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Frigidaire fgfl67dcd I have a frigidaire fgfl67dcd range. The broiler ignitor and the oven ignitor will come on

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Oven not working, but broiler is...

Very well could be. I'm assuming the bake burner is the problem, right? Does the igniter glow at all? If it is glowing, but the burner does not light, is it usually a symptom of an igniter that has become weak. If it does not draw enough current the gas valve will not open and the burner will not light. This is a safety feature to prevent free flowing gas without ignition. If the broil burner is functioning properly, then more than likely the gas valve and regulator are working fine. In most ranges both burners are fed from the same source. You could try swapping igniters between the broil and bake burners to prove the theory. Or, you could just replace the igniter all together. Current readings are as follows: Round shaped glow igniter: 2.7 to 3.2 amps Square shaped glow igniter: 3.2 to 3.7 amps If you can give me the exact model number off your range (usually located around the oven door or on the back of the range) I can give you the correct part number you will need. Most appliance repair stores carry the igniter. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 14, 2007

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: oven quit working

Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.

Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.

You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.

The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.

Please rate and god bless:)

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

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Check out this tip I wrote about this problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

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http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=FGF353BADB&productCategoryId=0124002&brandId=1428&modelName=FRIGIDAIRE-GAS-RANGE---5995274411&diagramPageId=00003&componentDescription=BURNER&documentId=Y2702738&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list

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