Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Top drawer shows f2 error but rotor freely spins. When sitting water drips out of the clear plastic bottom cover.

If left it eventually floods the bottom tray and gives an F1 error.

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  • Fisher and P... Master
  • 3,247 Answers

This is a serious problem. Most likely the base of drawer is leaking. This contains the motor and heater units. Refer this diagram.

http://spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/images/files/18816_a21ebb5ac093d66472cef9bd1e8f3b12

Posted on Apr 03, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: DD603 upper drawer pump rotor will not turn - F2

Maybe you dont have to remove anything else.. try the rotor from the bottom drawer first. If this works just buy a new rotor..

Posted on Aug 05, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: F1 bottom drawer locked

F1 means the flood switch has been activated. here is a trouble shooting flow chart.
1. did a flood occure? yes. q-2 or no q-12
2. is the lid sealing on the tub correctly? yes Q-3 no=Answer
3. Is there a high water level in the tub. Yes-q4 no q-6
4. is the water valve leaking? yes=Answer no-Q 5
5. Is the dish drawer priming correctly? yes q-11 no q-6
6. Is the spray arm split. yes=answer, no q-7
7. is the spray arm running freely. yes q-8 no q=answer
8. is the water leaking from a split inlet or drain hose? yes = answer, no q9
9. is the water leaking around the heater plate or o rings. yes=answer, no q10
10. carroy out more testing to locate the source of the leak.
11. drain hose may have been blocked or partially blocked.
12. is there water or condensation around the chassis flood switch pcb.
13. if power fails to the bottom tub, it will cause the top tub to f1

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

  • 713 Answers

SOURCE: Power light + bottm drawer closure

the plastic covering at the bottom is clipped in. check outside diameter of the cover and u will find the clips. is your activator board in working order? when u have a leak on these units it sometimes causes problems on that lower board.did u put connecters back properly? check these things and reply back 4 more help if needed. good luck.

Posted on May 05, 2010

  • 784 Answers

SOURCE: Water leak from top drawer. Had F1 flood alarm

Top right corner: it means the bad right actuator could not pull down the lid seal on that side causing a leak. The actuators are sold in pair. They are not expensive. Replace both of them when you order them in. Need to inspect the rubber seal around the top lid since if it is distorted another 60 bucks to get a new lid for replacement also. The new lid comes with the york to engage with the actuators.

Posted on May 08, 2010

taran_2005
  • 10515 Answers

SOURCE: I have the two drawer

Hi,

Unless you keep using the wrong detergent or keep putting dishes that are to tall in there. i would have to say your actuators ar bad and its not letting the lid go down to seal it all the time.There is no adjustment. You need to replace the lid actuators.
Remove the drawer by press int he tabs on the side. The tabs are about 2 inches behind the front panel and are al the bottom of the drawer on the sides. Once you remove the drawer you will see the white actuators on the inside of the dishwasher.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Jan 11, 2011

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I have a Fisher Paykel 605 double DD. I have an F2 error message. There was a frozen rotor, likely from disuse over the winter. I replaced the rotor and it still stops and shows the F2 display. There


Not sure if you have fixed the F2 problem yet. The rotor cavity may look clean but sometimes there is a piece of bone or seed stuck inside the channel connecting rotor cavity with pump sump. Take the rotor out and the drain filter out. Take a rigid thin wire and run it inside the channel connecting the two.

Also get some white vinegar and with a tooth brush rub it inside the rotor cavity to ensure all dirt is removed. The rotor speed sensing is done by the hall sensor sitting underneath the cavity. It is not visible from top. The sensor could be reading incorrectly. IF still no luck then Run in diagnostic mode - (but make sure you do not try any other function than what is mentioned here otherwise you could damage dishwasher).


DishDrawer Diagnostics can
only be entered in Power Off mode, ie. When there is no display on the LCD or the
badge LED's are off. Diagnostics is entered by holding the
Keylock and Start/Pause buttons simultaneously for 5
seconds. Ensure that
Keylock is pushed first.
All LED's and LCD segments (except keylock) are illuminated. Press Power button and display shows HO in red background. Press Start/ Pause. You are now in hardware diagnostic mode. Open drawer so that you can see inside. Press Start/ Pause a few times until FU shows on display. At this point press Keylock and water should flow in. Press Keylock to turn inlet valve off after water is collected under the wash arm (don't cover wash arm). Press Start/ Pause again and P1 will display. Press Keylock to turn rotor motor on and water will swish around. Press Keylock to turn motor off within a few seconds otherwise flooding could occur. Next press Start/ Pause once so P2 displays. Press Keylock to run rotor again but this time it will pump out. Let it run until the water is pumped out. Press Keylock to stop pump. This should test the rotor in both forward and reverse direction.
PRESS POWER BUTTON ANYTIME TO EXIT DIAGNOSTIC

If the hardware test worked ok then turn mains power to dishwasher off and on and start normal wash cycle. If there is still an F2 problem then hall sensor is faulty and needs replacement. Not easy to do and best left to technicians. By the way each dishdrawer has separate controller - so one drawer could be working fine and the other not.

May 10, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel Dishwashers

1 Answer

F2 code on Fisher Paykel dishwasher


The problem is linked to rotor operation during discharge cycle. By replacing the rotor with bottom will only address part of the problem. There is very likely some obstruction in the pump cavity. This is the small channel connecting the drain sump and the pump cavity. Grab a thin but rigid wire and clear this channel. Usually a bone chip or some seed.
Also confirm if the top rotor worked ok when you moved it to the bottom drawer.

Mar 09, 2013 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

Rotor Assembly Stuck in Drawer Cavity


This picture of the rotor shows two of the three clips that hold it in the washer tub. They protrude from the smaller tan disc sitting just above the red magnet subassembly. Normally, you would unlatch and remove the filter plate, then unlatch the rotor assembly by turning the larger tan disc (with the three arrow tabs) counterclockwise until it stops. Since the top of your assembly is broken off, you'll need to turn the smaller disc counterclockwise about 1/8 turn, so the clips can slide up through their slots. The magnets in the rotor also hold it down somewhat, but it should be possible to slide the rotor out by hand.

The rotors in my double dishdrawer were deteriorated to the point that the plastic around the magnets was crumbling. Note that although the plastic around the magnets is red in this picture, all 4 rotors I have actually seen have blue plastic encasing the magnets, similar to that used for the impeller. I suppose it is possible that your magnets have come completely loose, and are jamming the rotor in place, or that some other foreign matter is caught in the drain impeller at the bottom of the rotor. But there isn't normally any physical connection at the bottom of the rotor- the lower impeller spins freely to pump water out the drain.
2_23_2012_5_42_29_am.jpg

Jan 16, 2012 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in...

2 Answers

I have a f1 come up and a f2 on my dishwasher what is it


f1 = Flood Code

This means that the dishwasher most likely has a leak

There is a float switch in the bottom of the machine and when water gets down there it trips the code

F2 = Roter not moving

you can remove the basket and spray arm and pull the roter out and make sure its clean and give it a try.

Jan 21, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD-602 Built-in...

1 Answer

What does the wrench and F1 mean when the dishwasher isn't working?


F1 signifies that the flood sensor in the rear of the cavity on the bottom drawer has been activated. This is caused by water leaking into the rear of the drawer. I have had the same problem with my own and also repaired a friends unit which was doing the likewise.

The water in the drawer is only the symptom of the underlying cause. You will need to be reasonably handy to undertake this operation.

Firstly you will need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the flood sensor. Turn the unit off at the wall power outlet before you touch anything! You need to pull the drawer out fully and then activate the tabs on the left and right side at the bottom front of the drawer to move in move it out further and off the tracks.
Make sure you have some towels on the floor in front of the unit. Once you have the drawer out lay it on it's right side on top of the towels. There will be an amount of water still in the unit which will likely drain onto the towels as you do so. Now you will be able to see into the drawer cavity, preferably with a torch, and also see the flood sensor on the rear left hand side. You should also notice a fair bit of water in the bottom of the cavity. As you've made sure the power is off, you can mop up the water.
The plastic cover over the flood sensor can be gently removed by pressing down and sliding it to the right. Once the cover is off you can again mop up the excess water before using a hairdryer to fully dry the flood sensor out. Don't put the hairdryer too close to the flood sensor, just let the warm air slowly dry things out over a 10-15min period.
Once it is all dried reverse the above instructions to put the unit back together. Be sure to make certain the both the left and right tabs are engaged when you are putting the drawer back onto the rails. There should be a positive click if they are engaged properly. If not undo them fully and try again. You will notice that if either side is not engaged properly the drawer won't run in and out smoothly.

Now you can try to run each drawer. I prefer to test the top one first on a short rinse cycle. If that runs without any problems do the same of for the lower drawer. If you don't get any errors you're in business. If you do then read on for further help.

If the F1 code comes up after running either drawer then you've narrowed down which one is the problem. You will again need to remove the offending drawer and check the drainage hose. There will likely be a split at some point along the drainage hose. It's quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod.

If in doubt get a service technician out. Also search up 'F1 fault' on this site for further assistance.

Jul 06, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

3 Answers

My drawers are both flashing F1 and sound as though they are in high gear. I have unplugged them. Please advise. Please give detailed instructions.


F1 signifies that the flood sensor in the rear of the cavity on the bottom drawer has been activated. This is caused by water leaking into the rear of the drawer. I have had the same problem with my own and also repaired a friends unit which was doing the likewise.

Firstly you will need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the flood sensor. Turn the unit off at the wall power outlet before you touch anything! You need to pull the drawer out fully and then activate the tabs on the left and right side at the bottom front of the drawer to move in move it out further and off the tracks.
Make sure you have some towels on the floor in front of the unit. Once you have the drawer out lay it on it's right side on top of the towels. There will be an amount of water still in the unit which will likely drain onto the towels as you do so. Now you will be able to see into the drawer cavity, preferably with a torch, and also see the flood sensor on the rear left hand side. You should also notice a fair bit of water in the bottom of the cavity. As you've made sure the power is off, you can mop up the water.
The plastic cover over the flood sensor can be gently removed by pressing down and sliding it to the right. Once the cover is off you can again mop up the excess water before using a hairdryer to fully dry the flood sensor out. Don't put the hairdryer too close to the flood sensor, just let the warm air slowly dry things out over a 10-15min period.
Once it is all dried reverse the above instructions to put the unit back together. Be sure to make certain the both the left and right tabs are engaged when you are putting the drawer back onto the rails. There should be a positive click if they are engaged properly. If not undo them fully and try again. You will notice that if either side is not engaged properly the drawer won't run in and out smoothly.

Now you can try to run each drawer. I prefer to test the top one first on a short rinse cycle. If that runs without any problems do the same of for the lower drawer. If you don't get any errors you're in business. If you do then read on for further help.

If the F1 code comes up after running either drawer then you've narrowed down which one is the problem. You will again need to remove the offending drawer and check the drainage hose. There will likely be a split at some point along the drainage hose. It's quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod that came with the units I've repaired.

Jun 28, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

3 Answers

F1 flashing both drawers


F1 signifies that the flood sensor in the rear of the cavity on the bottom drawer has been activated. This is caused by water leaking into the rear of the drawer. I have had the same problem with my own and also repaired a friends unit which was doing the likewise.

Firstly you will need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the flood sensor. Turn the unit off at the wall power outlet before you touch anything! You need to pull the drawer out fully and then activate the tabs on the left and right side at the bottom front of the drawer to move in move it out further and off the tracks.
Make sure you have some towels on the floor in front of the unit. Once you have the drawer out lay it on it's right side on top of the towels. There will be an amount of water still in the unit which will likely drain onto the towels as you do so. Now you will be able to see into the drawer cavity, preferably with a torch, and also see the flood sensor on the rear left hand side. You should also notice a fair bit of water in the bottom of the cavity. As you've made sure the power is off, you can mop up the water.
The plastic cover over the flood sensor can be gently removed by pressing down and sliding it to the right. Once the cover is off you can again mop up the excess water before using a hairdryer to fully dry the flood sensor out. Don't put the hairdryer too close to the flood sensor, just let the warm air slowly dry things out over a 10-15min period.
Once it is all dried reverse the above instructions to put the unit back together. Be sure to make certain the both the left and right tabs are engaged when you are putting the drawer back onto the rails. There should be a positive click if they are engaged properly. If not undo them fully and try again. You will notice that if either side is not engaged properly the drawer won't run in and out smoothly.

Now you can try to run each drawer. I prefer to test the top one first on a short rinse cycle. If that runs without any problems do the same of for the lower drawer. If you don't get any errors you're in business. If you do then read on for further help.

If the F1 code comes up after running either drawer then you've narrowed down which one is the problem. You will again need to remove the offending drawer and check the drainage hose. There will likely be a split at some point along the drainage hose. It's quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod.

You do need to be reasonably handy to undertake this task. Best of luck.

Jun 22, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

F2 flashing on lower drawer


F2 means "motor not sensed to be rotating"
You said "very rarely used" also. The two go hand-in-hand in most cases. If you leave the drawer sit unused for months and months, this can ruin the motor rotor. The rotor comes out with no tools. Remove the dishrack, the wash arm (both simply lift off) and then the stainless steel filer/cover. This is removed by rotating the collar counter-clockwise and lifting it up. Now rotate the collar for the rotor counter-clockwise and lift the motor rotor out of the pump base. See if it spins freely. it;s probably frozen. You also can try swapping the rotor from the upper drawer into the bottom and see if that will work for you. if the rotor is bad, it is a part number 525884P and you can get them here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=231

If you find this info to be accurate and correct, please rate my answer as a FIXYA.

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Feb 01, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in...

1 Answer

Dishwasher error


The error was a flood fault, water was not draining from either of the drawere, I removed the bottom drawer, dried drip pan and used hairdryer to dry fault sensor, the dishwasher then reset itself and works fine.

Dec 31, 2008 | Fisher DS603W / DS603B / DS603I Dishwasher

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