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Whirlpool (Old) dryer makes a zapping noise at the outlet. It will run, but there is no heat

I heard the outlet (220) making the snapping-zapping noise when I started the dryer. One of the prongs is burnt looking. Dryer runs as if it's working, but there is no heat.

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  • 239 Answers

Unplug the dryer, IMMEDIATELY.

Get a Pro to check for wiring shorts or heating elements that are, burned loose, touching or other wise going to ground...

What you are describing is a severe fire hazard if not corrected...

Posted on Feb 16, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 2920 Answers

SOURCE: Is there an adapter for a 4-prong plug to fit a 3-prong 220

they dont sell adapters like that..you have to change the cord and it wont hurt the dryer at all

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool GEW9200 dryer makes loud whining noise...

It might be metal on metal. It is possible that something worked it's way from inside the drum it between the drum and the rest of the dryer. There's just a couple of srcews that holds the back and top on to the dryer. Take them out after un-plugging the dryer, and consider plugging it back in and running it to see if you can here where the squeek is coming from.

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

  • 1122 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer makes buzzing noise but will not run.

that is the sign of a bad dryer motor-sorry-mike

Posted on May 08, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: my whirlpool dryer won't heat up and makes a lotof

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the part numbers are as follows:

Heating Element - 279838
TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit - 279816

All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

All your heating circuits are accessible in the rear of the dryer by removing the back panel. Just remove the screws around the perimeter of the back panel and the heating circuits will be located on the right-hand side. Refer to the exploded view diagrams at the websites I mentioned for reference. The heating circuitry is located under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

Posted on Oct 31, 2009

erpaalai
  • 999 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer is making a rattling noise.

Rattling could be anything from a bad idler or support pulley or coins in the vanes. If you can hear it you can find it pretty easily.
Eric

Posted on Jun 13, 2010

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