Question about Fisher and Paykel Active Smart E522B Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Temperature sensors The fridge compartment is not maintaining a cold temperature. I defrosted the fridge and dismantled the front fan cover and the panel that contains the fan. I can see two temperature sensors. I know the white sensor must pass through holes in the covers and project into the freezer compartment. I suspect the black sensor has come adrift from somewhere and may be my problem. Can you advise where it should be located...perhaps inside the vents to the fridge?

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I have an E402 fridge (403 litre model with freezer on bottom) . I just dismantled the freezer back wall due to a bad defroster element and noticed that on the back wall of the freezer is a small raised "cavity" or "slot" that the black thermostat fits into nicely. In my fridge, it is above the Collins coil and a bit to the right of centre(closer to the wire entry hole). Hope this helps

Posted on Feb 17, 2014

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I have an E402 fridge (403 litre model with freezer on bottom) . I just dismantled the freezer back wall due to a bad defroster element and noticed that on the back wall of the freezer is a small raised "cavity" or "slot" that the black thermostat fits into nicely. In my fridge, it is above the Collins coil and a bit to the right of centre(closer to the wire entry hole). Hope this helps

Posted on Feb 17, 2014

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SOURCE: Fridge and Freezer losing cooling

we bought a f&p fridge freezer and in summer noticed it wasn't cooling and the freezer wasn't freezing, when the service guy came out he noticed our ducted air con was blowing onto the fridge, once we had redirected the air con outlet the fridge started working as normal, apparently f&p's work on air being convected around the cabinet of the fridge and air blowing on the fridge can effect the temperature of the convected air. hope this helps you or someone

Posted on Dec 10, 2007

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SOURCE: Fisher Paykel Fridge Freezer

I have a Fisher and Paykel E442B upside down, which is a very similar model, and I just fixed the same problem (temperature was around -4C even though I set the fridge temperature as warm as possible).

The cause of my problem was excessive ice build up on the side of the evaporator coil (which is in the back of the freezer compartment behind the rear plastic panel). I had the same problem around a year or so ago, so I expect it to be a regular occurence. To defrost the coil, I removed all the drawers in the freezer, and the plastic insert by pulling out the bottom of the panel out and rotating it upwards until it released at the top. There are a couple of snap-in tabs holding the panel in, so with a bit of pulling they released. The tabs are either side of the slot at the bottom of the panel.

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I then supported the panel horizontally on the top shelf so that I didn't have to disconnect the thermostat wire and the circulating fan wire.
52de81a.jpg With a small fan heater set on low, aimed roughly at the ice buildup on the left hand side of the evaporator coil, I defrosted the ice built up. This took around 2 hours or so. Then put it all back together and it worked fine.

I'm not sure why the ice build up on the side caused the problem, but presumably it interferes with the proper flow of cold air to the fridge compartment.

If you don't seem to have ice build up like I did, then it could be a thermostat problem, or a fan problem (a symptom of which would be fridge being colder at the bottom than at the top).

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

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SOURCE: F&P Active Smart E521TRE Removing freezer back panel

My fridge (E440T but I believe the E522B is similar) had a broken fan wire and i had to pull off the rear panel and re-solder a wire. I created a document for others to follow that shows the rear panel removal if interested at http://www.accentis.com.au/downloads/misc/How I fixed my Fisher and Paykel Fridge Active Smart Fridge.pdf

Thanks to all postings on this site - it really helped a lot.

Posted on Nov 17, 2008

BIKER T
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SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel Freezer

Very possible the door was accidently left open for a period of time. When that happens, moisture latches on to different areas which inturn creates ice build up. In short, do a good defrost and then restart freezer again.

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you. Freezer defrosted and working again!"

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Outside door handle loose - how do I remove inside panel to tighten handle?

I had the same problem with this model. Bluntcow is correct, 2.5mm hex screw at the bottom of the handles (the top one is a fair way in).

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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I have a Britannia nabraska side by side fridge freezer. All of a sudden the freezer compartment is not cold enough as though the door had been left open - but 24 hours later has not got colder


You may have a bad thermostat or you could just be frosted over inside. You'll need to look behind the back panel in the freezer for syntoms if unplugging to defrost doesn't work.

Mar 23, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The freezer is running and cold, the refrigerator seems to be getting warmer like as if the cold isn't transferring. Is there a fan suppose to be running or what?


It is quite common for a refrigerator to begin the first signs of a defrost problems once he fresh Food section begins to warm. Auto Dampers are an additional component to check while searching for the true reason for Fresh Food compartment warming. First look inside the freezer compartment and and see if there is a layer of frost building on the rear wall. If yes you will need to manually defrost unless you have anothr place to store the freezer goods. Unplug refrigerator and then remove the rear panel of freezer to get a good look at the snow covering your evaporator coils. Defrost with a hair drier. Now we need to look for the cause Auto Damper, Click here for the photo location of these parts=> MSD2756GEW Controls Section the adaptive defrost control is most likely the problem and is listed in the photo as location 13 and the auto damper

61005971 Damper Control Assembly

61005988 Adaptive Defrost Assembly
sea_breeze_232.jpg sea_breeze_233.jpg

The Auto Damper model refrigerator has two controls and both have capillary sensing.

The Auto Damper controls the fresh food temperature and the Freezer Temperature
Control guides the freezer temperature. The fresh food compartment temperature is maintained by a damper assembly located at the back of the temperature control housing. Changes in air temperature cause the damper door to open and close. A control rod and gear connect the fresh
food control knob to the damper control.

Turning the fresh food control knob to the coldest position increases the flow of freezer air into the fresh food section. The freezer compartment temperature control warms at a faster rate and cools at a slower rate, increasing the compressor run time necessary to maintain a satisfied freezer temperature control.

Click Here=> Here is how to test a Maytag MSD2756GEW Auto Damper

There is always other possiilities but I see two other things that may cause this and that is the defrost heater with defrost Thermostat=> 61006199 Defrost Heater Assembly

I know this was long and possibly confusing but please ask if you should have questions or one on one assistance, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Sep 14, 2011 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Fridge is running but not getting cold. Line underneath feels very cold but air coming in fridge is not cold. Fan under the freezer and fridge is running.


Hi

If refrigerator is not cooling properly it can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer is bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to a bad defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.
1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Jul 17, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have just purchased the above unit and has been plugged in now for 24hrs with no food, the high humidity warning sign Is illuminated constantly Is this correct?? Also I have yet to witness the operation...


You didn't include a manufacturer or model, so I can only offer general help with your problem. If you choose to provide this info later, you may get better, more specific help. The freezer compartment contains the cooling coil for the freezer and fresh food compartments. This fan in many fridges are not visible - but yours may be. Yours may also have circulation fans specifically for moving air around the fresh food compartment.

Generally, the coil is located in a protected area of the freezer (behind the back panel). The fan is arranged to pull air from the freezer floor through the coil to be cooled and blown out the top of the freezer compartment. Openings between the freezer and fresh food compartment allows a portion of the cold air to be blown into the fresh food compartment.

The first thing to do is to see what the temperatures are in both compartments. The fresh food should be about 36 degrees and freezer -10 to 0 degrees Fahrenheit. Place a glass thermometer (capable of displaying 32 degrees and up) in a glass filled with cold tap water, and place in the fresh food compartment. Place another thermometer in the freezer (capable of reading -10 and up). You can also use thermometers designed for fridge / freezer temperatures if you wish.

If there is nothing in the fridge and the door remains shut, the temperature should be seen in an hour or so. If the temperature range is obtainable, it is not likely that there is a humid condition INSIDE the fridge. You may have moisture collecting on the OUTSIDE of the fridge near doors, etc. If so, locate a humidity switch and turn it on. Many manufacturers provide this switch to turn on electric heaters in the outer part of the fridge cabinet where moisture tends to form in humid climates. These heaters operate to evaporate the moisture on the cabinet and usually come on when the freezer defrost circuit is on.

I hope this helps and good luck!

May 16, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator warm freezer too cold


If you have already adjusted the controls for temperatures in both compartments and allowed 12 - 24 hours to stabilize and the trend is continuing, there may be a problem with the fans that move the cold air from the freezer to the fresh food compartment. The fridge may also start allowing temperatures to rise in the freezer soon, too.

All of these problems originate in the freezer compartment, where the cooling is done. Behind the back wall; inside the freezer - lies the cooling coils, defrost heater, circulating fan(s) and defrost terminator sensor. Unplug the fridge. Empty the contents of the freezer, remove the ice maker assembly and the back wall plate and you should see these components. If it looks like a large block of snow and ice, the problem is with the defrost circuit components. If clear with a minimal amount of frost, the warm fridge is the result of blocked or limited airflow from this area to the fresh food compartment - likely a failed circulating fan. Plug the fridge back in and check to see if the fan is running - since the fridge is warm, it should be running. The fan or the thermostat will probably need replacing if it is not.

If icing or frost is the problem, you'll need to isolate and replace one or more of the following: defrost heater, defrost terminator or defrost timer. The last two are the usual suspects for this type of failure - but the heating element can fail too. Many times, the defrost timer is accessible from the front of the fridge, behind the kick plate below the freezer door on the right side. Other times it is located in or near the temperature control area.

Good luck!

Jun 18, 2010 | Amana ABB2224DEW / ABB2224DEQ / ABB2224DEB...

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The inside of the refrigerator is not staying cold. The freezer does stay cold. How do I fix the inside temperature so it will keep the food cold?


If any part of the automatic defrosting system isn't working, the evaporator will turn into an iceberg and no cold air will circulate into the lower compartment.

Possible causes in that case could be the defrost timer, the defrost thermostat ("bimetal"), the defrost heater, the defrost thermal fuse (if there is one), or the wiring and plugs connecting them.

Removing the back panel of the freezer compartment should reveal the iceberg and allow you to defrost it with a hair dryer or fan. Then you can get at the parts to test them (except the defrost timer, which may be down by the compressor).

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1 Answer

Frigidaire model ftr18b freezer works, fridge is only cool


Info relating specifically to the Frigidaire FRT18B5ABB:

1.Refrigerator unplugged remove the bottom back panel. (Access cover with label. The rectangular shaped panel on the back, at the bottom) Place the screws in a container.
Also remove the Kickplate Grille in the front, and the defrost pan.

2.Use the wand tip on your vacuum cleaner, and vacuum this area out. Pay special attention to the condenser coils, and the fan. Use care as you don't want to bend the fan blades. After you have vacuumed up as much as possible, see if your vacuum has where you can attach the hose to blow air through it. An air compressor, hose, and air nozzle would be REAL handy right now! Blow the condenser coils, and all areas clean of any gunk. (Hair, spider webs, etc.) If this is not feasible for you, you'll need some sort of long, thin, dust 'bunny', and have to dislodge this 'gunk' physically. Then vacuum.

3.BE SURE to replace the bottom back panel, (Access Cover)! It is a VERY necessary item! If your fridge doesn't have one at present, make a temporary one of cardboard, and tape it on. This access cover is needed.

If your refrigerator side is only cool, and your freezer is cold, you may have a problem with the Cold Control, (Temperature Control), or the Defrost Timer. (Timer-Defrost)
http://disruptit.com/manualgateway.cfm?pdfwanting=34242&username=anon&AV=123345&I=99.169.118.45

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Does outside temperature affect performance of freezer


Top mount refrigerator installed in a garage and the food in the freezer is defrosting when
the temperature in the garage goes below 55 degrees fahrenheit.
On top mount refrigerators you cycle the compressor and fan/fans from the food
compartment temperature. When the room temperature gets colder than 55 F, you have
long off times waiting for the food compartment to warm enough to trip the cold control.
This long off time is allowing the freezer temperature to get high enough that food can start
to defrost.
There is a kit for refrigerators installed in applications where the temperature can go as low
as 34 F and still maintain good freezer temperatures. The kit part number is 5303918301
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Kit 5303918301 contains:
Part # 5303950194 Instruction sheet
Part # 241532101 Heater

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1 Answer

Bosch KGU32160 fridge freezer


The compressor behind the fridge should cycle on and off as the machine maintains temperature, but the evaporator fan inside the freezer will keep running, except when the fridge goes into defrost. If the noise is coming from the fan inside the freezer, there could be some ice on the frame of the fan and the blades are touching the ice. If the noise is coming from behind the fridge it could be the condensor fan motor. This fan is situated behind the fridge in front of or next to the compressor. It keeps the condensor cool by blowing air onto it. Check this fan. The blades could be touching the pipework or something.

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5 Answers

Refrigerator not cooling Freezer is fine


The defrost drain is blocked..This is where the water goes to in the bottom of your freezer when it goes through the defrost (removal of ice from the freezer coil) cycle.Seems like it is blocked with water or ice.
Unplug the refrigerator, empty out the freezer compartment
pull off the back panel or the bottom panel (in the freezer compartment) Look for that defrost drain hole..
pour small amounts of HOT tap water onto it and then sopping/absorbing it away with a sponge or dishcloth. Repeat this until I get the water to go down the drain tube..
Hope this works..
Regards,
Eagle.

Oct 19, 2007 | Refrigerators

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