Rubi 250 switch

Here is a possible wiring diagram for the voltmeter on a 1996 Peterbilt 379 with a C15 engine:

1. The voltmeter gets power from the battery through a 5A fuse (F2) and a 10A circuit breaker (CB7).
2. The voltmeter is grounded through a ground wire (GND) connected to the chassis.
3. The voltmeter receives the signal from the alternator through a wire (ALT) connected to the alternator "sense" terminal.
4. The voltmeter also receives a signal from the ignition switch through a wire (IGN) connected to the ignition switch "ACC" terminal.

Here is a possible wiring diagram based on this description:
Battery positive (+) ---[F2]---[CB7]--- Voltmeter (+) ' ' Battery ground (-) -------------[GND]--- Voltmeter (-) ' ' Alternator "sense" terminal ---[ALT]--- Voltmeter signal input ' ' Ignition switch "ACC" terminal ---[IGN]--- Voltmeter signal input
Note: This is just a possible wiring diagram and may not reflect the exact wiring configuration in your specific vehicle. It is always recommended to consult the wiring diagram provided in the vehicle's service manual or consult a qualified mechanic or electrician for assistance.

Switch not operating properly.

As far as the terminal board (terminal block, terminal plate) , I assume you mean something like this:

http://img.jpcycles.com/zoom/382-054_A.jpg

You may or may not be using all of the connections (they come in different standard lengths, and might have more connections than you need).

Now, I can't remember which wiring diagram I sent, so I'm starting over with this:

http://shovelhead.us/specs/wire/1976_FL_FLH.gif

The lower diagram is actually an continuation (to the right) of the upper diagram.

On the upper diagram, item #1 (to the right of the headlight, with little spots inside of it numbered 1 - 11) is the FRONT TERMINAL BOARD.

On the lower diagram, items # 17 - 20 comprise the REAR TERMINAL BOARD.

These show how many wires go to each terminal connection (example, terminal #3 in FRONT TERMINAL BOARD shows 5 wires connecting to that one terminal, #s 9 & 11 are not used).

Now your wire colors MIGHT not be stock.

In which case a multimeter would help you chase the wiring:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

Also, do you have a Fat Bob tank center dash ignition switch?

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA5MVgxMjI2/$(KGrHqZHJDME63ZMWiUbBO3tGwQzH!~~60_35.JPG

Or a key switch mounted somewhere else?

http://demonscy.ipower.com/i_pics/ignition_17-124_1.jpg

If the dash switch, this might help:

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/931/dashswitchwiringdiagram.png

If a key switch, three wires would be:
1 - hot lead coming INTO switch
2 - lead going to ignition, brake light, instrumentation (for running without lights)
3 - lead going to lights (headlight, taillight) for ignition AND lights.

Hopefully, this will start you off.

Fire back with any questions

Not sure what a common relay terminal is.
The blower relay gets power from a 50amp fuse. Power goes to the blower motor and the resistor and speed switch provide the ground circuit. The on signal for the blower relay comes from the selector switch.

Hello Dale,

Having checked the thermal fuseto be good i will give you a partial list other things that could make the dryer not start

start switch

door switch

timer

circuit breaker, use your meter set to volts ac and check for 240 vac at the outlet,if 240 not at power outlet check for burnt connection inside outlet or bad circuit breaker

if 240vac at outlet check for 240 vac at terminal block on back of dryer where cord connects,if 240 at outlet but not terminal block replace cord , if burnt connection at terminal block,replace cord and block

finally the motor,manufactures do not publish wiring diagrams online and the only way for me to tell you to use jumper cord to check motor is find the wiring diagram inside of control panel and place one wire on the terminal indicated as neutral on wiring diagram and one wire on terminal indicated on diagram as run winding

firstly though check door switch to have contunity (0 ohms) and the start switch to have (0 ohms)WHILE PUSHING IT IN(the start switch isa momentary contact switch and will only have contunity while its pushed in)
to check timer again use wiring diagram and find chart that shows various cycles and with timer set to a cycle the two wires is says will have contunity will be indicated by a solid black line on the diagram

Good luck, Gene

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15306-wiring-250.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15306

GE 15306 is a version of 120Volt Tork 1101 indoor-outdoor timer sold at Home Depot under GE name and number.

You have 2 cables.
One cable comes from Breaker box, and other cable goes to Load (light, fan, motor, pump).
Each cable has black and white wire.
1) Cable from breaker box: Black wire H Hot connects to to terminal L.
Notice there is a metal bridge that connects terminal L and terminal 1.
If metal bridge is missing, use a jumper wire and connect L and 1.
White N Neutral from breaker box connects to terminal X.
2) Cable going to Load:
Black connects to terminal 2
White connects to terminal X.
So both white wires are on terminal X.

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/267319/How+do+I+wire+a+new+ignition+switch

http://www.superdutydiesel.com/wiki/tiki-read_article.php?articleId=13

here is were you need to go. good luck.

simple test: disconnect + battery terminal and check if there is a spark if you touch it back on the terminal ,if not leave terminal disconnected overnight and reconnect terminal and check.if battery flat -replace if not get back to me