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Hamilton 12hf humidifier stopped working

I removed the humidistat from the duct and blew it out, same with the electronic controller. There is power detected at all connections, and all connections are tight. I can hear the humidistat clicking when humidity changes. Any help would be great.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Joe_Rex
  • 114 Answers

SOURCE: Installation problem

I WOULD CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH V/A OUT-PUT ON TRANSFORMER. I DONT KNOW IF YOURS CAME WITH ITS OWN TRANSFORMER. IF IT DIDNT YOU SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF A 40 V/A RATING STAMPED OR PRINTED ON THE EXISTING TRANSFORMER. IF THE TRANSFORMER IS EXTREAMLY HOT ... YOU MAY NEED A 75 V/A TRANSFORMER WITH THE SAME VOLTAGES. INCREASING THE V/A CANNOT DAMMAGE ANYTHING IT JUST GIVES YOU MORE POWER WHEN EXCESIVE CONTROLS AND WIRING ARE ADDED TO A HVAC LOW-VOLAGE (24v) CIRCUIT. IF YOU LIKE YOU CAN CALL ME AT 727-363-7071. I AM A RETIRED HVAC&R CONTRACTOR WITH 45 YEARS EXPERIENCE. I HATE THE NEW SENSORS THEY HAVE TO ACTIVATE THESE NEW HUMIDIFIERS. I USE TO WIRE THE HUMIDIFIER TRANSFORMER (SUPPLIED WITH HUMIDIFIER) TO THE LINE (110V) SIDE TO THE LOW SPEED ON YOUR BLOWER MOTOR. THAT WAY THE ONLY THING THAT INTERUPTS THE CICUIT IS THE HUMIDISTAT. YOU NEVER WANT THE HUMIDIFIER TO RUN IF YOUR SYSTEM IS NOT "CALLING FOR HEAT". NEVER TRY TO ENERGIZE THE WATER SOLENOID THROUGH YOUR HEAT WIRE(USUALLY SMALL THE WHITE WIRE) FROM THE THERMOSTAT. THIS WILL RESULT IN BURNING YOUR HEAT ANTICIPATOR OUT ON THE T-STAT.

Posted on Apr 28, 2007

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  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Looks like my humidistat calls for coil fan and for furnace heat

It sounds like the humidifier may be improperly wired.
It's hard to solve without checking the wiring, but it seems like the humidistat is wired so that as the dial is advanced, it incorrectly turns on the fan, or furnace, or both.  The contacts of the humidistat should be wired so that they turn on the solenoid only.  Also, the power to the humidistat, to turn on the solenoid, should come on only when the fan is on.
Hope this helps!

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Wiring issue with the Honeywell HE360A Humidifier

Maybe I can help. this is 24v so it doestn't matter which wire goes where so here goes. 2 wires from humidistat go to furnace, split one of the wires(not both) so they reach the yellow wires on the humidifier. with marettsconnect one of the split wires to one of the yellow wires. do the same to the other split wire and yellow wire. what you should get is one wire from humidistat to furnace then one wire from humidifier to humidistat and one from humidifier to furnace. hope this helps

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

HVACjake
  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: Honeywell HE260 leaks somewhere

Neither, even if the solenoid or humidistat stick, it should always drain properly. Is the unit mounted on the cold air return duct or the supply plenum? If it's mounted on the supply plenum, the water panel might be getting blown forward and spilling the water. High efficient furnaces also can leak water on the floor if its drain is restricted. If hum. is mounted on return duct make sure drain is clear by blowing through it. On Honeywell hum's I've seen the rubber hose from the solenoid valve to the distributor tray leak too, check the rubber 1/4" hose.

Posted on Jan 21, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: This regards an Apriaire 700 that was installed

Hi,

You are absolutely thinking correctly....the humidifier should be running when ever the blower is running and the humidistat is not satisfied...in fact in some cases I have advised people even turn the fan switch on to run the blower longer to get more humidity in the air if needed....some furnaces do not have long enough run times to get enough water evaporated...

You have the idea of how it needs to go, so you should just go ahead and wire it up that way and you'll be glad you did!! You can get a relay for a few bucks and have a much better working system...


heatman101

Posted on Jan 24, 2011

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I hear no water draining from my heathy soluions lennox humidifier just put in a new filter


None leaking? Try removing the cover, and manually cycling on the controler switch? Does the solenoid click on, next to the humidifier (the unit with the water line running through it, with wires coming out of it)? If it does click on, is water running down the water pad? It doesn't necessarily drain water when it's working correctly. All of the water SHOULD be getting evaporated into the air return duct.

If it's clicking on, but no water is running out, you should check the water supply saddle valve and make sure it wasn't turned off during servicing.

If it's not clicking on, you should test that you are getting voltage (12v-18v DC) to the solenoid. If you're not, check all wiring connections and make sure they're tight. If you still don't get power, you have either a problem with your control unit/humidistat, your DC power supply, or the control board on your furnace.

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Try removing the cover, and manually cycling on the controler switch? Does the solenoid click on, next to the humidifier (the unit with the water line running through it, with wires coming out of it)? If it does click on, is water running down the water pad? It doesn't necessarily drain water when it's working correctly. All of the water SHOULD be getting evaporated into the air return duct.

If it's clicking on, but no water is running out, you should check the water supply saddle valve and make sure it wasn't turned off during servicing.

If it's not clicking on, you should test that you are getting voltage (12v-18v DC) to the solenoid. If you're not, check all wiring connections and make sure they're tight. If you still don't get power, you have either a problem with your control unit/humidistat, your DC power supply, or the control board on your furnace. You may need to call a HVAC technician at that point, depending on your comfort level/skill level in that regard.

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It's not uncommon for duct work in an older home to Bang as the furnace cycles due to age. The humidifier banging while turning on and of is mostlikely the solenoid valve; if the solenoid is bad it is actually to your benefit to replace the entire humidifier as the solenoids are very expensive, 50%+ of a new humidifier. Plus you get the 5 year parts warranty on the new unit instead of just one year on the solenoid. If you don't want to replace the entire unit you can replace the Humidistat, and that should fix the on/off cycling, however a new humidistat is included with a new unit, which again is more cost effective. They are easy enough to replace as a do it yourselfer, especially when replacing an existing unit. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

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Hello, a humidistat is a control used to adjust the amount of humidity you prefer. A demumidistat is the exact opposite and is used with a dehumidifier

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1 Answer

I just installed a Honeywell HE 360 Humidifier I purchased at Home depot. I replaced a Aprilaire model 110 . I have a 120v power duplex that is hot with the furnace blower motor, on so I assumed the sail...


Hello, in order to turn your humidifier on with the furnace the 120 volts coming from your humidifer you must hook it up to a step down transformer, then the transformer will provide 24 volts to you humidistat and solenoid valve. So you need a wire from the HUM on your control board to transformer primary side and a wire from neutral on the board to primary side of transformer. Then you need low voltage wire from secondary side of transformer to humidistat from humidistat to humidifier.

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I have a Carrier humidifier model #HUMCCLBP2217-A. It appears to be working, but every time it shuts off it emits a very loud "thump". The noise is loud enough to wake me up at night. I have...


Do you feel like looking at the humidifier yourself?
You can open the door on the unit, while the furnace is running--
The humidifier is usually installed in the return air duct, so there will be a sucking of air into the open door, when you open it.

There is usually a large wheel, with a wet pad wrapped around the circumference.
This wheel rotates slowly, and picks up water from the sump-- does everything look and sound quiet as it runs? -- The float valve has to open and close, to c ontrol the leve of water in the sump-- (The pool of water the wheel runs the mat thru--
Possibly the valve shutting off, could make a plumbing BANG-- you could duplicate that, by lifting the float mechanism and stopping the water-- does that make the noise?

If you can reach and operate the Humidistat control from near the humidifier, do so a few time-- or Have someone cycle the humidistat a few times, and you listen for that sound--
Is it in the humidifier itself, or the duct work nearby?

It might be that the humidistat wheel scrapes against the side of the sheet metal duct work? -- Sounds travel a long ways in metal duct work!

Let us know if this helps

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Review figures 5, 6 and 7 on the installation instructions and compare with how you wired your installation.
The red wires are not used if you use a mechanical humidistat, (are used with electronic humidstat - supplies 24 volts and go to "hot", "commod" on humidstat). Yellow wired to "Hum" whether electronic or mechanical humidistat used.
If using sail switch or current sensing relay, cuts into one of the yellow wires. - One yellow goes directly to humidisat, then comes out of other side of humidistat & runs to to relay (or sail switch), and comes out of relay (or sail switch) and runs back to humidifier.

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It's a little unusual to add a humidifier in Florida. The ambient humidity is usually high enough.

But anyway, if you want to do this and assuming you have central air with forced air heating, you could install the humdifier in a standard configuration, then use a sail switch or differential pressure switch in the supply air duct to turn the humidifier off or on when you are in the heating mode only. The sail or differential switch will ensure that the unit can't run unless air is moving and you can tie the humidistat in to the first heat stage.

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Neither, even if the solenoid or humidistat stick, it should always drain properly. Is the unit mounted on the cold air return duct or the supply plenum? If it's mounted on the supply plenum, the water panel might be getting blown forward and spilling the water. High efficient furnaces also can leak water on the floor if its drain is restricted. If hum. is mounted on return duct make sure drain is clear by blowing through it. On Honeywell hum's I've seen the rubber hose from the solenoid valve to the distributor tray leak too, check the rubber 1/4" hose.

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