Question about Drills
Go to a machinery shop/warehouse who sell to metal trades or metal companies ,,,,pete ...or if you need a cheap one try bunnings ,masters super cheap, repco,auto one also has a good selection etc:
Posted on Jun 16, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is unless there is a tang on the end. What you need to do is thoroughly clean the parts with something like brake clean to remove all the oil and then wipe with a clean paper towel. What I do it put the arbor into the drill press or the chuck onto the arbor and then put a 2x4 on the table and press the parts together or if you have enough room fully retract the jaws and use the block of wood to "tap" the parts to seat them. Let me know if you need more assistance
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks rowdy45176. Your solution was spot-on. I cleaned both sides and them , with the chuck jaws fully retracted, tapped it with a plastic mallet"
There is probably a depth stop collar with a thumbscrew on the shaft which has the three handles attached to it. This collar would be about two inches in diameter. All you have to do is loosen the thumbscrew.
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
To get rid of the bad boring job on the column you might have to take the swivel adjust apart below the table and rework that. I would try to shim it rather than file all that cast iron. A stainless hemishpere shaped shim of .007" thickness or so would be a good thing to try first. Square with a good 6" square and a dowel pin in the chuck and the Column tensioner at full tightness of course. Keep the shim 1/2" out from the lock bolt and the whole thing should sort of tighten down well enough to use as long as you don't bend the handles with drill pressure. We had one that was actually loose between the Column, the Base and the Drill Head where it was turned too small.
Posted on Dec 16, 2011
Testimonial: "Great! I really appreciate---this is just what I was looking for. Does the shim need to be cemented in place? Thanks Mike!"
On a small drill press you could make a 4.5" high riser block. Steel bar would be best. You could roll pin a bunch of 3/4" thick bars together in a stack just big enough to lock to the base T-slots. For tall parts you just then pry some of the bars off the roll pins with a big screw driver. I like to get rid of Universal or Adjustable stuff as it always introduces flex, movement while running and non-scoocum rigidity!
Scoocum Rigidity: Pertains to Harmonics of metal cutting with anything sticking out more than 1" from a fixed support of some kind. And also pertaining to large Cedar Totem Poles of the Pacific West Coastal Indians.
Posted on Dec 17, 2011
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