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pumps will increase in there noise level as they age , this is due to parts that turn wearing down , eventually pump will fail to turn any more and require replacement , but that could be years later , one tip thought !! allways run pumps level not tilted they last the longest that way (its the way the mfg intended it to be used ) and not have a lot of stress put onthe pump housing with a tight hanging discharge pipe (support the pump not the pipe)
if a pump connected to a gfci outlet trips , then the gfci has detected a high resistance "shortage" inside pump and has disconnected power , this "shortage" can be nearly in detectable from human standards(shock) , but gfci picks it up
most likely pump seal has failed and water has gotten inside pump !! it only takes one drop to do this !!
at home depot the sell a pen that beeps at the sight of voltage (sensor) 12$ good house hold tool to have.. check the cord running to pump see if the pen beeps when held against cord if its a 110 set up the pen beeps and youve the 110 V needed to run the pump if 220 V a bit different .. if left powered But not running in a few min, touch motor housing the metal part of this unit. is it hot as a grill (internal winding problem) or still cool .. Motors are a wear item like tires on ones car.. motors are inexp like 110$ for a 1 hp unit
you have to unplug the power cord, remove the cabinet, at the lower center there is the water pump, remove it and move it out or the way from the motor. put back the cabinet and try to turn it on. if it comes on then you have a blocked pump or a piece of clothing inside holding the pump impeler. remove cabinet, get some towels and remove and inspect iside of pump. use a big flat head screwdriver to move pump with it. if it not move replace pump. if you find clothing inside remove and install and run washer.
The water inside the tub will drain out when the pump filter is removed from the pump housing and flood the base of the washer. If not, the tub drain hose is clogged preventing the water to drain into the pump housing then out.
The door is locked because the foam switch in the pressure switch is open due to the presence of water after the unsuccessful drain cycle.
Disconnect the washer from the power outlet. Remove the three screws holding the lower front access panel to the cabinet and pull the panel down to access the pump housing.
Squeeze the clamp that hold the tub drain hose to the pump housing and slide it back. Prepare a pan to catch the water to prevent flooding. The tub drain hose maybe difficult to remove and you may need to insert something under it to break the seal and pull it off.
Remove the tub drain hose from the tub by squeezing the securing clamp and pulling it off the tub drain outlet. Clear the hose and the tub drain outlet from any debris.
Reinstall the tub drain hose and manually unlock the door before reinstalling the access panel. Reach and pull the release ring behind and up the right side of the front panel, then open the door.
Assuming you are not able to reconnect the cord at the junction with the pump, you can use silicone filled wire splices to repair the cord. These are used for submerged well pumps and consist of a heat shrink splice tube that has a silicone liner. You slip the sleeve over the wire, solder the ends of the wires together and center the joint in the sleeve. Then you use a heat gun to shrink the sleeve. It melts and compresses the silicone into a waterproof seal. A separate sleeve is used for each of the wires in the cord. If not available at a hardware store or Home Depot or Lowes you should be able to get them from an electrical or plumbing supply house.
Yes, If it goes together it will come apart. If it is the one I'm thinking of if you take the base apart there will be through bolts that run through the whole pump, remove these I want to think there are some that are short and these hold the base to the motor but they may be behind the impeller. Be warey as I'm not sure. But once the through bolts are out you should be able to carefully remove the top. Some have very frail gaskets here so be gentel. Once you have the top free there will be a compression nut holding the cord before pulling cord through use a light sand paper to clean the cord so the part you pull through will be fresh enough to seal. Don't lube the cord this will keep it from sealing. Pull it hrough and make your repair and put it back together the way it came apart. Use a sharpie to mark the top and housing as you take it apart. When finished loop some cord through pump handel and tie it off so this takes the weight in the future to keep from having the same problem again. good luck
tub, is the lid switch plugged in? If not take a jumper wire and jump out the two ends on the harness. Timer controls recirculation and spin. The motor turns both ways. The spin cycle goes through the lid switch. Catriver..post back