-MD and G-140W-MH? A: They are both Nokia chip solution; but G-140W-MH has external antenna while G-140W-MD has built-in antenna.
Jan 27, 2021

G-140W-MH - Thunder-link.com

https://www.thunder-link.com > g-140w-mh
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What is the difference between G-140W-MD and G-140W-MH? - Fixya

https://www.fixya.com > Forum > Cameras
... but G-140W-MH has external antenna while G-140W-MD has built-in antenna. ... And the MD11 is a totally different airplane hence its own type rating.

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G-140W-Mh Nokia 2.4G WiFi Gpon Ont ONU Wireless 1ge 3fe 1tel 1USB G-140W-MD G-140W-Mh · 1.Plug-and-play (PnP): Internet, IPTV and VoIP services can be deployed ...
Ports: 1GE 3FE 1TEL 1USB WiFi
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Optical Connector: SC / UPC
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This thermostat is a DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) type meaning it will switch BOTH pairs of wires either ON or OFF. It is a type used primarily for 220 - 240 volt circuits and can switch up to 22 amps of load current. Most heaters will provide a wattage rating and some also provide a current rating as well. Since most electric heat circuits are connected to a 2 pole 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker (or fuses) via #12 copper wires it should work well. If connected to a circuit greater than 20 amps - as long as the heaters connected to the circuit do not draw more than 22 amps will also work fine.

If all is well so far, the continue. The thermostat should have 4 wires. Two of one color, two of another (black and red are common colors). One color group will be the LINE (powered) side, and the other group is the LOAD (heater) side. You should verify WHICH color group is which for best results. The switch will open and close a connection between the LINE wires and the LOAD wires.

The thermostat should be installed in an electrical switch box located on an interior wall at about 5 feet high and not above any heater or heat source. Do not locate it behind a door that swings open, etc. The box should be supplied by a circuit from the electrical panel that will connect to the LINE side color group wires *and* a circuit that will extend from the thermostat's LOAD color group wires to the heater's wire connections / terminals.

If running common #12/2 (for a 20 amp circuit breaker) or #14/2 (for a 15 amp circuit breaker) romex cable from the panel will have the Black and White wires connected to the thermostat's LINE wires and the Black and White wires in the #12/2 or #14/2 romex cable from the heater will be connected to the thermostat's LOAD wires. The ground wires will connect to each other AND a short length of the same size wire should be run from this same point to each: the ground terminal screw of the thermostat and (if using a metal electrical box) to the electrical switch box with a separately purchased green ground screw designed specifically for this purpose. Plastic boxes are not grounded.

Leave a comment if you have other questions & good luck!

Wiring contact problem! Find the group of wires under the dashboard that supply the panel. Look for plug-in adapters on the wire run and disconnect them and reconnect them several times. Also look for ground screws that go to this harness and loosten and then tighten the connections yo the chassis ground points. Viberation of off-road vehicles is commonplace...have fun!

There should be a group of screw terminals. They should say pos or (+), remote, and ground, GND, or (-). This is the power terminal. The power from the battery goes to the (+), the remote turn one (thin wire) goes to the one labeled remote (usually inbetween the ground and power wires), and the ground to the (-). RCA jacks should be labeled input and output. Plug the appropriate colors in the input ones. The speaker terminals are labeled left and right + and -. If it is a 4 channel amp, it will also have front and rear. Depending how you wired your speakers is how they will go to the amp. Follow the speaker wires to the appropriate prongs positive or negative. Hope this helps.

you will need to take out your motherboard manual and look thru it for the usb header and audio header for the correct pinout in order to plug those in

Hi,,

ok lets see if i can help you out here
basically IDE 1+2 Is primary and 3+4 is secondary, it doesnt matter where you donnect your harddrive to it will still work ,, the standered is to use 1 and 2

as for the frount usb aint working is cause they are not connected or the wires are mixed up.. basically you can connect the wires to any usb section of the mainboard as long as you connect it propperly.
each wire is labeled and the bord is labelled as well. for example connect ground to ground, v++ to v++, +5 to +5 and -5 to *5 there is a diagram on the manual showing the connection ports location and pin id's it also labebled on the main board.

I finally found a solution, on a dead page in google cache only:
http://www.pcclub.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=27%26threadid=16567
The solution was posted by JontyBonkers.


The pins go like this:
1 2 3 4 5
_ 6 7 _ 8

1 = ground
2 = ground
3 = D1-
4 = ground
5 = D1+
6 = D2-
7 = D2+
8 = +5V

It seems that the case for those Packard-Bells had a small circuit board that divided the 5V line to both sockets.

D- are usually white, D+ - green, 5V - red, ground - black

Look at the plug wires. On the 4 prong plug, it should be labeled which ones are neutral. Some plugs even come with a diagram stating which wires lead where. Back to the plug itself, rule of thumb, the flattest part of the plug goes to the block, so lay the connections on the ground where they lay flat on the floor, left loop will got to left side of powerblock, right loop to the right side, the other 2 are used for a ground. look at the specs for the dryer also.

first: the cord: The green is chassis ground. The white is neutral (a ground from the power company) .. red and black are 'hot'. Never plug this in until the installation is complete.

On the dryer, these are labeled as well. Install a strain relief clamp and nut on the wire setting up to go through the box knockout... nut on the inside of the box...you'll tighten it after you make up the connections. Match up the blacks and reds. The others may be installed so the neutral and the ground are both connected to the same point if not separately labeled. If one of the points just goes to the chassis (there may be what looks like an arrow made up of 4 horizontal lines pointing down on the label)...hook the green there. Install the white to the other terminal...again it is called neutral. Make all connections tight. If the motor works when you start the timer...you're in business.