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The drawer is easily removed. Make sure you switch off the power first and I always unplug just to be sure.
9.1 Drawer Front Removal
9.1.1 Slide open drawer.
9.1.2 Locate draw pin on either side of the tub. (These are white plastic pins, about 1.5cm diameter. You can't miss them.)
9.1.3 Using a sharp pair of long nose pliers or slip jaw pliers grasp the center dividing web of the pin and pull away from the tub to remove the pin. Support the drawer front with your hand while doing this.
Note: The pin web is vertical. 9.1.4 With both pins removed the bottom of the drawer front can now be eased out slightly. 9.1.5 Now carefully pull the drawer front down to allow it to come free from the handle and top locating slots. 9.1.6 Carefully remove the earth wire from the tab on the drawer front. (if it is an integrated model you will also need to unplug the integrated badge from the isolating module) 9.1.7 Refit in reverse manner ensuring the drawer slides are right forward and the pin secures through the hook on the front end of the slide. Note: When reinserting the pins make sure the dividing web is vertical.
9.2 Tub Removal 9.2.1 Open the drawer fully. 9.2.2 Depress the right-hand tub clip and push it back about 30mm (1 inch). Repeat for the left-hand side. These clips are on the runners and are usually white plastic. 9.2.3 The tub may now be lifted up off the drawer runners. It's amazing but the drawer simply lifts out. 9.2.4 Slide both runners back into the product. 9.2.5 Refit in reverse manner.
We all have one of those old wooden dressers or kitchen silverware drawer that drives us nuts because it catches. I now an a very easy solution that does not require installing a ball bearing set of slides though the end result is pretty close.
The old way used to be to remove the drawer and sand/wax the runners (wear surfaces).
The most difficult part of this is properly removing the drawer. Some simply flop out, their contents all over the floor. Other have stops to prevent this. Here's how to handle those:
Drawer Removal ----------------------- Do this by releasing the latch at the back of the drawer. Some push in (spring models like on Singer Sewing machine drawers)and on really ancient antique furniture they are simply gravity operated. A stick of wood that has a small part sticking up and a much larger heavier part below attached by a single screw. It pivots on this screw. So rotate it 90 degrees either left or right then gently remove the drawer, supporting it underneath.
Ultimately it is best to remove all the drawer contents FIRST since you will be for the next step anyway. Better it on the table than all over the floor!
You will need one product to make this work. You go to your local hw store or home center and buy any teflon spray THAT DRIES. It must dry and not stay wet.
Carefully spray the bottom runners of the drawers with a light coat. If you're worried about the finish use a piece of shirt cardboard against the side of the runner so no overspray hits the finish. If you are uncomfortable and the item is expensive, just mask off the sides with newspaper.
But with a little practice and keeping the nozzle very close (1/2 to 1 inch) away from the drawer side runner bottom you will be able to do this easily.
Hitting the inside of the drawer also helps but is not neccessary.
The the spray dry (usually white) before reinstalling. Slide it back and forth many times. Remove and respray any area that are not white anymore -- the product wore onto the wear surfaces in the dresser. This is a good thing.
After doing this most drawers will slide almost as well as if you had spent $40-$100 on a set of professional slides like the new kitchen drawers have.
I did this on a 1950s dresser I refinished and I am just amazed at how well it works. I invented/discovered it just by experimenting with it on wood.
This compares favorably to my first drawer I built in woodworking shop in school. I spent hours sanding that from 180 to 220 to 320 and finally 400 sandpaper and then waxing it and buffing it. It slides well but the above proceedure is far less time consuming than this.
So go! Get a can of dry-setting teflon spray, available for around/under $5 at most home centers and do every drawer in the house! You're life will be so much easier.
I've done every drawer in my place, even a classic mahogany tambour type sliding door for a home entertainment center. That was a custom conversion from a 1960s B&W TV that I reused as a home entertainment center. It covers the system and has the class of real wood furniture. I mention this because I think this would also work on sticky tambour classic rolltop desks as well. I know they are getting repopular again for computer stations. I've seen them in the high end mailorder catalogs as well as custom designs in my favorite woodworking magazines.
But I came up with this tip all on my own. It started in my woodworking shop. Unfortunately now it won't let me put it in an appropriate catagory -- furniture drawers. Building is maybe the cloest?
Management: Maybe you can find the right catagory or create a furniture catagory? Or a Miscellaneous "Around the house" tip catagory. People who google the problem will still find it.
You need to check under the runners or inside the drawer for small projections that will indicate where the latches are. Pressing these projections will allow you to pull the drawer a bit further out and remove it from the runners.
Take care not to force it back onto the runners again. You should hear a gentle click when they are securely re-engaged.
The brew group could be out of alignment. Perhaps try turning the machine on, then close the service door. The brew group should realign automatically, allowing you to then remove the dreg drawer (tray). Try removing the brew group after the drawer is out of the way.
When the machine operates a lid comes down on the top of the drawer. This may be jamming.
On the side near the front at the bottom there are 2 plastic slotted screw heads, turn these to horozontal and pull out the "screws" this will release the drawer from the runners and you can lift off the drawer and possibly see whats jamming.
here is a link to the some installation and operating instructions. basically you need to put a 2" x 2" runner under the lip of the tub along the three sides of the tub that touch the walls to support the lip of the tub. that pretty much covers it.