Question about Dishwashers
If the problem with your dishwasher is not fixed then consider replacing the capacitor on the wash motor. It could be shorting and cutting the circuit breaker. See this manual for location of parts.
Posted on Mar 30, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
FOUND SOLUTION...THE LITTLE CAPACITOR THING THAT SMOOTHS OUT THE FLOW OF ELECTRICITY TO MACHINE WAS BROKE. COST £5.00 FOR GENUINE HOOVER PART. FIXED EASILY TAKES ABOUT 3 MINS.....SORTED
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
Inspect the door gasket. As it ages, the gasket can crack or become hard, preventing it from sealing completely.
If the gasket appears solid, adjust the door latch so the door seals tightly. Loosen the screw that holds the door latch to the cabinet. Push the latch in slightly and retighten the screw. Test the door and readjust the latch if necessary.
Replace the gasket if water continues to leak after you've tightened the latch. Most gaskets are held by compression in a groove on the door or on the dishwasher cabinet.
Pull the old gasket out of its groove, using adjustable pliers (see illustration). Take the gasket to an appliance store to get a replacement.
Soak the new gasket in warm water to soften it, then press it into the groove. Start at the top, then work your way down the sides and across the bottom.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
This is such an easy repair, you'll be shocked and surprised! The reason this is happening is that the computer or timer has detected a "flood" condition and has permanently energized the drain pump to clear the "flood".
What you'll need to fix it...
1.) Shop-Vac (for vacuuming water) with a crevice tool (like one of these)
2.) T20 Torx bit with a driver. Torx sizing here. (You can get a set at Home Depot or Lowes)
All you gotta do now is get down on the floor and remove the kick panel. Then remove the screws holding the water valve and lift it up out of its' plastic holding. Now your shop-vac w/ crevice tool can be used. Stick the crevice tool in there (about 10") and vacuum up all the water that's been trapped in the basin. (you may need a flashlight to see what's going on back in there...) After the water is gone, your DW will work fine.
Here's how it works... About 10" behind the inlet valve is a "float" made of styrofoam. When water gets into the basin, the float rises and eventually trips a "flood condition" switch. This switch shuts the unit down and will only allow the drain pump to operate. So what you want to do is get the water out of the basin.
There may be a reason for the basin flooding, though. Suds (caused by too much (or the wrong) detergent), an actual water leak from the valve, etc... So after you get the water out of there and the unit is working again, you may want to monitor it (like, only run it when someone is home) for a while just to make sure that a real flood does not occur.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
Almost all of the problems mentioned above will be solved by having the owner buy a name brand detergent powder (like Electrosol or Cascade) and using a little less than you think you should.
For those who continue to have problems with poor cleaning, you need to remove the lower spray arm (pull straight up firmly, then out) and then remove the 9 screws that hold the filter in. Using a flashlight, inspect everywhere in the sump area (be careful of broken glass!) Remove all debris and especially look for something blocking the white check valve that is driven by the Vario motor to control the alternation between the upper sprayer arms and the lower arm. Reasemble and test.
If inside dishwasher is a mess with white mineral deposits, recommend you place a bowl filled with white vinegar on the rack of your empty DW. Start a quick cycle with no detergent added.
Check out how clean it is when you are done!
If you have problems after this, please post back what you are seeing.
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
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