Question about Kenmore Dryers
A burned out heating element is the most common cause. Other electrical components are also possible. Check the element first.
Posted on May 22, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: dryer wont heat
if you already replace the heating element . it may be loose or it get damage . you can open the dryer from the back . and ck if the 220v is coming in . or the thrmstate is no goog . most likely you heater when dad again. good luck . and let me know if you need to find any parts for it .
Posted on Apr 04, 2008
SOURCE: dryer stpped working
with power disconnected
if any wire disconnected before any test, reconnect & test dryer, reconnect wires after each test
disconnect wires from start button and test, conduct when pushed, no conduct when release
if fail replace start button test dryer
disconnect wires from door switch and test, conduct when pushed, no conduct when release
if fail replace door switch test dryer
follow leads from start button to relay(relay is first device connected to start button), and make sure all wires connected at both ends. If any wires disconnected, test dryer
locate thermostats and thermal fuses on fan housing and ducts
individually disconnect wires from each and test. conduct good, no conduct fail
replace any failed thermal fuse or thermostat test dryer
if all prior test OK
replace relay, test dryer
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
Assuming that the fuses you speak of are the external pair, and not the internal motor or timer resets:
Check the fuse holder for corrosion on the plates. Often the fuse is not properly seated because of this build-up and therefore has an intermittent connection. This will cause the fuse to either heat up, or overload; ultimately failing.
To remedy this, turn OFF the breaker, or main switch if necessary, and fix a wooden dowel with a piece of emery cloth (or sand paper) on the end. Remove any visible black corrosion from the contact plates.
Finish with a spray of WD40 to protect the plates and fuse end.
Replace the fuse, ensuring that it's tight, reinstate power and try again.
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Posted on May 13, 2009
To answer your question, "yes", replacing a heating element is a simple repair that you should be able to perform yourself. However, the problem may/may not be the heating element. There are several things that can cause a dryer no heat problem.
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.
NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.
If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:
Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. Your heating circuits are located on the lower right side of the dryer cabinet under the drum. You will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door to access. The elment is inside the heater box while the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and Hi-Limit Thermstat is located on the outside of the heater box to the left of the element. The TCO is located in the rear, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located near the heating element terminals. NOTE: Make sure the dryer is unplugged while taking any resistance checks. Make sure you disconnect any terminal wires before measuring to ensure accurate readings. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
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