Question about Goodman Heating & Cooling
Runs up to temp but wont restart again w/o reset, gets to ignite stage but gas valve wont open. after i reset it it'll run however long it takes to get back up to temp. i put a new flame sensor, rollout switch and circuit board in 2 days ago.
Posted by Anonymous on
It sounds like your furnace one of two things..... once reset, it could be running up to an overtemp condition and is tripping the high temperature limit switch. This typically locks on the blower and the inducer fan and locks out the gas control until the circuit is reset, then it does it all over again. Dirty filter or dirty evaporator coil restricting air flow is a typical culprit.
The other thing could be a tiny bit of oxidation INSIDE the barbed port of the inducer fan where the pressure switch tube slides on. This could be causing either a restriction or a blockage of the positive or negative air pressure required to close a pressure switch when the inducer starts. This will result in a normal sequence up until the gas valve needs to open.
Neither of these suggestions are specifically typical to what you describe, but are two good things to check considering the numbers of parts already installed.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
OK, if the furnace is not lighting for even a few seconds, you have either a bad gas valve, bad wire, bad control module or no gas. The pressure switch is not the issue. Check all wires to the gas valve and look for 24 volts across them when the ignitor glows and you hear the click. Then test for 24 volts to ground. It could be a bad ground wire.
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control). When all else fails, check the ground connection for corrosion.
Posted on Nov 23, 2009
Clean the flame sensor with a green scotch brite pad. Check all ground connections from the circuit board to the furnace cabinet. Check for a proper ground to the electrical box. Make sure polarity has not been reversed.
Posted on Dec 26, 2009
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