Question about Carrier Heating & Cooling
349FAD036050 gas furnace
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: ruud furnace won't light
first lets try the transformer. With your meter check for 24v on the output side. You cant check to ground on this, you have to check your meter with both wires to the transformer. If this is too complicated just try turning on the A/C, if it comes on, the transformer is good. The problem may be with the time delay relay. try by-passing it and then see what happens. since its an '87 when you say circuit board I assume its a board with all the low voltage wires attached to it right? Or does it have resistors, diodes, and relays molded into it?
Posted on Nov 04, 2007
SOURCE: I have a Rudd furnace
Well first you want to verify that there is gas pressure coming from the connector. Turn off the valve and disconnect the connector. Then turn on the valve for 1 second and back off. You should get plenty of gas flow. Be careful doing this!. Then inspect the opening at the adapter to the control. There is a screen inside there. Make sure the screen is clear(not plugged with pipe dope,lint ect). When the igniter reaches the 2200 degrees you should hear the gas solenoid valve click open releasing gas. If you hear it click and no gas is released you will need to inspect the burner orfices. The orfice has an extremely small hole and there is a posibillity that they are plugged with debris. You will need to use a very small wire(like a tie strap) and insert it into each hole and see if there is anything in the orfice. If you do not hear the gas valve click then it might not be getting the signal it needs due to a weak igniter or flame rectification sensor. Does your furnace have a stand-by pilot that is lit by the hot surface igniter or does the igniter directly light the burner assembly?
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
Take the hot wire from the transformer to the R on the t-stat... then take a wire from the W on the t-stat to the th on the gas valve... then take a wire from the tr on the gas valve to the common on the transformer.
That's all there is to it!! :-)
Posted on Apr 16, 2010
Testimonial: "very helpfull and to the point.thanks tremendously."
SOURCE: i'm hooking up the wires
R -This terminal is the power
for the thermostat. This comes from the transformer C- Common side of
transformer W - This is the thermostat terminal for heating. This wire should go directly to the heating source G - This is the
thermostat terminal used for the fan relay to energize the indoor blower fan Y - This is the terminal for cooling or air conditioning and goes to the compressor relay Thank You
R -This terminal is the power
for the thermostat. This comes from the transformer
C- Common side of
W - This is the thermostat terminal for heating. This wire should go directly to the heating source
G - This is the
thermostat terminal used for the fan relay to energize the indoor blower fan
Y - This is the terminal for cooling or air conditioning and goes to the compressor relay
Posted on Oct 11, 2010
SOURCE: I have a bryant gas
The first thing I would do is to shut valve off on gas supply line and remove fitting and nipple that screws directly into the gas valve. There should be a fine mesh screen in the gas inlet. Make sure it is clean and not obstructing gas flow. Use teflon tape and/or pipe joint compound on all threaded fittings when you reassemble. When you have everything tight except the union you can slightly open gas valve to make sure you have gas to that point.After you finish tightening all fitting turn gas valve back on and check for leaks.
You can put a few drops of dish soap on each threaded fitting to check for leaks. If soap bubbles then you have a leak. Repair leak and see if furnace will fire. If you are sure you have gas to gas valve and you can hear valve trying to open but still no flame I would replace gas valve.
Good luck and I hope this helps you some. Thank you
Posted on Dec 19, 2010
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Feb 16, 2011 | Heating & Cooling
PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED
(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).
A. No main power
B. Faulty transformer
C. Faulty thermostat
D. Faulty limit switch
E. Faulty blower interlock switch
F. Faulty hot surface ignitor
G. Faulty ignition control
Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit
switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.
With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage
between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present
check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer
checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,
limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"
(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and
"IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present,
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module
PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER
A. Improper ignitor alignment
B. Faulty ignition control
C. Faulty gas valve
D. High inlet gas pressure
E. Polarity reversed
F. No earth ground
Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve
upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also
make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too
high will lock-up the valve.
Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing
the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the
problem, replace wires as they were.
Check for proper ignitor position.
Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1
and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED
Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,
"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,
check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.
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