On my nikon fg the light meter is very dim and will not give a correct reading. The lights stay around 60 and 125 f stop numbers no matter where the apature is set. The shutter will go slower than 125 but will not go any faster.
Ah, I figured this out. It's not the battery, since the light isn't dimmed. I had the same problem with the light being stuck at 60/120, and it was just flashing. There's a certain mechanism in the camera that only allows the light meter to start working when the exposure count is at 1. So when you load your film, you have to take 2 or 3 exposures, and crank it, before the light meter kicks in.
Try new batteries. If that doesn't help, the body likely has an internal failure in the electronics. It will almost certainly be less expensive to replace it than to have this type of problem repaired.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It sounds like a bad neutral wire. Somewhere the neutral is not properly connected. Most residential wiring operates on a 240 single phase system comprised of two seperate 120 volt legs. Connect between either leg to the neutral gives you 120 volts.connect btween the two legs gives you 240 volts. If the neutral is not present the circuit will search out the other leg to try to complete the circuit causing dimming of lights extremely bright lights and all around chaos. Check ahead of the main to see that the voltage is correct. Check each leg to neutral with a voltage tester. Have some one turn some lights on and off while checking as sometimes a load is required to get fluctuating readings. If the reading fluctuate wildly the problem is between the power grid and the panel. If not recheck on a a couple of breakers and if the readings fluctuate it is on your side of the system.
. Hope this helps
It would be nice to know what camera make and model you have. However in AV mode the photographer inputs the aperture (AV meaning Aperture Priority). If you then have the aperture set at (for example) F11 and dim lighting conditions the shutter speed will be long in an attempt to give the correct exposure. If you have a meter reading you see in the viewfinder the needle will be way to the - side of the scale it may be dim enough that attempting to adjust the Aperture a few stops makes no difference in this reading. My though is, if the meter is working in "P" program and you are getting correct exposure then it's user input error rather then meter malfunction.
I'm interested in this as well. Just installed fresh batteries, light meter says 1/80 in all shutter settings faster than 1/60 (otherwise it shows the correct setting).
Since 1/80 is the flash sync speed, it may be that the camera thinks there's a flash attached. But it is not...
Strange thing is that one time (I tried a couple of times today) the light meter worked correctly; it showed other timings and they changed as I turned the aperture ring...
Sorry, but there is nothing else you can do without dismantling the camera and giving it a full service. It's not a DIY job so will have to go to a repair specialist.
Note that unlike some similar Nikon models of the time, the FG's complex electronics mean that your camera may now only be good for spare parts as it's likely that the main circuit board has failed and replacements simply are not available and arevery difficult and expensive to fit if you're lucky enough to locate one. The reputation for failure of this model due to ageing circuitry means that it's now unpopular and near worthless.
A repair specialist can certainly tell you whether the camera is repairable before undertaking any serious work on it.
Personally, I'd just advise you to sell it as is for spares or repairs and to obtain a working example or even the mechanical Nikon FM/FM2 which are still plentiful, easily serviced and repaired, and available fairly cheaply or even free (via FreeCycle).
A few things to try, based on my FG's operation:
- The most obvious- are your batteries good? Correct type?
If they are:
- When all is well the red LED metering lights will appear in the viewfinder window on the right side, in the range of shutter speed numbers.
- The red LED metering lights are only activated when you press the shutter release button (halfway). The lights go out after a few seconds if the shutter button is not held down. Just tap the shutter button to reactivate them.
- The shutter speed setting dial must NOT be on B (Bulb) or M90 (non-electronic Manual mode) if you want to see the red LED metering lights. The lights do not operate on these two settings because metering is irrelevant here (you'd be doing the metering, not the camera).
- If you're in P (Program mode) the lens aperture must be set all the way to the smallest setting (usually f22 or f16, depending on the lens). If not, you'll only see blinking lights at the top and bottom of the shutter speed range on the right in the viewfinder. That's a reminder to set the lens to the smallest (highest numeric) aperture.
Hope these help. The FG is a great little camera.
the flashing means that the exposure is not correct for that area. if that area was the subject, then you might want to adjust the settings to reduce sensitivity in order to view that area correctly. if you spot meter the 'true subject' in the frame, there will often be areas outside that subject that are either brighter or more dimly lit. but exposure will be right for the subject. it can't all be correctly exposed if there is much variation in lighting. fill flashes will provide more light to the subject, thus resulting in a reduction in sensitivity of the resulting settings. (shorter exposure time or smaller aperture or a combination of both) and that will let the brighter areas move closer to 'not washing out' or being over exposed as some people refer to it. in either approach, its not a defect or problem unless it bothers you. the flashing just lets you know that you can modify settings if it matters that the photograph has high levels of contrast beyond what you may want. sometimes the subject is not in the center, and thus not metered for. but the framing is set to include something off to the side. you can reset exposure by adjusting exposure compensation so that while you are reading a darker area than that of the subject, you don't want the camera to use that area for light settings necessarily. recap: exposure control via exposure compensation or fill flash mark