- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
pumps will increase in there noise level as they age , this is due to parts that turn wearing down , eventually pump will fail to turn any more and require replacement , but that could be years later , one tip thought !! allways run pumps level not tilted they last the longest that way (its the way the mfg intended it to be used ) and not have a lot of stress put onthe pump housing with a tight hanging discharge pipe (support the pump not the pipe)
if a pump connected to a gfci outlet trips , then the gfci has detected a high resistance "shortage" inside pump and has disconnected power , this "shortage" can be nearly in detectable from human standards(shock) , but gfci picks it up
most likely pump seal has failed and water has gotten inside pump !! it only takes one drop to do this !!
at home depot the sell a pen that beeps at the sight of voltage (sensor) 12$ good house hold tool to have.. check the cord running to pump see if the pen beeps when held against cord if its a 110 set up the pen beeps and youve the 110 V needed to run the pump if 220 V a bit different .. if left powered But not running in a few min, touch motor housing the metal part of this unit. is it hot as a grill (internal winding problem) or still cool .. Motors are a wear item like tires on ones car.. motors are inexp like 110$ for a 1 hp unit
It sounds like you have blown your shaft-seal. When this happens the pump runs dry. If you know that you have water but it will not pump, and all the cover and housing o-rings are good, it is the shaft seal. (unless the internal impeller is just broke, but this is unlikely)
Fix: Turn off power. Remove V-clamp holding wet end together. Remove diffuser inside wet end (need flathead screwdriver).
next remove rear electrical panel on the motor. Using s 7/16" wrend, hold the end of the motor shaft by the electrical end (where you removed the cover) while turning the impeller counter clockwise (note: some impellers have an impeller screw inside which unthreads CLOCKWISE) untill impeller is off. Replace carbon shaft seal inside. Reverse and prime and then restore power and start.
The water inside the tub will drain out when the pump filter is removed from the pump housing and flood the base of the washer. If not, the tub drain hose is clogged preventing the water to drain into the pump housing then out.
The door is locked because the foam switch in the pressure switch is open due to the presence of water after the unsuccessful drain cycle.
Disconnect the washer from the power outlet. Remove the three screws holding the lower front access panel to the cabinet and pull the panel down to access the pump housing.
Squeeze the clamp that hold the tub drain hose to the pump housing and slide it back. Prepare a pan to catch the water to prevent flooding. The tub drain hose maybe difficult to remove and you may need to insert something under it to break the seal and pull it off.
Remove the tub drain hose from the tub by squeezing the securing clamp and pulling it off the tub drain outlet. Clear the hose and the tub drain outlet from any debris.
Reinstall the tub drain hose and manually unlock the door before reinstalling the access panel. Reach and pull the release ring behind and up the right side of the front panel, then open the door.
You can get into the case ok but this is probally in the cord and getting that free from the caseing is the trick and then getting it back together so it won't leak is yet another. after some thirty years in the buisness I've found that due to exposure to the elements the cord you pull into the seal and the cord seal it self will not hold water for more than a few months and new parts wait time and aggrevation make replacement an option. But if it sounds like I'm saying don't try this, I'm not. What I am saying is if you try to fix it and it dosen't work don't feel bad, your not out anything but your time. If it works you win. When you take apart the back of pump you will find a rubber seal as you will find a comperssion seal around the cord. First usins a fine wet and dry sandpaper roughen the cord outside the pump and the rubber seal at the rear plate do not lube these. Pull some new cord through tighten compression seal at cord trim cord and rewire pump past weak spot caused by pump housing reset back plate tightening evenly and firmly but not so tight as to cause plate to warp. then tie off cord to some place on pump so if some one pulls on pump it isn't pulling on cord at houseing.
tub, is the lid switch plugged in? If not take a jumper wire and jump out the two ends on the harness. Timer controls recirculation and spin. The motor turns both ways. The spin cycle goes through the lid switch. Catriver..post back