Question about GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven

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Replaced broken elements in upper and lower ovens and now the upper oven will not turn off

We replaced a broken element in each oven and the bulbs in both ovens. When we turned the power to the oven back on, the top oven will not turn off when the knob is turned to the off position.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Electric Oven doen't heat

cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Dec 27, 2006

scottowa
  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Elements in convection oven won't heat

DO you have a model number for that. I'm almost sure it's a thermal fuse in the back of the oven. Usually they go out during or after cleaning but that would shut down both elements. If you have the model (usually by the inside door look all over and up in the cavity) Then if you go to this link

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?intcmp=xsite_Sears

It will show you a breakdown of the oven and where it is. If you give me the model I'll show you what I'm talking about. Good luck.

P.S. if it the fuse it's a cheap fix, little hard to get in back of the oven but cheap!

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

dmftrucker
  • 1922 Answers

SOURCE: install new element in upper oven lower element

unplug unit from 240volt outlet or if hardwired shut off circuit breaker at house panel, remove 2 screws at where element leads enter oven cavity and pull out element,you may have 2 terminal screws to remove electrical connections from element if it doesn't plug-in, then reverse procedure and its done

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

aardvarkrepr
  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I cannot get the oven element or the back left burner to heat

I take it when you mention burners you are refering to electrical hot plates?

If you have tested with 110V --even nthough it should be 240V then I can assume that the hob is working.

Possible cause is the regulator.

Regards

Aardvark Repairs

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

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