Question about Dryers
It won't stop unless you unplug it. It keeps running with the door open and after the time hits any stop/end points on a cycle. What part needs to be replaced-- or does the dryer?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On some Kenmore which is made by whirlpool, there is a resistor connected to the timer control. when the machine is off can you listen to the timer switch and hear it running, making a clock ticking sound? If so, you need a new resistor. Being a dryer, when you open the door and it stops the button needs to be reset before it starts again, right? So I wouldnt be looking at the door switch as much as the start button. It may be the evil one.
Posted on Dec 23, 2007
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
I figured out it was the start switch and took the switch apart and repaired the welded together contacts. Took only a few minutes.
Posted on Dec 28, 2009
This advise is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet front loader washers and dryers with a Control Lock problem.
This may or may not be an indication of a serious problem. In the majority of the cases, this is a simple operator error. Nearly all these model appliances have some sort of Control Lock feature on the front panel now. This is a designed safety feature that is used to prevent small children from manipulating the controls. The controls can be easily locked or unlocked by pressing and holding the following button on the front panel:
Whirlpool Duet Washer - Press and hold the END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds.
Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Press and hold the END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds.
Kenmore Elite Washer - Press and hold the DRAIN/SPIN button for 3 seconds.
Kenmore Elite Dryer - Press and hold the AUTO DRY LEVEL button for 3 seconds.
These instructions may not be all inclusive for all Kenmore and Whirlpool models, but they are the most common. Chances are, if you have a Control Lock feature, the instructions will be printed on the front panel adjacent to the button that is required to lock or unlock the controls.
NOTE: These instructions may also work for newer model Maytag, Hotpoint, Admiral and Fridgidaire model front loaders as well. Refer to your owner's manual or front panel for instructions pertaining to your sepcific model.
If the Control Lock feature will not lock or unlock the appliance, unplugging the unit for AT LEAST 30 minutes is recommended in order to reset the main control board. In many cases this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
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