Question about Sunbeam 2350 Heritage Series Mixer
Speed controller is stuck on low . Dial rotates without altering the speed. Dont know how to remove speed dial .
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: sunbeam mixer
When you open it, there is are contact points and a piece that has to touch to change the speed. It may just be slightly bent or out of place. Some food may have gotten in there.
Posted on Jun 05, 2008
OK, this may not be a solution, but might help you get there.
The speed control is NOT a potentiometer, it is a mechanical governer, and may be out of adjustment, or one of two components in the speed control mechanism has failed. The following is a test/ adjustment procedure.
During this procedure you will not be fiddling with electrical components (No risk of shock) You will be making adjustments with the motor running.
In the centre of the speed finder dial is a chrome cap. This can be *carefully* pried out. Be gentle, it's easy to chip the phenolic resin plastic.
Behind this cap is a nut around a threaded part with a screwdriver slot. Using a spanner and screwdriver to stop the centre part turning, loosen the nut some.
Turn the speed finder dial to 1. Plug the motor in and switch on. Whilst restraining the outer nut with a spanner, turn the central screw. From memory, it needs to be turned clockwise, that is, screwed inwards. The motor should respond by slowing down. Should you get no speed change, try turning the screw the other way some.
If you get a speed change, continue turning the screw in that direction until the motor stops. Now screw the other way until the motor just starts again.
This is the lowest speed and corresponds to 1 on the dial. Check the speed finder dial is still pointing to the 1 position. Lock the adjustment screw by restraining the central part, and turning the nut clockwise with the spanner until tight. Try turning the dial to see that the speed changes smoothly throughout the range. You may need to tweak the adjustment a little to get things just right.
Once you're happy with the speed control refit the chrome button, and you're done.
If you could get no speed change, one of two components under the speed finder dial has indeed failed.
Now you will need to determine just what the machine is worth to you. A motor specialist should be able to diagnose which part has failed. However, new parts will not physically fit and modifications will be needed. This could prove costly. If you know an inveterate tinkerer, you're costs could be substantially lowered.
Best of Luck.
Posted on Jul 11, 2009
Part 1. Oiling the model 12:
Anyone can do this part.
On the top of the motor are four places where oil should be applied.
Starting from the speed finder dial and working forward-
There is a small hole on the top of the motor, just in front of the speed dial. Using a wooden skewer or a match, clean the hole out, and apply two drops of good quality sewing machine oil.
On top of the motor, and near and behind the juicer attaching cone is another hole, sort of key-hole shaped. Clean it out and put in one drop of oil only.
Three drops of oil go into the juicer cone. Let them run down the side of the hole.
Next to the juicer cone is another round hole. You may need to turn the handle as in removing the beaters to uncover it. Clean this hole too, and apply another three drops of oil.
Do not apply more oil than specified. It will get into the works where it shouldn't.
The following proceedures assume some mechanical ability. Read first to assess whether you are competent before starting.
After all these years, the gears in the front of the motor housing probably need fresh grease. This is a fibre based food grade grease that can be obtained from most bearing sellers. (I used a non-food grade grease, but I have to watch that the motor doesn't get too hot, and the grease run down the beaters, which can happen in extreme conditions.)
Prepare to get greasy during this proceedure. Latex gloves are an asset for doing this job.
Remove the cover plate in the centre of the front, and then the central screw from the front and pull away the front housing cover and handle. Don't loose the coil spring inside. It goes over the screw you just undid.
Unclip the return spring on the beater ejector, and remove ejector and spring together, slide the ejector down and off the beater spindles, then up and out of the guides..
There are four screws that retain the gear cover. The lower right hand one also retains a wire. Remove the screws, and gently bend the wire so the cover can be removed. There is a gasket underneath. Take care not to break it, it's brittle.
Once the cover is away, the gears and worm shaft are visible. Using a pop stick or old screw driver, remove the grease around the under side of each gear. A square headed set-screw retains each gear. When you find each screw, remove it completely. Turning the worm shaft will make the gears rotate.
Once both screws are out, pull the beater drive shafts downwards and out of the housing, and lift out the gears.
Using pop sticks, paper towels etc, but NOT solvents, clean out the gear space. Remove all the grease possible. A toothbrush is good for cleaning the worm thread. Use someone elses.
Wash the gears and shafts in petrol, kerosene or similar and dry thoroughly.
Reassembly is the above in reverse order, first filling the gear housing with fresh grease.
Grease each drive shaft lightly before refitting. Note the holes for the set screws in the shafts.
The nylon gear goes on the left, brass under the juicer cone.
Fit the nylon gear first, working the shaft upwards until the locating hole in the shaft can be seen through the screw hole in the gear. Fit and tighten the set screw.
Align the brass gear so both screws face forwards at the same time when engaged with the motor worm, to prevent the beaters clashing. You may have to put the brass gear in and out a few times to get the right teeth engaged with the worm shaft. Then slide the shaft in, once again observing the alignment of holes to ensure the set screw locks the gear securely.
Put everything else back in reverse order. Apply a smear of grease for the beater ejector where it slides, and don't forget to put the wire back under it's screw.
Part 2, speed control.
The jerky operation at low speed is probably due to dirty points in the governer. Addressing this involves disassembling the rear end of the motor.
DON'T pull the motor armature out of the housing without first removing the brushes during this proceedure. There's no need to remove the armature, but if you're curious....
Remove the chrome cap from the centre of the speed finder dial. Remove the lock nut from the thrust control screw under the cap. Remove the dial, catching the washer that goes under the nut.
There is a resistor, usually green, and a capacitor, a small aluminium cannister under the dial. Gently pry the retaining legs away from one end of each and remove them. Note which one goes where so you can put them back correctly. Marking with a felt pen is a good idea.
Now are visible two slotted screws. Remove these screws and pull the governer housing back and away from the motor. Note the pin with a plastic head, and remember to put it back when reassembling the same way around.
Locate and clean the points with a slip of soft wood and metal polish. Clean away the polish thoroughly. Do not use emery paper, it will make the points arc, and speed control will be worse than now.
Put everything back the way it came off.
To reset the governer, leave the locknut on the thrust controling screw loose. Set the speed control to position 1. Whilst pressing the dial home with one hand, screw the thrust screw in or outwards until the motor just starts to run, and lock the screw by tightening the nut. Test the control for full range, and tweak by slightly altering the thrust screw position as required. Getting the speeds just right first go is usually a fluke.
Replace the chrome cap and you're done.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
SOURCE: How do you remove the
Remove the end cap. It has 3 legs which are hooked UNDER the inside rim of the outer speed dial ring.
These legs look like a one piece plastic part as if it belongs to the outer ring, but it does not.
The end cap legs can be bent inwards, i.e. away from under the speed ring,
Make sure you have good light, so you can see how the legs move.
With a flat screwdriver (fairly wide) bend back (twist the screwdriver gentle) all three to evaluate how strong they are and get a feel.
That also help loosening them.
I recommend to bend back one at a time and put small shims where the screwdriver goes.
While I was able to do it without, it with shims it will be easier to keep the legs inward.
Once you get two legs to come up from under the ring, you can get the entire end cap out.
Had to do this to fix the tilt mechanism. There was an inner nut that had came off the holding bracket. I suspect vibration made it come off , so I put some nail enamel on it after fixing.
The speed ring screws etc. are all accessible once you have the end cap off.
To get to the actual speed control knob, just unscrew the next little part, you'll see and it becomes obvious how to get at the rest.
Posted on Feb 26, 2011
I would propose to solution to your problem,
one. Try getting some clear contact and cutting a a square or circle a little more than the size of the dial. Removed the dial if possible and later clear contact over the surface.
Two. Get some clear nail polish and cover the markings on the dial with thin coat.
Warning warning warning!!! (Test the nail polish on a surface that is not exposed, for example underneath) to make sure that the nail polish does not react with the surface of the mixer.
Posted on Feb 15, 2012
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