Need to adjust brake/clutch 14hp craftsman lawn tractor

The manual bypass valve lever on a Craftsman 247.288852 lawn tractor with an MTD 918-04566 fluid drive transmission is typically located on the rear of the transmission, near the pulley. You may need to remove the rear cover to access it. Look for a small lever or knob that can be turned or pulled to disengage the transmission and allow you to move the tractor manually. If you're having trouble locating the manual bypass valve lever, you may want to consult your owner's manual or contact the manufacturer or a qualified technician for assistance. They should be able to provide you with more specific information and guidance on how to locate and operate the manual bypass valve lever.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/1qeykk75u1-000247/craftsman-917250420-front-engine-lawn-tractor-parts

See parts diagrams - ground drive

Look for brake pedal and follow linkage

are you holding the lever while lifting your foot of the pedal?

underneath by the right side tire turn in the adjustment nuts on the brake rod. if brake is bad the disk will have to be replaced see a manual.

Its not really a clutch, clutch/brake pedal when pressed will release belt pressure which stops pulley from turn axle. When predded all the way down it mechanically applies brakes. The vibration is from a bad pully that the drive belt rides on or a bad belt. Look for chucks of belt missing.With engine off put on parking brake and manually wiggle each pulley that drive belt rides on to see if there is any play. No play should be present. Good luck.

First: check your drive belt. Don't have the product manual? Download it from the Sears or Murray website. Second: Check your clutch/brake linkage. The clutch may need adjustment. Procedure on manual. The clutch wears over time and needs to be readjusted.

Seems that your clutch needs adjustment, no biggie here. Get your needle nose pliers and a spare ¼ inch bolt or pin. A small Philips screwdriver will also work. The needle nose pliers are for removing the cotter pin and the screwdriver (or bolt) will hold the brake lever in place while you make the adjustment. Then, check under the right side of the deck (side where the grass discharges) right under the plastic mat where your foot rests and next to the tractor's frame you will see the brake lever with the long spring attached. Have a helper move the brake/clutch pedal so you have a better idea of what's going on down there. Then:

1. Remove the cotter pin, washer, and brake spring from the
adjustable nut
2. Disconnect the adjustable nut from the brake lever assembly
and the parking brake latch.
3. Align the hole in the brake lever with the hole in the frame. Hold
the brake lever in place with your 1/4 inch pin, bolt or the screwdriver.
4. Pull the clutch rod forward until tight. Turn the adjustable nut
until the nut will fit through the hole in the brake lever.
5. Assemble the adjustable nut to the parking brake latch,
brake lever and brake spring. Fasten with the washer and
cotter pin.
6. Remove the 1/4 inch (6 mm) pin, bolt or scredriver.

That should return everything to normal. Assuming that there are no broken or bent parts in your clutch mechanism.
I hope you find this solution helpful. Please rate it and thanks for using Fixya. Good luck!

Hi,
When the mower is off and the clutch is disengaged you should not be able to physically turn the blade(s) if you can then you need to adjust the blade brake (look on the mower deck and you should see what appears to be a brake pad). Your owners manual will show you how to adjust. If you need a copy of the owners manual then I would suggest going to www.managemyhome.com and downloading a free copy of the manual for your mower (Need model number which starts is located under the seat).
Good luck!

is this perhaps a hydro trans? if so, try putting the shift lever in neutral, then let off the brake pedal, use the shift lever to go forward and to neutral to stop - same with reverse, don't even use the brake pedal except for emergency stops. if it's a manual shift, it's possible the belt is incorrect, and/or the belt guides are bent or the belt is improperly routed - the belt guides are important as they allow the belt to "blossom" off the engine pulley, reducing the "shock" load when engaged - hope this helps

first thought would be the brake sticking or the belt slipping, but then you said the fluid has been changed regularly [i'm guessing this is a hydro trans?] did you change it? what fluid did you refill it with? most hydros use regular 10w-40 motor oil, few use ATF. you could have some air in the hydraulic system and that will cause loss of power. to purge the air, pull the trans bypass rod out, start the engine, release the brake and move the shifter slowly to the forward position, then slowly back and to reverse, do this about 10 times, it should purge any air trapped in the system