Question about Kenmore Dryers
Spins, no heat. 10 ohms across the heater and the hi temp and thermometer all together and all check individually. The other fuse up front is closed 0-ohms. I get f-71 but also an old f-28. The moisture readers are operating as per diagnostic test. But the f-70 is present. I see where someone replaced the main control board and iit did not fix it. I also see folks saying to replace the user interface board? Any confidence to give me in anyway possible? model 11087872601
F70 error code is telling you the dryer is running to hot,when was the last time you manually took the dryer apart and cleaned it out?this should be done once a year if it's gas and every 18 months if electric,try unplugging the dryer,remove the bottom panel,pull out the lint filter then remove the screws that hold the metal duct on and remove the duct and clean it out with a shop vac,then vac out the cabinet where the motor is,then set the vac to blow and blow out the cabinet and motor,this way you blow the lint forwards so you don't have to remove the front and drum.put it back together,then remove the vent line from the back of the dryer,you have to clean the line out,if it's a long run you can put a leaf blower into the line and blow it out to the outside,have someone outside to make sure the air is blowing out strong,also you can run the dryer with the vent line off of the back and see if the code is gone,if it is gone and you reconnect the vent line and the code comes back then you still have a block in the vent line,remember all a dryer does is move air,if it can't move it to the outside you'll either blow the thermal fuse or the high limit thermostat or get an error code or both but it's a safety so you don't have a fire because the dryer is running to hot,you might also see that it's taking longer for your clothes to dry.clean the dryer out regularly and it will run like new,you won't need to change as many parts and your clothes will dry on time and most important you won't burn your house down.hope this helps and ggod luck.
Posted on Feb 25, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Spins fine but no heat
I solved the problem. The problem was the heater relay. Once I troubleshot the system and realized the wiring was likely good, the only answer was the heater relay. Since the heater relay and motor relay are identical I swapped them to make sure and now the motor didn't work. Picked up a new relay for $30 and it was fixed...
Posted on Dec 12, 2007
PS: The HE3 does have a belt switch right near the motor..
Try the hir-dryer trick on the main buttons.. or of you can solder replace all of the buttons on the main control panel. they love to stick ON and cause the entire thing to appear dead (see my other post on the dryer fix) other items were also listed.. check the little white fuse just behind the lint-vent (under lower cover, behind the galvanized vent that covers the fan (left sensor)) that one and the door switch (blue/white) kill the motor completely.. ohms-beep them for good connections..
Posted on May 19, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
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