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Inglis range elements (x3) work sporadically, and make aweful electrical noises when they are working.

I tried to replace one element, (at a cost of $50) but it didn't solve the problem...they often quit working mid-cooking, and then we have to get a silicon trivet and wiggle the burner about until we hear it make the aweful electrical noises again, and then it works for a bit longer (sometimes for the rest of the meal). I am assuming it is the terminals that are to blame! I want to know, if this sounds correct, and if it is worth replacing the terminals costwise, or if I should just get a new stove?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

KOakaKO
  • 135 Answers

SOURCE: Stove/oven gets hot then shuts off

Shut the breaker off! These are the exact symptoms that a tenant of ours reported for their range. I went to check the range and found that one of the power wires on the terminal block in the back of the range was burning itself up. It had actually started a small wire fire. You need to pull the range out of it's hole and unplug it. Remove the panel in the back above where the cable goes into the range. Examine the power wires and terminal block carefully, because I bet you'll find one of the wires is burning up and needs to be repaired. Please write back and let know what you find.

Posted on Aug 09, 2007

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire electric range

is there voltage going to the erc (electronic range control)?

Posted on Feb 09, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Burner no longer functions

two thiongs, you might have a bad switch( under control knob), or before you try that ck the old elemnt that you replaced, on the back of the limiter( the glass rod that goes through elemnt itlself), you'll see little letters 1a,2a,1b,2b.--- new replacemnets depending on age are wired differently, they too will have 1a2a1b2b but in different position. id check that first

Posted on Mar 03, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: baking element

oh bleep, right? well, if you're lucky this will get you going again. 1. disconnect power to range. 2. remove back metal cover just above range power cord (usually 5 quarter inch hex screws) 3. look for burnt off wire leading to/from bake element. If yes, 4. strip ends of broken wire and splice with ceramic wire nut if no 4. bad news. replace ERC (electronic range control) you fried something on the board. It's got the clock display and all the electronics behind it.

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Dual element burner on glasstop range...inner element stays on

It is the burner control (behind the knob). The triac in the control has failed. $50 item, 10 minute change. Just make note which wire goes to which terminal.

I doubt that it is the control board, as the board has little to do with the stove top, but rather controls the display and the oven temperature/feedback monitoring.

Hope this helps.

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

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1 Answer

ONE DOUBLE BURNER ONLY WORKS ON HIGH NO MATTER WHERE I SET IT


Hello Miguel;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

There are two electrical components that will cause this problem. The most probable cause is the burner element. Each of your burner elements have a independent temperature sensor. The sensor controls the burner element temperature.
25373509-gdidvipt5nahjm0x11drq30d-3-0.jpg
Substitution Part Number: 4453909 Cost: $85.00

This surface element (part number 4453909) is for electric ranges, including Whirlpool electric range model GJC3034RB00.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breakers to disconnect electrical power to the range before replacing the surface element. Wear gloves to protect your hands when replacing surface element on your electric range.
This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to priorparts including 9759351.

OR:
25373509-gdidvipt5nahjm0x11drq30d-3-3.jpg
PART NUMBER: 8523698 Cost: $71.00

The other less likely electrical component is Surface Element Control Switch. Each burner has a independent control switch.

25373509-gdidvipt5nahjm0x11drq30d-3-8.jpg
Cost: $46.00

To check the switch: Remove the switch 2 contacts on the left. With a multi-meter, set the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). Put one meter lead on one switch contact and the other meter lead on the other contact. If the switch is good you meter will read "0" Ohms.

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