Question about Jandy Pool & Spa
Low coil temp reading and D5 error display
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had this problem with ours last year. I replaced the water pressure switch and it began working fine. We later had a symptom that the blower would start but it would not ignite. The ignitor rod was corroded so I took it out and sanded it with some sandpaper---worked fine...until I dropped it trying to reinstall and it broke. Bought a new one and it works fine now.
Today's problem is related to the blower now.... it is always something, isn't it?!?
Posted on May 30, 2009
I am not sure if you have solved this issue, or not, but here is one idea. When you turn on the heater, it is reading the temp at 125/126 correct? IF this is what the heater is reading, then the problem is the Thermistor,or temp sensor, and is very easy to replace.
If you have an Owner's Manual, there are part numbers and instructions on how to replace the Thermistor. If you do not have one, follow the link below and it will take you to one online:
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
I believe you may have a draft restriction and this may stop the start up diagnostics. The draft detection switch is sometimes restricted or weak. Common problem. Tap the gas valve to see if the winter has caused the valve to seat heavily and stick.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
This isn't a solution, but a question after having the same problem and doing some troubleshooting. I removed the water pressure switch in the heater and turned on the pump and water flows nicely out of the copper tube for the water pressure switch. Next I replaced the pressure switch and removed the two wires and shorted them together, being as a switch is either on or off, shorted or open. I confirmed that the short is seen at the connector going into the control panel. I still have the low pressure light blinking. What now?
Posted on Jul 24, 2010
SOURCE: Jandy Lite 2 pool heater
Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com. If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!
Page 34 and 35 of your manual, found here, describe FL0 as a flow issue most likely caused by dirty filters. Depending on the type of filter you have a good cleaning/backwash will usually remedy that. It is also possible the unit's pressure switch, which senses water flow and therefore reacts to dirty filters when present, may have failed, especially if you winterize the heater in a cold climate and leave water in the switch which can burst the diaphragm inside.
Start with cleaning the filter. If the heater still won't fire jump out the pressure switch while the pump is running to confirm the part is the problem. Assuming it is replacing it with a new pressure switch which should be under $75. The part number can be found in the rear of the manual.
Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.
If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!
Posted on Apr 29, 2011
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