Question about Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Electric Range - White-on-White

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Ctronic oven control does'nt function on Whirlpool RF388LXG/QZ

Can turn on a burner and control flashes but doesn't heat element or turn on oven

Posted by Anonymous on

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: Oven does not work after running self cleaning

Dear Dupe,

please rate this solution if it mends up ur needs,else choose fixya,


please do the following checks,

  • Reseat the element
  • Test the element
  • Test the element connectors
  • Check the thermometer bulb
  • Test the oven temperature control
  • Test the oven selector control
  • Recalibrate the temperature control

  • please rate this solution if it mends up ur needs,else choose fixya.Thank you

    Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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    • 14 Answers

    SOURCE: Electric Dbl Wall Oven-loud popping noise at end of self clean

    Bill ,i dont suspect the control unit is the problem im going back to the loud pop you heard I would say the pop you heard was one of the elemants blowing and that the reason the the breaker tripped if you say the clock,timer and light functon are ok it more so points to an elemant in most cases when an elemant blows it breaks the circuit .but the other componants also work when you reset the breaker i think in this case bill i would call a electrician it needs testing,sorry i could not help this time bill,but do not hesatate to contact me if i can help you again.adrian

    Posted on Feb 14, 2009

    • 187 Answers

    SOURCE: bake element does not heat up

    This would be a good candidate, but not necessarily an absolute. Selector switches, loose wires, fuses, and a few other sundries could also be the cuprit. Make sure that the new element that was installed is the correct one for your model. I am assuming that the element was replaced?

    If not, by all means, check the element. Elements only last a few years. Just because the plug it plugs into has current, it doesn't mean that the element itself is any good. By far, a burned out element is the most common, easily fixed failures.

    Unplug or shut the appliance off at the breaker. Pull the element and visually examine for burnt or rough spots. The elements either pull directly from the housing, or are held in place with a few screws. Bad elements sometimes look totally normal.

    If the bottom and top elements are the same( they usually are) a simple check would be taking out the broiler element and then swapping for the bake element. If the broiler element works in the bake position, buy a new element and ask for a refund for the service call.

    I can't understand why the service person did not pull the unit and check voltage in the control before making an absolute diagnosis. The circuit board is usually well over 100.00. The unit also sometimes comes with a diagnostic feature that homeowners/techs can use to test the "ERC" without even taking it out of the range.

    If you have your owners manual, check the trouble shoot section. If not, Sears has some manuals and repair help/parts online, and Whirlpool is among the best companies in terms of customer supports. I don't know your model, so I can't be too specific with advice. The link for Whirpool has a search engine you can use for your exact model. This link is for most newer models. Among other online resources, Repair Clinic" has parts that you can order online, and they also have diagrams that can help out significantly if you do change the unit out yourself. If it is something cheap like an element, it is helpful to go to an appliance store where you can return the unit a little easier. Thanks for your question, please leave comments if you need further advice.

    Posted on Dec 14, 2009

    barkencoa
    • 3463 Answers

    SOURCE: Whirlpool AKZ 446 Electric fan starts but oven

    Yes , the element is easy to replace
    Remove the cover at the rear of the oven, there you will see the element, undo the screws securing it, and replace the element.
    This should solve your prob.
    Good luck..

    Posted on Dec 29, 2009

    john504
    • 31 Answers

    SOURCE: after cleaning this oven, all controls work, but

    most ovens element are pretty easy to remove. Now if you didn't and just pushed them up you may have just disconnected the power. Make SURE!! you 220volts are off before you attempt to work on any power. If control is off you should be ok to work on elements.

    Posted on May 09, 2010

    Testimonial: "Thanks! I'll follow your advice and replug the elements."

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    1 Answer

    On my Ge electric oven, sometimes it starts but after 3-4 seconds it shuts down and the true temp light flashes, but most of the time when I push the bake button the true temp light just flashes.


    Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

    If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

    Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
    When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

    Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
    On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

    Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

    ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
    The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
    Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
    When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
    First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
    Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
    Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
    Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
    To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
    The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!


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    Jun 04, 2015 | GE Ovens

    1 Answer

    Why does my whirlpool gold accubake range display turns off?


    If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

    Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
    When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

    Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
    On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

    Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

    ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
    The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
    Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
    When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
    First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
    Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
    Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
    Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
    To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
    The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

    Jul 06, 2014 | Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

    1 Answer

    Why does oven shut off seconds after starting


    Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:
    If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

    Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
    When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

    Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
    On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

    Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
    ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
    Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
    When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
    First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
    Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
    Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
    Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
    To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

    Jun 08, 2014 | Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

    1 Answer

    What could cause this ? We have a Super Capacity 465, ceramic top oven. Everything appears to work properly except, when turned OFF, the surface heating indicator light for the left back burner remains on...



    after pics see articles





    Stove will not turn off CHECK


    Temperature Control Thermostat


    If the oven won't turn off the oven thermostat is often the cause of the problem. The electrical contacts inside the oven thermostat can weld themselves together and then the oven won't turn off. If this happens, turn off power to the entire appliance at the household circuit breaker or fuse. The oven thermostat usually cannot be tested and must be replaced if defective.

    Oven Control Board


    The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven.

    Relay board:
    Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately. ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.

    : I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!





    Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.

    Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
    This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
    The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.

    Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.

    Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

    GAS OVENS
    The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
    2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
    3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
    spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

    Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

    If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
    There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

    The oven safety valve
    (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.


    ELECTRIC OVENS:

    CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

    : I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



    Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

    If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

    Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
    When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

    Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
    On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

    Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

    ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
    The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
    Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
    When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
    First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
    Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
    Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
    Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
    To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
    The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!





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    Apr 29, 2014 | Whirlpool Ovens

    1 Answer

    Whirlpool electric Range RS675PXYQ -- Oven won't heat or heats very little


    http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

    Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
    1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
    2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
    3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
    4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
    5.
    6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

    If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

    THINGS TO CHECK:

    the broil element
    is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

    If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


    The bake element
    is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

    Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

    The oven safety valve
    (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
    I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


    Surface burners
    are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

    You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

    On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
    is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

    The infinite switch
    on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
    1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
    2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
    3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
    4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
    5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
    6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
    7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
    If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

    Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
    to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

    The oven burner igniter
    commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


    http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start/



    https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/18---/Oven-won-t-turn-on-
    Oven Won Turn on

    Nov 15, 2012 | Whirlpool Ovens

    1 Answer

    Oven off and on


    Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

    If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

    Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
    When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

    Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
    On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

    Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

    ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
    The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
    Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
    When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
    First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
    Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
    Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
    Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
    To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
    The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

    Aug 19, 2012 | Whirlpool Ovens

    1 Answer

    When trying to turn on the front right burner it doesn't heat at all what do I need to replace?


    Check the wiring to the element, be careful shock hazard. On my electric range the wires were broken where the element plugs in socket. Socket kits are about $9.00 us If you have a volt meter unplug the element and turn the control on if you have voltage then replace the element. Thanks Tom

    Nov 29, 2011 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

    1 Answer

    Model FEFL78CBC frigidaire oven bottom (bake) burner won't work everything else works fine --even broiler element works fine. Just used self-cleaning cycle, which did work. Next morning oven won't heat ....


    We had the same thing happen and now they came and said it was the clock that needs to be replaced. They said that controls the oven. Even though clock is on and working the function for turning on the oven is not

    Nov 28, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

    2 Answers

    Older Whirlpool RB170PBX both ovens out


    these ovens have a fuse in them called a tco thermal cut out switch if the ovens over heat for a varity of reasons it cuts the power and must be replaced most are on the back of the ovens and are metel disc with two wires on them

    Jan 31, 2008 | Whirlpool RBD305PD Electric Double Oven

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