Question about Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer spins no heat f-70

Spins, no heat. 10 ohms across the heater and the hi temp and thermometer all together and all check individually. The other fuse up front is closed 0-ohms. I get f-71 but also an old f-28. The moisture readers are operating as per diagnostic test. But the f-70 is present. I see where someone replaced the main control board and iit did not fix it. I also see folks saying to replace the user interface board? Any confidence to give me in anyway possible? model 11087872601

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  • Jimi Kavarnos
    Jimi Kavarnos Feb 16, 2014

    the code is f-70 not f-71.

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 2,696 Answers

F70 error code is telling you the dryer is running to hot,when was the last time you manually took the dryer apart and cleaned it out?this should be done once a year if it's gas and every 18 months if electric,try unplugging the dryer,remove the bottom panel,pull out the lint filter then remove the screws that hold the metal duct on and remove the duct and clean it out with a shop vac,then vac out the cabinet where the motor is,then set the vac to blow and blow out the cabinet and motor,this way you blow the lint forwards so you don't have to remove the front and drum.put it back together,then remove the vent line from the back of the dryer,you have to clean the line out,if it's a long run you can put a leaf blower into the line and blow it out to the outside,have someone outside to make sure the air is blowing out strong,also you can run the dryer with the vent line off of the back and see if the code is gone,if it is gone and you reconnect the vent line and the code comes back then you still have a block in the vent line,remember all a dryer does is move air,if it can't move it to the outside you'll either blow the thermal fuse or the high limit thermostat or get an error code or both but it's a safety so you don't have a fire because the dryer is running to hot,you might also see that it's taking longer for your clothes to dry.clean the dryer out regularly and it will run like new,you won't need to change as many parts and your clothes will dry on time and most important you won't burn your house down.hope this helps and ggod luck.

Posted on Feb 25, 2014

  • Sal De Feb 25, 2014

    if you don't have any heat most likely you took out the thermal fuse or the high limit thermostat remove the bottom panel,remove the metal duct and the lint filter,you'll see a white piece on top of the blower wheel housing,it's the thermal fuse part 3392519.pull at least one of the wires off,get your meter and set it on ohms say 20k,touch the leeds together and you should get anything but 1,now touch the leeds to the part,if you get 1 the thermal fuse is bad,any other reading it's good,if it's bad clean out the dryer and vent line and change the thermal fuse,if you don't clean out the dryer and vent line the fuse will keep popping until the block is removedif the fuse is good move to the heater box,check the heater element and all the t-stats on the heater box,check them the same way,remove at least one wire from the part you check and you hopefully will have a bad t-stat and it's not the board or motor.

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SOURCE: No nothing! -Kenmore HE3 DRYER # 82826

PS: The HE3 does have a belt switch right near the motor..
Try the hir-dryer trick on the main buttons.. or of you can solder replace all of the buttons on the main control panel. they love to stick ON and cause the entire thing to appear dead (see my other post on the dryer fix) other items were also listed.. check the little white fuse just behind the lint-vent (under lower cover, behind the galvanized vent that covers the fan (left sensor)) that one and the door switch (blue/white) kill the motor completely.. ohms-beep them for good connections..

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SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat

it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110

If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

Posted on Feb 05, 2009

  • 572 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag dryer will not heat. have checked everything!!!

check the heating element

Posted on Feb 12, 2010

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1 Answer

Spinning but not drying clothes


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Please rate me

Aug 24, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

The dryer is not heating


Hello there here is a list of things to check
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse


Jan 09, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

I hava Kenmore Dryer from Sears 5 years old not drying?


Hi Freddy,
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/ http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx Both also have chat assistance 24/7. Good Luck, Hope this helps Please rate me, Thank you

Jan 07, 2010 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer spins with no heat


put the dryer on timed dry...if not heating,the heating element could be bad...or a tsat on the heater assebly..there is a safety fuse on the top of housing nearthe wall...if its a whirlpool,remove back cover..on the left side of the dryer,where the vent line hooks up,just above it..a white fusible,also fixed tstat for exhaust temp..on the right side is a heater on the bottom,on the heater box,there is at the tsat,also at the heater.....you going to need a ohm meter to check for ohms...or if not sure just replce all these items...hopefully these solves your problem----

Oct 28, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

It keeps running non-stop but wont heat up


Your temperature thermostat or heater coil is most likely bad, you can test by ohming each. NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

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1 Answer

Kitchenaid superba dryer won't heat Where is the heater fuse located?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

Mar 30, 2009 | KitchenAid Dryers

1 Answer

No heat


check to make sure you are getting 240 volts to your dryer if so then check high limit thermostat on heater asm should be only two wires and small and round then you want an ohm reading at any temp then check your element you want an ohm reading and it will depend on the model then check voltage at your heater by removing conector and checking to see if your getting voltage from both sides 120v from timer and then from motor that will tell you where your problem is.

Feb 01, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat


it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Jun 28, 2008 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Kenmore home dryer not heating but will turn on and spin


If your dryer turns on, but does not heat, the Thermal Fuse is GOOD. A blown Thermal Fuse will stop a dryer completely.

If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

Getting to those components to determine if they are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.

The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - take reading across the two RED leads on the heating element. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.

I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.

Nov 01, 2007 | Whirlpool LGV4634JQ Gas Dryer

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