Where do I get a replacement sheath

Only thing different between all cables for bike is the lead stopper at lever end. Tell bike shop cable is for gears and type, lever or twist grip,and type of bike(mountain/BMX etc)for length and you shouldnt have any probs,*ALT* take lever end of cable to varify lead piece is the same.
Your sheath on cable might be damaged-which caused cable to brake. Complete cable and sheath only cost about $3.
Spray a fair bit of WD40/RP7 or similar down sheath before inserting cable for smoother operation.

Hi, Replacing the rca plug at the end of the cable is just a matter of splicing the wires correctly. The wire is actually a 2 wire line, almost directly under the black outer casing will be the ground wire ( is actually going to be totally wrapped around the center wire ) this will be evident if you look at the cross section where you cut the cord. The replacement end can be purchased at the local Radio Shack, less than $3 probably for a pack of 2. When stripping the casing from the cord be carful not to cut away too much of ground wire sheath ( this may lead to difficulty in attaching new end ) it is almost inevitable to have a few strands of wire cut loose. The next step is to sort of " part " the outer sheathing, then kind of wrap both halves around the inner conductor as close to where you stripped outer sheathing away as possible. Next strip away the inner wires sheathing and you have the two ends to either solder, if you know how to, or tie through the holes of the replacement rca plugs leads. I hope this was of enough help and thank you for asking FixYa, Good luck-Prodzilla

Probably its the bushing it the speedometer. Look where the cable spins in the speedometer...and where the cable sheath screws on.
You need to get some light grease sparingly into the space between the rotating head and the stationary part...I use white grease on my fingertip to push some in.. If the bushing is dry....it slows down the rotating head and the cable starts twisitng till it snaps. Normally a dry bushing starts making noise though.

When you say you replaced the cable....you meant the cable and the outer sheath correct....if the cable only was replaced there may be an issue in the sheath that is snagging the cable.

I have a DLC7pro from around 1982 that I just replaced the sheath on.

To remove the sheath I use a small pipe cutter and took the sheath off in approximately ½ inch sections. Once the circular cut was complete I used a plier to pull off the section. - This method worked GREAT! Be sure you get ALL of the white plastic off and be sure to remove the ½ inch brass "ring" which is part of the old sheath. Also, make sure no plastic "crumbs" are in the base of the shaft where the new sheath will sit. You will see that the metal shaft has a flat side. With a sharpie marker, mark the metal shaft near the base to indicate where the center of the flat side is.

When you look at the replacement sheath, you will notice flat sides on the outside of the sheath. If you look inside the sheath, you will see two "nubs", these nubs form a flat inner side of the sheath . Unfortunately these nubs do NOT line up with the flat outside sections. Use a sharpie marker to mark the center point of the two inner nubs. The inner flat side HAS to match up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft. The marker helps you do that.

Line the inner flat side of the sheath up with the flat side of the metal shaft and push the sheath on your hand as far as it will go. It should go about an inch from the base.
Put the base on a mat on the floor ( you don't want to damage your floor) . Next you will need a hammer, piece of 2x4 wood and BRUTE STRENGHT! - Please note that once you hammer this, even just one strike and the sheath will NOT come off. Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath. Using more force than you think you should need - strike the wood to hammer the sheath all the way down. It should take 3 - 5 very hard strikes. If the base of the sheath rubs on the bottom of your workbowl - they will fuse together, so be sure the sheath is seated as far down as you can get it. Again, it takes a LOT

Cable may be seizing in the sheath due to corrosion. Remove the drums to see if shoes move outward when someone pulls the lever. If not, remove the cables from the shoes, raise the ends, and shoot oil into the sheath. Break the cable loose inside the sheath and continue oiling until the cable moves freely in the sheath.

The shaft is spinning inside the sleeve. So is should not be hard to remove. With a DLC-7SP, I grabbed the spindle with some pliers, channel locks might do well and put a handle of a screwdriver between the pliers and the top deck and pried. Second attempt and it pulled up easily. Place the screwdriver beside one of the top deck screw covers to transfer force directly to the motor. Otherwise top deck would probably break.

Clean the old shaft to remove any contamination.

New one can be driven on with a hammer and block of wood.

Remove the steering wheel and replace the directional switch

I had the same problem: Cuisinart sent a "replacement" sheath for my DLC-8E which turned out to be the wrong one. When I replaced mine,which was cracked, none of my blades would fit over the new sheath! I "solved" the problem by purchasing a new DLC-8E motor base on Ebay for only $9.99!

I have a DLC 7 pro circa 1982 - just replaced the sheath. First - remove old sheath - I found that using a plumbers pipe cutter to cut old sheath off in sections then pulling each section off with pliers works great. Make sure ALL the plastic comes off the metal shaft - as well as the brass ring portion of the sheath.

Next use a sharpie marker to mark the the "flat" side of the shealth = you must look inside the sheath, find the 2 "nubs" that form a "flat" side. These nubs must line up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft - mark the base of the shaft as well so you can more easily line up the flat of the sheath with the flat side of the shaft (and no, the flat outer sides of the the sheath do not match up with the flat inside section of the sheath - that would make life too easy!)

Press the new sheath on with your hand as far as it goes - should go down to about 1 inch from the base.

Now you need a hammer, piece of 2 x4 wood and brute strenght! (keep in mind that once you hammer it - even once - it will NOT come off) Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath - Use a LOT of force to hammer the sheath all the way down. will probably take 3 - 5 good strikes. It will take much more force than you think you should need to use. Make sure the base of shaft is as far down as possible - if it rubs against the workbowl while spinning it will fuse to the bowl! Good luck! -

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Generic problem for all Vacuums
How to replace sheath
Posted by ellie_pesca on Jul 27, 2008
How to replace sheath cord on Electrolux
Hello,
I would advise you to ALWAYS to FIRST UNPLUG YOUR VACUUM before beginning any service procedure. Just bring in a sample of the Electrolux sheath cord to your local vacuum cleaner dealer in your area and chances are he will have the part to replace the sheath cord for the Electrolux. Or you can contact the Electrolux factory website or the cust serv line and supply them with the brand name and model # of the vacuum and they can either send it out to you or let you know where you can get one. So if you need further assistance, please feel free to contact your local vacuum cleaner dealer in your area or in the yellow pages, or contact the factory phone number or website to further assist you with your questions.
http://electrolux.com/ Customer Service 1-800-896-9756
Electrolux Home Care Products – North America
P.O. Box 3900 Peoria, IL 61612
Thanks, Don the Vac Man
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