Question about Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Thanks for providing the full model number, which allows us to look up part numbers and see exploded views of your product.
Most likely the bake ignitor is bad (even if it still glows, it may not draw enough amperage to allow the gas safety valve to open). One way you can test this on your model is to swap out the broil ignitor for the bake ignitor, as they are the same part number on your model. (part number WB13T10045) The broiler is normally used much less than the oven, so the part does not fail very often on the broiler. You will have to take the cover off the floor of the oven, then the flame spreader, to reach the burner area. The ignitor is the rectangular part at the back, on the side of the burner. (only two wires to deal with) (By the way, for future reference, your model number ends is SS, as in stainless steel, not a 55)
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
I had a similar problem with my Kenmore and it was the Igniter. Cost me about $85.00 for a new one. Sometime on the back of the range there is a little pocket where sometimes a schematic is there and ( I don't know about your Frigidaire) but with my Kenmore it gave troubleshooting info that was very helpful in determining the problem.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
Even though the ignitor glows it does not mean that it is working...sounds crazy but it is true... the ignitor needs to pull a certain amperage to let the gas valve open and as they get older they stop pulling enough current...
Check out this tip I wrote about this problem...
Posted on Mar 05, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 13, 2016 | Electrolux Kitchen Ranges
Hi Chris Stewart - If the bake element and the top of the range works, but just not the heating element, then you possibly have a bad broiler element or connection. However, if you are experiencing other performance difficulties, then the control board may possibly be faulty and needs replacing. Consult a professional for an accurate diagnosis.
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