Question about Samsung Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you describe a constant flow of water from the ice maker then the solenoid valve is either leaking by when it's upposed to be off or the motor module is stuck in the "fill" position. If it was stuck in fill you would be getting a LOT of water all the time so if you only have a trickle then the solenoid valve may be letting water leak by it. The diagram here shows the parts for a better idea of what you may need to look at (and where it's at). http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Frigidaire/SZGBPCQH.gif
Posted on Jan 08, 2007
SOURCE: icemaker not making ice
First thing to check is to see if the optics are working properly. This is the red flashing light on right hand side of freezer wall. Close the flipper door, be sure not to block the beam, and the light should go to solid red. If it does then the optics are ok. If it continues to blink then that is your problem. If optics check ok then pull ice maker out and remove the white plastic cover. It just pulls off. Look at the center of the gear wheel and see if one of the plastic tabs is either broken or if they are sort of twisted and touching eachother. If any of these things with the gear have happened then that module will need to be replaced along with the ice maker thermostat. If your not sure how to replace these parts then just replace the whole ice maker. That is much easier and not much more costly.
After changing the parts or the ice maker out follow these steps to start the ice maker thru a cycle. 1. Remove the ice maker from the cradle but leave the harness connected. Remove the front cover from the module. Unplug the refrigerator. Get a small jumper wire with bare ends and jump T and H on the module, leave the jumper in and set the ice maker on the shelf. Close the door. Now plug the refer back in and wait 30 seconds. Open the door and the ice-maker should be cycling. Remove the jumper, put the module cover back on and set it back in the cradle. The fill should take place when the ejector blades reach the 12:00 position. Follow these steps exactly in order
Posted on Nov 10, 2007
Turn ice maker off for 24 hours to thaw out any additional frozen lines.
Make sure that you do have water from source to unit. Water valve grit screen may be clogged with debrie or water valve is bad.
Posted on Feb 29, 2008
If you want to replace just the water line going inside the door, you are out of luck. The water line is foamed in place inside the door and is not replaceable without replacing the entire freezer door. If you want to just remove the door, the water line disconnects by pushing the collar on the insta-push fitting toward the center of the fitting while pulling on the tube, all of which is located behind the toe kick plate near the bottom hinge of the freezer door. The same door is used on the PSS26MRSASS, PSS26MRSCSS, PSS26MRSDSS, and the PSS26MRSESS. It is part # WR78X11742 and runs about $500. (note: even if you don't like what you just read, accurate info on your repair question deserves a "FixYa" rating, not just a "helpful" or "thanks for trying".)
Posted on Sep 24, 2008
I just resolved an issue with my kenmore elite side by side refrigerator icemaker (model 106).
It was expensive because I took the long road to fixing the unit myself.
My problem: No water going up to the freezer water dispenser into the icemaker but the water in front of the door working just fine.
-first thing i tried was the simplest. The Internet is clogged with this miracle fix of using a hair dryer to melt the frozen water line going to the dispenser output. This is highly unlikely for our model since the water line is protected within the refrigerator frame.
-2nd thing I replaced my water filter (thinking that there wasn't enough water pressure to trigger the solenoid valve. $40, and still no luck.
-3rd thing was I tested for voltage going to the solenoid. No voltage going to solenoid, so I wasted $30 for a new solenoid.....still no water.
-4th thing was I ordered a new IR sensor and receiver (since the reciever end is where the relay that sends the voltage to the solenoid to turn on and allow water to go up to the dispenser).
My IR sender and receiver appeared to be working flakey.
Installed, still no water. $58 BUCKS ON EBAY (EVERYWHERE ELSE $100+)
-I finally removed the freezer front little white door, I TURNED OFF THE FREEZER SWITCH SO NO VOLTAGE WAS PRESENT, removed the release latch underneath the freezer unit and disconnected, and removed the freezer unit to inspect it further.
When I removed the protective white cover that covers the mechanical wheel, I had a few parts come flying out of it. Turns out that the wheel accessories were damaged. THERE ARE NO REPAIRABLE PARTS ON THE FREEZER UNIT. I FOUND ONE ON EBAY FOR $39 BUCKS + $9 SHIPPING! $48 BUCKS, SWAPPED THE HARNESS AND BOTTOM COVER, AND IN 20 MINUTES, I WAS BACK IN BUSINESS. STARTED MAKING ICE IN ABOUT A HALF HOUR!!!!!
when in doubt, replace the freezer unit for $48 bucks! 7 out of 10 times it will fix your problems. All techs replace the IR set at the same time too which will set you back another $58 bucks.
Good luck! ;)
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
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