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Where does the TH and the TR wire on the board from the gas valve

349FAD036050 gas furnace

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

hotuna
  • 288 Answers

SOURCE: ruud furnace won't light

first lets try the transformer. With your meter check for 24v on the output side. You cant check to ground on this, you have to check your meter with both wires to the transformer. If this is too complicated just try turning on the A/C, if it comes on, the transformer is good. The problem may be with the time delay relay. try by-passing it and then see what happens. since its an '87 when you say circuit board I assume its a board with all the low voltage wires attached to it right? Or does it have resistors, diodes, and relays molded into it?

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

  • 1015 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Rudd furnace

Well first you want to verify that there is gas pressure coming from the connector. Turn off the valve and disconnect the connector. Then turn on the valve for 1 second and back off. You should get plenty of gas flow. Be careful doing this!. Then inspect the opening at the adapter to the control. There is a screen inside there. Make sure the screen is clear(not plugged with pipe dope,lint ect). When the igniter reaches the 2200 degrees you should hear the gas solenoid valve click open releasing gas. If you hear it click and no gas is released you will need to inspect the burner orfices. The orfice has an extremely small hole and there is a posibillity that they are plugged with debris. You will need to use a very small wire(like a tie strap) and insert it into each hole and see if there is anything in the orfice. If you do not hear the gas valve click then it might not be getting the signal it needs due to a weak igniter or flame rectification sensor. Does your furnace have a stand-by pilot that is lit by the hot surface igniter or does the igniter directly light the burner assembly?

Posted on Feb 20, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: I got a new honeywell gas valve for my furnace,but

Hi,
Take the hot wire from the transformer to the R on the t-stat... then take a wire from the W on the t-stat to the th on the gas valve... then take a wire from the tr on the gas valve to the common on the transformer.
That's all there is to it!! :-)

heatman101

Posted on Apr 16, 2010

Testimonial: "very helpfull and to the point.thanks tremendously."

supernova278
  • 1932 Answers

SOURCE: i'm hooking up the wires

Hi,

R -This terminal is the power for the thermostat. This comes from the transformer

C- Common side of transformer

W - This is the thermostat terminal for heating. This wire should go directly to the heating source

G - This is the thermostat terminal used for the fan relay to energize the indoor blower fan

Y - This is the terminal for cooling or air conditioning and goes to the compressor relay



Thank You

Posted on Oct 11, 2010

  • 1015 Answers

SOURCE: I have a bryant gas

The first thing I would do is to shut valve off on gas supply line and remove fitting and nipple that screws directly into the gas valve. There should be a fine mesh screen in the gas inlet. Make sure it is clean and not obstructing gas flow. Use teflon tape and/or pipe joint compound on all threaded fittings when you reassemble. When you have everything tight except the union you can slightly open gas valve to make sure you have gas to that point.After you finish tightening all fitting turn gas valve back on and check for leaks.
You can put a few drops of dish soap on each threaded fitting to check for leaks. If soap bubbles then you have a leak. Repair leak and see if furnace will fire. If you are sure you have gas to gas valve and you can hear valve trying to open but still no flame I would replace gas valve.

Good luck and I hope this helps you some. Thank you

Posted on Dec 19, 2010

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EITHER ZONE VALVE RELAY HAS A BAD RELAY CUBE OR YOUR ZONE VALVE POWERHEAD IS BAD .YOU CAN GET JUST A REPLACEMENT POWERHEAD ASSEMBLY OR EVEN JUST A REPLACEMENT ZONE VALVE MOTOR . CHECK WITH A METER AND SEE IF YOU HAVE 24 VOLTS COMING OFF END SWITCH OF ZONE VALVE AND ALSO MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING 24 VOLTS TR AND TH/TR .

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The water heater red light keeps flashing rapidly on my Powervent 2 model 41VRP40N. It is not producing hot water and when I read the manual it says it needs more heat. What does this mean. How do I fix...


There are many things to check. The single most important test is for 24V at the gas valve after the ignitor is supposed tp be on. 19 V or less and there is either a bad ground or the ingition control board has failed. (Wire ground problems are a high probablilty)

Here is what the book says:

PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED

(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).

Possible causes

A. No main power

B. Faulty transformer

C. Faulty thermostat

D. Faulty limit switch

E. Faulty blower interlock switch

F. Faulty hot surface ignitor

G. Faulty ignition control

Solution

Step #1

Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit

switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.

Step #2

With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage

between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present

check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer

checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,

limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"

(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and

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PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER

WOULDN'T LIGHT

Possible causes

A. Improper ignitor alignment

B. Faulty ignition control

C. Faulty gas valve

D. High inlet gas pressure

E. Polarity reversed

F. No earth ground

Solution

Step #1

Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve

upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also

make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too

high will lock-up the valve.

Step #2

Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing

the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the

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Step #3

Check for proper ignitor position.

Step #4

Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1

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CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED

Step #5

Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,

"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,

check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
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Hi,
Take the hot wire from the transformer to the R on the t-stat... then take a wire from the W on the t-stat to the th on the gas valve... then take a wire from the tr on the gas valve to the common on the transformer.
That's all there is to it!! :-)

heatman101

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1 Answer

Need schematics for honeywell s861ou3009


Those terminals are the power to the module. The tr should be the 24v (hot) line coming from the transformer. The tr/th is the common from the transformer and the th is the 24v line coming back from the t-stat. So tr stands for transformer. the th stands for thermostat. And the th/tr is the common.
I know you ask for schematics but I felt that I could easily explain it to you. It really isn't all that hard. In some cases the tr does not need to be hookup. if you only have two wires there than just hookup the th/tr and the th and it will work.

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Carrier Heating furnace


either the gas at the outside valve is off, or the gas valve at the furnace may be off, or the switch on top of the gas valve in the furace may be off. if they are all on, then you may not be getting a call for heat from the stat to the furnace control board. check to see if you are getting a 24 volt signal from the stat to the w terminal and common terminal on the furnace board. if you are then check to see if the voltage is arriving as 24 volts to the wires at the gas valve itself . if it is then the gas valve is possibly bad. if it is not then the board is possibly bad.look for loose or broken connections on the low voltage wiring. most unusual that the board does everything else but send power to the gas valve. you need to zero in on the valve i think and start by turning off power and that should restart the sequence of operation and you can observe it step by step . if you are not getting a call for heat then the stat may be bad be sure you are in heat , fan in auto and temp pushed up to max. if no 24 volts is sent to furnace board white and common low voltage board then stat is bad. remove it if you think its faulty and jumper the white and red wires together on the subbase. that duplicates what the stat normally does. if the furnace lights its the stat. having said that i realize the stat has to be sending a heat signal or the other stuff would'nt start. so..... back to the furnace board. check that 24 volts in from stat and 24 out to valve and that will put you on your problem item. good luck

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