Question about Humidifiers
I removed the humidistat from the duct and blew it out, same with the electronic controller. There is power detected at all connections, and all connections are tight. I can hear the humidistat clicking when humidity changes. Any help would be great.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Installation problem
I WOULD CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH V/A OUT-PUT ON TRANSFORMER. I DONT KNOW IF YOURS CAME WITH ITS OWN TRANSFORMER. IF IT DIDNT YOU SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF A 40 V/A RATING STAMPED OR PRINTED ON THE EXISTING TRANSFORMER. IF THE TRANSFORMER IS EXTREAMLY HOT ... YOU MAY NEED A 75 V/A TRANSFORMER WITH THE SAME VOLTAGES. INCREASING THE V/A CANNOT DAMMAGE ANYTHING IT JUST GIVES YOU MORE POWER WHEN EXCESIVE CONTROLS AND WIRING ARE ADDED TO A HVAC LOW-VOLAGE (24v) CIRCUIT. IF YOU LIKE YOU CAN CALL ME AT 727-363-7071. I AM A RETIRED HVAC&R CONTRACTOR WITH 45 YEARS EXPERIENCE. I HATE THE NEW SENSORS THEY HAVE TO ACTIVATE THESE NEW HUMIDIFIERS. I USE TO WIRE THE HUMIDIFIER TRANSFORMER (SUPPLIED WITH HUMIDIFIER) TO THE LINE (110V) SIDE TO THE LOW SPEED ON YOUR BLOWER MOTOR. THAT WAY THE ONLY THING THAT INTERUPTS THE CICUIT IS THE HUMIDISTAT. YOU NEVER WANT THE HUMIDIFIER TO RUN IF YOUR SYSTEM IS NOT "CALLING FOR HEAT". NEVER TRY TO ENERGIZE THE WATER SOLENOID THROUGH YOUR HEAT WIRE(USUALLY SMALL THE WHITE WIRE) FROM THE THERMOSTAT. THIS WILL RESULT IN BURNING YOUR HEAT ANTICIPATOR OUT ON THE T-STAT.
Posted on Apr 28, 2007
It sounds like the humidifier may be improperly wired.
It's hard to solve without checking the wiring, but it seems like the humidistat is wired so that as the dial is advanced, it incorrectly turns on the fan, or furnace, or both. The contacts of the humidistat should be wired so that they turn on the solenoid only. Also, the power to the humidistat, to turn on the solenoid, should come on only when the fan is on.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
Maybe I can help. this is 24v so it doestn't matter which wire goes where so here goes. 2 wires from humidistat go to furnace, split one of the wires(not both) so they reach the yellow wires on the humidifier. with marettsconnect one of the split wires to one of the yellow wires. do the same to the other split wire and yellow wire. what you should get is one wire from humidistat to furnace then one wire from humidifier to humidistat and one from humidifier to furnace. hope this helps
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
SOURCE: Honeywell HE260 leaks somewhere
Neither, even if the solenoid or humidistat stick, it should always drain properly. Is the unit mounted on the cold air return duct or the supply plenum? If it's mounted on the supply plenum, the water panel might be getting blown forward and spilling the water. High efficient furnaces also can leak water on the floor if its drain is restricted. If hum. is mounted on return duct make sure drain is clear by blowing through it. On Honeywell hum's I've seen the rubber hose from the solenoid valve to the distributor tray leak too, check the rubber 1/4" hose.
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
You are absolutely thinking correctly....the humidifier should be running when ever the blower is running and the humidistat is not satisfied...in fact in some cases I have advised people even turn the fan switch on to run the blower longer to get more humidity in the air if needed....some furnaces do not have long enough run times to get enough water evaporated...
You have the idea of how it needs to go, so you should just go ahead and wire it up that way and you'll be glad you did!! You can get a relay for a few bucks and have a much better working system...
Posted on Jan 24, 2011
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