Question about Televison & Video
I switch it on at the wall and the picture comes on for a few seconds then switches off then on again this constantly repeats and my remote control appears not to be working
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This looks to be a power supply fault - the inverters for the backlights are built into the power supply (Delta Electronics, model no. ADP-40AF).
Posted on Dec 11, 2007
SOURCE: stuck in self check mode
Unfortunately, this is a common fault with these units.
Fortunately though, it can be fixed.
See my earlier solution show below.......
Ok guys, you asked for a fix for the DMR E55 Self Checking cycle. Here goes.
In 99% of cases this is caused by a faulty regulator on the main power board.
The power board is located on the right hand side of the unit. The regulator is IC001 which is mounted on a thin metal strip which acts as a totally inadequate heatsink. This means that this component constantly works at temperatures beyond its tolerance.
Because of this it usually lasts a couple of years and then starts causing problems. The Self Checking syndrome is typical. If the regulator burns out completely, it can take other components with it, blow fuses and scorch the circuit board.
If you are competent in using a soldering iron with care, order an STRG 6353 regulator. These can be obtained online from a number of suppliers.
Disconnect your DMR E55 from the power source and remove the lid. Next, remove the fixing screws from the circuit board on the right where the regulator is located. Carefully remove the multi connector on the left side of the board. Remove the screw above the power connector on the rear of the unit. The power board can now be removed from the cabinet.
Using a small pair of wire cutters, clip all five pins from the old regulator as close the the top of the board as possible. Undo the screw securing it to the heatsink and remove the old regulator which can now be thrown away.
Next, using your soldering iron, remove what's left of the pins from the printed board and with a solder ****** or desoldering braid, clear the holes ready to accept your new regulator. Be careful because if you over heat the print it can lift away from the board.
Use a little heatsink compound on the back of your new regulator, poke the pins through the circuit board and then secure it to the heatsink. I usually fit an extra heatsink on these units which helps to reduce heat and prolong the life of the new component.
Next, resolder the 5 pins on the print side of the board. Use a magnifying glass and make sure you haven't missed anything or bridged connections in error and caused short circuits.
Now put the board back. This can be a little tricky but it's easy enough if you take care. Refit all the screws and carefully reconnect the multi connector.
If you have followed this correctly, switch the unit back on, pop in a DVD and give it a try. Unless you are very unlucky, Your DMR E55 will no longer repeatedly self check and will operate correctly.
Whilst it saddens me to hear that some of you guys would toss your DMR E55s into the trash can for such an easily repairable problem, please do not attempt this unless you are confident in your own ability.
Finally, do check that the fan operates but remember it is temperature controlled and will not activate until it is needed. Do not assume it is faulty because you do not see it working straight away. I have repaired lots of DMR E55s and I have never found a single fan or fan control circuit to be faulty. That's not to say it can't fail. good luck...
Posted on May 03, 2008
Hello burrow31. There maybe a switch located on the fan stating 'remote/manual'. Check your manual. Remove the battiers in your remote and short out the battery contact terminals. Reinstall the battiers, start the fan and after fan has reached set speed press & hold fan speed button for one second. Still no speed change contact the Mgfr. with model & serial #.
Posted on Oct 13, 2008
If you are electronically inclined, replace the three 1000uf 16v electrolytic capacitors in the power supply board located above the power switch. They are likely bulging out at the top and failed. They are the three in a row at the top - center of the board, located between the two black heat sinks. Make sure you get caps rated for 105c degrees! I recommend replacing them with 1000uf 25v caps. 35v caps will work but might be a tight fit as they are larger diameter.
Should cost you about $8 for the parts shipped. You can get them from partsexpress or digikey or any good local electronics store. Your local radio shack may have them but they won'y be 105c and thus may not last long.
Not handy, ask around, there is usually some electronic tweaker guy around that will install them for a few bucks.
This has solved the turns on / then off problem every time in the 3 I've done.
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
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