Rf thermostat wireing - Honeywell Biasi B10-3 Boiler ,riello Burner

I found someone else's step-by-step instructions here:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/forums/replacing-4-wire-thermostat-with-2-wire-progammable-stat-t24791.html

try googling "towerstat rf"

On the Protectorelay Oil Burner Control R8184G4009, you connect the two thermostat wires @ "T" and the other "T". On the ACE Smart Temp Universal programable therostat, connect one wire to "Rh" and the other wire to " "W". Be careful if you are using this thermostat for A/C. In that case, make sure there is no jumper between "Rh" to "Rc".

Question posted under marathon electric water heater.
Marathon is 240Volt dual element non-simultaneous water heater.
Non-simultaneous means that upper part of tank has to reach temperature before power is sent to lower thermostat and element. So if upper element is bad, then water heater has no hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html#audibleBW

1) You need to by-pass upper element without by-passing upper thermostat.
2) You should never by-pass upper thermostat because it has ECO-reset protection.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostats-work.html

3) Open following link for image of wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Marathon-wiring-700.jpg
4) Take photo of your wiring in case color code is different on your specific model

5) Look at upper thermostat.
Remove yellow wire from terminal 2 on upper thermostat, and cap off temporarily.
Remove red wire from terminal 4 on upper thermostat, and move it to terminal 2 on upper thermostat.
6) For more effective operation, look at lower thermostat.
Remove black wire from lower thermostat terminal 1 and move wire to terminal 2 on lower thermostat.

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Open following link to see typical electric wiring for water heater thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html

Always take photo of thermostat wiring before replacing thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

It is recommended that you use all new batteries when replacing them in the Worcester DT 20 RF Room thermostat. Rest the power on the heater with the thermostat near by, this will reestablish wireless communications between the two. You will need to reprogram the heaters timer as well.

If original problem was caused by sediment burning out lower element, did you clean sediment out of water heater when changing lower element?
Two element water heaters are 240V.
Thermostats cut power on one hot wire, but 240V circuit has 2 hot wires. So lower element has power at all times coming from the red wire.
1) Use ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> test each screw of lower element to bare metal part of water heater. Each screw should show 120V. If there is no power, then upper thermostat is defective, screw on upper thermostat is loose, or red wire between upper and lower parts of water heater is bad.
2) Remove wires from lower element. Use continuity tester or multimeter set to ohms <> test across both screws of element to see if power travels through element <> if element is bad, then continuity tester will not light up and multimeter will show no ohms. Put wires back on element after test.
3) Start with cold water in tank. Turn on water heater & upper element will turn on. Put ear on side of tank to hear if upper element is heating water. Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 240V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 0V.
Put ear on side of tank. When upper element turns off: Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 0V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 240V. If this test shows 0V and 0V, then upper thermostat is bad. If reading is correct, immediately move to next test.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
4) Turn temp on lower thermostat to 150. Using ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> Test across both screws of lower element. If there is no reading, and you know element is good from step 2, then lower thermostat is bad, or wire is bad between lower element and lower thermostat, or wire is bad between lower thermostat and top part of heater.
5) Test across both lower thermostat screws, should read 240V.If this test is good, it means wires are good. Put jumper wire across both screws of lower thermostat, and test lower element again. If element finally turns on with jumper wire, then lower thermostat is bad.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

If wire is bad between upper and lower parts of water heater, and water heater has tight-fitting 2" foam insulation, it usually indicates water heater replacement.

If you're talking about the wire leads on the thermostat, they will not pull out -- there built into the thermostat.

The wires fried because of loose connections which cause arcing -- I've seen this many times. The thermostat may still be good -- I'd suggest not replacing it unless it's proven bad or is obviously burned/smoke/charred.

There should be a cover with one or two screws holding it. Remove this to access the connections of the breaker box wires to the thermostat. This is 10 AWG wire and difficult to work with -- just make sure all connections including wire nuts are as tight as you can get them.

And you may only need to cut the burned end of the (breaker box) wires off and reconnect -- depends on how far back they are burned.

Charlie

The new thermostat (I assume you must be changing one) will have several possible scenarios. If you have two elements and thermostats you look for the diagram that says two elements working NON-SIMULTANEOUSLY. In other words the top element heats until the thermostat is satisfied and then, and only then the power is sent to the bottom thermostat. The wiring diagram will have the numbers and colors of the wires for everything in the heater except your feed wires. Those colors don't really matter much. You will have three conductors--two hot wires and (likely) a bare ground wire.

Hope this helps.

Mike