Question about Plumbing
This is a Riva Flo pump connected to a small water tank of 3300 litres. Attempts to turn on results in no pumping of water and the failure light is on
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Not too familiar with this model but.... First some questions! Has the fault started after the pipes & rad replaced or were they replaced to remedy problem? If fault happened since work then i'd suggest an air lock in the system in which case you will need to 'bleed' the system of air. Make sure the expansion tank is the highest point & look for any bleed valves on the hoses - usually near the heater matrix. Sometimes it may be necessary to help the process by removing the temperature guage sender unit to allow the air to escape as air cannot pass through a closed thermostat. If the fault was there before, does the expansion tank seem to build up pressure very quickly? Do lots of air bubbles appear with the engine running & the pressure cap off?
Posted on Aug 22, 2008
Here's alink, scroll down side to 2.4L, click on pictures to expand/enlarge .
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
SOURCE: Secondary air supply failure
I have a 2005 Envoy with a 4.2..... Just recently the check engine light illuminated so I read the code after replacing the 20amp fuse labeled cigar. My OBDII connection had no power so if you plug your reader in and nothing check the fuse under the hood labeled "cigar"
After pulling the code P0410 Secondary Air Injection Malfunction I checked the operation of the air pump by removing the hose connected to the solenoid. By the way the solenoid is located on the pass side of the engine top towards the back. After pulling the hose off the solenoid I started the vehicle when it was cold and after 20 seconds or so the pump should turn on and blow air out of the hose. Once I verified the pump was operating I pulled the solenoid then placing jumpers from the Positive & Negative of the battery to the pins on the solenoid. You should be able to hear the solenoid click which says its operating. But mine did nothing so I read across the pins with an Ohm meter and verified the coil was good.
So take some good penetrating oil and fill the inside of the valve with it. You can see the plunger shaft assy in the opening and thats the area you want to fill with a good penetrating oil!!!! Let it sit for a couple of hours keeping it full of oil. The housing is aluminum and the shaft is likely to be a brass material so rust is not possible. Its caused by a buildup of carbon!! The penetrating oil will soften the carbon which in turn will free up the plunger!! MINE WORKS GREAT NOW and plus you will save around $140.00 if you were to buy it from the dealer!!! Or $80.00 aftermarket from RockAuto.com
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
The tank is an air tank, it works like a cushon and accumulator.
Have you reconnceted the pump? If not fill the pipe that goes to the well with water. It should not drain down, there should be a foot valve that prevents the water from running back into the well. So if the foot valve is working it should not take a lot of water to do this.
Pour water into the suction side of the pump until the pump is as full as you can get it, reconnect the pump and start it up. Yes it does need to be primed
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
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