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Slipping on snowy and icy roads in winter? Don't give up riding, just add some studs to an old pair of tires. 1. Either get a hold of some old bicycle tires that still have tread on them or buy a new pair. 2. Poke a pin through the thick tread part of the tire to measure its thickness. 3. Find some metal screws that are just a little bit longer than the thickness of the thickest rubber tread of the tires and have a tapering head so when screwed in fit flush with the rubber. 4. Drill holes through the treads in the tires smaller than the size of screws you have. 5. Screw the screws through the inside out in the tires until the are all the way through and sit flush with the inside of the tire. 6. Screw in all the screws making alternating patterns between the treads (ever other tread, every 2 treads, etc.) The more screws you use the longer it will take but in the end you will have better traction. 7. When you have completed screwing in all the screws wrap a piece of duct tape over the top of all the screws to protect your tube from them. 8. Place the tires back on the rips and pump up the tubes and enjoy! ***Be careful, the screws are sharp and will scratch or cut you! You definitely don't want to ride to close to someone or hit a pedestrian with your tires.
This video covers replacing the plastic step tread on the Stairmaster SM916 and 7000PT Stepmill. (The procedure shown for the plastic step tread replacement can also be used for the Stepmill and Gauntlet.) Remember that if replacing one step tread, all step treads should be replaced. A general rule if one tread is worn it is likely all other treads are worn in the same manner.
Tools Needed: Rivet Fastener Removal Tool, Safety Goggles, Snap Ring Pliers (Gauntlet, Stepmill and 7000PT may require a 1/2 inch Nut Driver or 1/2 inch Wrench instead of Snap Ring Pliers), Clean Rag, Flat Head Screwdriver, 1/2 inch or 12mm Deep Socket, Rubber Mallet
Begin by removing the side cover for access to the step shafts. Then position the steps as if you were going to step up on the unit.
Start by removing the snap ring or nut from the step shaft. Inspect the snap ring (if equipped) and replace with new if over sprung. Lift slightly on the step to remove the bearing and outside washer. Keep note the orientation of parts for reassembly. Push against the step shaft so as to push it out through the other side. There is another washer on the inside of the chain link. Continue pulling the step shaft out.
Once you have the step shaft half way out, you can get your hand inside to hold the step up. Then go ahead and pull the step shaft the rest of the way out. You can rest the bottom portion of the step on your knee and gently fold the top portion under.
You will need to remove your knee so that the bottom portion of the step can be flipped so that the plastic tread is against the floor.
Using the flat head screwdriver, remove and discard the 10 pushnuts affixing the plastic tread to the step. Remove the old plastic tread.
Put the new plastic tread in place so that the 10 plastic ribs are facing up through the metal step.
Next, using the 1/2 inches or 12mm deep well socket and rubber mallet install the new pushnuts. Place a new wave washer and pushnut over each plastic rib. Place the socket over new wave washer and pushnut. Using the rubber mallet, tap against the socket to pop the new pushnut into place. Repeat for all 10 pushnuts.
After replacing the plastic tread, it is time to reinstall the step shaft.
Reinstall the step shaft from the side it was removed. Get the step shaft started into the chain. Be sure to reinstall your washer between the chain link and the step assembly. Lift up on the step and push the step shaft into the first part of the hinge (about 2 inches). Align the bottom portion of the step with the top portion and continue pushing the step shaft through. You want to be sure that you have reinstalled the washer between the step and chain link on the other side. Now that the step shaft is in place, you should reinstall the outer washer, the step shaft bearing, and lastly the nut or snap ring.
Roll the steps down to the next step and repeat. Continue with the process until all 8 step treads have been replaced. Plastic Tread Replacement Video for Stairmaster Stepmills SM916 7000PT
Make sure that the tyres on each side of the vehicle are of the same type of tread, and the same size and the same tread depth. All of these can cause "self steering".
If these aren't an issue, then check the track rod ends for play (wear)
If these are okay, then also check the steering rack mountings for play. There are rubber mounts and brackets which locate this. Sometimes they work loose on some models, or the rubber mountings can perish and/or wear out.
I dont know where you can get replacement tyres. But here is a fix for the problem:
Using tweezers then fingers, pull off the existing tyres.
Take ordinary sewing thread, and wrap it around the V in the wheels (where the tyre was), about 20 turns or so, keeping the ends inside the V.
Put the tyres back on.
The thread forces the tyres further out, making some tread from the rubber available above the level of the plastic wheel rims.
Assuming that you have not been racing with the car or spinning the tires at stop signs, you should do an inspection of the tires yourself. The easy way to check them is with a penny. When you insert the penny into the tread grooves, the rubber should stick up past Abe Lincoln's head. Make sure you check all of the grooves at the wear bars. If the rubber does not reach his head, your dealer is correct, and you need new tires.
If it is true that you only have 13,000 miles on the tires (car) and they are worn out, I would question whether the tires were inflated to the correct pressure or if the alignment was off. When you replace the tires, make sure those things are within specification so it doesn't happen again so quickly.
I... would not. From what I know most tires have a direction of rotation which is a result of the overlap of the belts when they are applied. Then the rubber is put on top and a tread is lay in the rubber. The tread on the front (used primarily for stopping) is often different from the tread on the rear (used primarily for moving). Basically they're designed to accomplish different functions, and while they may work anyways, it will not work as well as it could.