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Ge true temp oven

Ge true temp model jtp15boa3bb. Built in with cooktop above oven. Temp is off by 50 degrees. I have the oven probe replacement but can't seem to get wire out to get to the wire connectors to replace. HELP!!

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Sometimes you will have to pull the oven out to get access to the connector for the sensor. It could be jammed in the back or the hole is just too small to pull the connector through the wall.

Posted on Mar 02, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: GE Model JTP15 oven shows F3 error code

I have the same problem. I noticed that the oven gets to the selected temp ok. Then when the pilot attempts to RELIGHT, it gets the error F3. Did you get a solution? After other posts, I will see if the temp sensor is around 1100 ohm as suggested by others. Ken

Posted on Sep 24, 2007

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: GE True Temp Oven Timer Instructions

go to this web site put in your model number and you can download the whole use and care manual http://www.geappliances.com/ just look for the search box half way down on left select use and care then put in the model number

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile -Installed wall oven - won't heat

brand new??? under a year old??? if so you have a warr call for service, but it sounds like an ignitor isssue, brand new , perhapsgot damaged in shipping 1-800-ge-cares

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: GE True Temp oven won't turn off.

The sensor is a part number WB23T10002 and goes for about $60. The paper inside the control area of the oven will state the normal resistance values of it. (probably about 1080 ohms at room temp, about 2650 at clean temp.) If you cut a lead to it, you would just get a F3 code, and if you cut the other and wire them together, just get a F4 code, so that wouldn't help diagnose the problem, but if you could use an ohm meter on the probe it would. BUT the oven should not come on without it being set to bake, SO I conclude that the ERC is indeed the problem (with the welded electrical contacts), which is a part number WB50T10043 which might go for about $125 or so. If you are careful when you replace it, you can probably peal the faceplate (part # WB27T10125) off and reuse it, so you should just need the ERC.

Posted on May 07, 2009

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: my GE true temp has the error code F7 EC. I cannot

Please, don't replace anything, stop letting people rip you off, try this! The insulation in the ribbon cable is poor. The conductors in the cable are crossed. The ribbon cable is actually two ribbons pressed together, and the conductors between the two cables are shorting or becomming crossed. Lift the two cables apart, place a piece of paper between them, fold the edges of the paper over the cable so that it does not slip out, and make sure to shove it all the way down to where it will meet the plastic display panel housing. There, problem solved.

Posted on Nov 24, 2009

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Hi.


If both baking and broiling element do not heath above a certain temperature instead, then the part to be replaced is the temperature probe, still located inside the oven cavity.


If the part that is not heating is only one element, then you may need to replace the element.
Before replacement the element can be tested removing it from the cavity and reading Ohms at the element terminals, with a multimeter set at Rx1. Disconnect power before removing the element.
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GE True Temp oven won't turn off.


The sensor is a part number WB23T10002 and goes for about $60. The paper inside the control area of the oven will state the normal resistance values of it. (probably about 1080 ohms at room temp, about 2650 at clean temp.) If you cut a lead to it, you would just get a F3 code, and if you cut the other and wire them together, just get a F4 code, so that wouldn't help diagnose the problem, but if you could use an ohm meter on the probe it would. BUT the oven should not come on without it being set to bake, SO I conclude that the ERC is indeed the problem (with the welded electrical contacts), which is a part number WB50T10043 which might go for about $125 or so. If you are careful when you replace it, you can probably peal the faceplate (part # WB27T10125) off and reuse it, so you should just need the ERC.

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