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Ge oven will not turn off after replacing element

After replacing oven elements in both the top an bottom ovens and replacing the lights in both ovens, the top oven will not turn off when it is turned to the off position.

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If the element stays on even when the control is shut off it is most likely that the contacts are welded together in the control. This usually happens when the element blows out with a big bang. If this is the case the control will need replacing.

Posted on Mar 02, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Top oven will not heat up

Had a similar problem. The overheat sensor had failed to the open position and the oven control would light up and you could set the temp, but it would drop to 100 degrees and then go blank.

Posted on Jan 06, 2008

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire GM deluxe electri dean (electric oven wall unit)

if you feel through the insulation you can find the two wires that attach to the element pull them through to plug the element back on but there is no plug per say but first are you sure the element is good were there no wires on the element when you removed it should have been two spade connectors with wires on them attached to the element hold my rating till you reply

Posted on Jan 11, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: GE True Temp oven won't turn off.

The sensor is a part number WB23T10002 and goes for about $60. The paper inside the control area of the oven will state the normal resistance values of it. (probably about 1080 ohms at room temp, about 2650 at clean temp.) If you cut a lead to it, you would just get a F3 code, and if you cut the other and wire them together, just get a F4 code, so that wouldn't help diagnose the problem, but if you could use an ohm meter on the probe it would. BUT the oven should not come on without it being set to bake, SO I conclude that the ERC is indeed the problem (with the welded electrical contacts), which is a part number WB50T10043 which might go for about $125 or so. If you are careful when you replace it, you can probably peal the faceplate (part # WB27T10125) off and reuse it, so you should just need the ERC.

Posted on May 07, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Thermador SC301T heating elements not working (top

Its the thermal safety switch. When it trips - it cuts any power from reaching BOTH elements. Open the oven door - at the top wehere the oven latch is - remove the long black panel. In the middle - on the right is a small cylindrical switch...push down on the top - in the very center...it will rest the switch (like a circuit breaker) and then reassemble. Just did it on mine (2nd time) and it fired right up. Good luck

Posted on Dec 11, 2009

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I suspect a heating element in the oven has burned out. Some ovens have 2 heating elements, one on the bottom for baking and one on the top for broiling. If this is the case, you can try setting the oven on broil and see if the top element gets hot. Usually the bottom element fails first because food gets dripped on it. In most cases you can unplug the old heating element by just pulling on it and plug the new one just as easily. You can check the resistance of the heating element with an ohm meter. If it's burned out the resistance will be very high, probably greater than a mega ohm. In some cases you will need to take the back off the oven to replace the heating element. Just make sure the oven is unplugged and cool when you start working on it.

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Top oven will not heat up


Had a similar problem. The overheat sensor had failed to the open position and the oven control would light up and you could set the temp, but it would drop to 100 degrees and then go blank.

Nov 14, 2007 | GE JKP45 Electric Double Oven

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