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maybe something loose under the body , stone skirts or worn ball joints , steering or suspension bushes. if its not the engine , or the engine could be out of balance many overhead cam motors have a second counter weight that runs from timeing belt, belt can break but engine shakes at high revs.
Tip the device over on its rear side, with the top of the device facing you. 2. Rotate the bushings on each side of the roller upward. 3. Remove the left-side bushing by sliding the bushing to the left. 4. Slide the roller and shaft toward the left until they clear the hole in the right-side bushing, and then lift the right end of the shaft. Slide the roller and shaft toward the right, and then lift the roller and shaft together out of the device.
I had a 312 cid in my 1956 Ford. There are several possibilities and in the firing order, cylinders 4 and 8 are next to each other in Counter Clockwise firing order. There is a ridge on the cap which matches a slot on the distributor and allows the 2 parts to interlock and mesh. Any other rotation of the cap will tip the cap off center and increase the firing gap on the high side while possibly causing the opposing terminals to scrape. Wear in breaker plate bushing or distributor shaft bushing. Easily determined if you can find a real old-time speed shop with a Distributor curve machine. What happens is torque shifts the spinning distributor shaft to the side of the bushing with excess play. Basically same thing happens with a worn breaker plate; movement causes misalignment of breaker plate and points lose gap when breaker cam tries to lift points. If removed you can fiddle with distributor shaft and put points on "High-cam" for each cylinder and measure point gap. Logically, if perfect, each "High Cam" has the same gap. But wear will show up if you put pressure either on the breaker plate or the distributor shaft. There is a spring pin holding the distributor gear onto the shaft. You may find a seal on the shaft at some point. The parts were lubed by the oil "sling" onto the distributor housing, You may be able to "180" the distributor drive gear so mark it relative to the distributor shaft. Other than the above, I do not know if an 8mm wire would fit into the Distributor cap; the older wires were 7mm 0r thinner and sometimes spark would jump if the wires crossed. Finally, and much more expensive would be worn rear Camshaft bushings. 4 and 8, I believe were opposed and wobble could account for non electrical misfiring. I hope my info has helped you. Would be interested in what you found.
This is usually assocciated with the wearing of the Bushes in the shaft as there is play.This norrmally develops on a period of time due to water and dirt accumulation.
You will need to remove the drive and put in new bushes to suit for a tight setting.
Depending on your budget, I suggest replacing the item. It sounds like your bearings are bad, which means tearing apart the case and replacing them (which don't cost much). There are two bearing encasements so you would need to replace both. If you're up for the challenge, give it a try! The bearings can typically be found on the manufacturers website.
http://geeksquad.fixya.com/ThreadView.aspx?prdid=0&thid=654762 Generic problem for all Vacuums 1957 Sunbeam Twin-Blade electric lawn mower shaft... Posted by mower man on Jun 08, 2008 I have a late 50's series Sunbeam twin-blade electric lawn mower that I use regularly. The shaft bushing(s) on the left blade has worn out, and there's too much play for me to run it w/o ruining the machine. It appears that the belt-run cog inside the housing is the part that is supposed to come off of the shaft to get to the bushings, but instead of a cotter pin or other fastener holding the cog in place, it looks like a rolled metal pin that may have been pressed in place. How do I replace the shaft bushings so I can keep using this great vintage appliance!? I found a website that supplies parts for this model year, but no schematics or user manuals.Thanks! Hello, I would advise you to ALWAYS to FIRST UNPLUG YOUR VACUUM before beginning any service procedure. This website is for vacuums and you would need to contact a local lawn mower shop in the yellow pages, they are amazing about the way they can fix old lawnmowers. So if you need further assistance, please feel free to contact your local vacuum cleaner dealer in your area or in the yellow pages, or contact the factory phone number or website to further assist you with your questions. Thanks, Don the Vac Man Go Ahead. Use Us.