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Fridge freezer stopped working

Not freezing fridge cold fan stopped working in freezer light still on in fridge.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge too cold

There is a damper motor that is behind the vent where you feel the cold air coming out in the fridge section.  That damper should open and close after making temp. adjustments.  See if you can look in the vent and see if it is wide open.  Set your freezer on the coldest setting and check this vent again an hour or so later.  If it is still wide open then that damper motor is bad.  Let me know if you find something different or have any questions.

Posted on Oct 10, 2007

  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: Our beko frost free fridge

the thermostat in the fridge is turning off your compressor before the freezer has completed its job.this is because it doesnt care about the freezer temperature only the temperature where its located in this case the fridge,try completely defrosting the fridge and restarting it

Posted on Aug 13, 2008

deby69
  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool side by side freezer not working fridge is fine

Pull out the fridge and unplug. Remove the back cover. Clean the condenser coils and fan. If they're difficult to get to, use compressed air to blow out. (you can get a can from walmart). That should fix the problem. If that doesn't work, then write back.
Doug

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: frige light on not cooling,freezer fan working but not freezing

Hello there. Let me see if I can assist you.

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Posted on May 27, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel N500B fridge freezer. Freezer not freezing

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Posted on Oct 28, 2009

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The freezer side does not freeze on the top shelf. The refrigerator freezes everything in the bottom but reads 47 degrees and doesn't cool the top shelves. The fan under the fridge runs fine.


Behind the back wall of the freezer about halfway down, probably behind the light bulb (if there is one there) there is a fan. My guess is that the fan isn't working, or is slow. To test, open the freezer door, then hold the door switch closed and listen for the fan.

This fan should be blowing air up the back of the freezer, and send some of the cold air through a vent at the top of the freezer into the fridge. The air then descends through the fridge and reenters the freezer through a vent at the bottom. If the fan is broken, or if the upper vent is somehow blocked or broken, the cold air will enter (rather than exit) the fridge side at the bottom vent. Because cold air tends to descend and warm air rises, the cold air will freeze the stuff at the bottom of the fridge, and the thermostat (at the top of the fridge) will say it is warm.

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Maytag msd2456dew not cooling / not freezing after noisy fan


my Matytag msd2456dew fridge fan is running, no ice bulid up on coils in freezer section, but no cold air to freeze anything in freezer section or cold air in fridge section. what can be the problem?
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Feb 15, 2009 | Maytag Refrigerators

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FREEZER IS COLD BUT NOT FREEZING WELL,FRIDGE IS NOT AS COLD AS IT SHOULD BE


Your freezer fan has stopped working or jammed. It's also possible that your defrost timer has stopped working and that the airways in the freezer are clogged with ice and the air can't circulate to the fridge. One of the two. Good Luck!!

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Our beko frost free fridge freezer has stopped freezing. The fan is working and the freezer section cold but not cold enough. Thermostat is in the fridge - the fridge is icing up.


the thermostat in the fridge is turning off your compressor before the freezer has completed its job.this is because it doesnt care about the freezer temperature only the temperature where its located in this case the fridge,try completely defrosting the fridge and restarting it

Aug 12, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Viking Imperial Fridge... Purchased in early 90's


what is the stat set to ? A common problem with bottle coolers that work the same way, is people turn the stat to high ( very cold). This then drops the evaporator temperature so low it freezes up, in turn this stops the airflow and the ice build up worsens until you get the result you have, a warm fridge due to no airflow at all. It could be short of gas as this can cause it. A faulty defrost heater / timer can also cause it if its fitted as can a faulty fan that stops spinning. Due to the age of the unit I would try turning the stat back to 3/4 and see how that goes. it will get cold but will be more gradual, but hopefully shouldn't freeze up.

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could be due to ice build up jamming the fan. take back panel off and check for ice. if ice present the defrost system has failed. also on some models, the fan stops when door is opened. check door switch is operating

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