Question about Bosch 24 in. SHU68 Built-in Dishwasher

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Timer stuck on 10 and other issues

Running our Bosch dishwasher SHU6805UC on "quick wash" the timer counts down to "10" and then stays there forever and we have to cancel the cycle.  Any ideas??

We also seem to have a leak when the dishwasher is just sitting there I am attributing this to the timer not completing the cycle and water finds a way to leak out.  Or it could be that the inlet valve is letting water and the dishwasher fills to the point that it can leak out??

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4 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Bosch dishwasher won't shut off. The timer says

Bosch SHE44C06UC
The dishwasher continues to run...I followed instructions and performed the diagnostic...the light above the quick wash was solid, the light above the rinse/hold was flashing...the code displayed in the cycle countdown window was P0...now assuming the machins isn't "pissed-off"..can you help-

Posted on May 03, 2009

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DrakeTech
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: I have a bosch dishwasher shu6805uc/u06 to long to wash.

Well not going into the dry cycle could be a timing issue or a EOC (control panel) issue and will need to be addressed. But most dishwashers these days have a active run time during normal cycle of 110 to 120 mins, and thats not including the heated dry feature. I would let the unit run and see if it will finish on its own, and if I say it pushes two and half hours then something is wrong. A tech would most likely have to look at it, also a power reset could help but thats like a 30% chance.

DrakeTech

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: My Bosch SHU66C is not filling with water. Timer

HI. First you will need to make sure you are getting water to the dishwasher. Check to see if the water shut-off valve (located under the sink) is open. If you are receiving water to the dishwasher, but there is still no water inside during the fill cycle, the problem might be with a faulty water valve (located at the bottom of the dishwasher, behind the kick panel, on either side), in which case the valve should be inspected and replaced, if needed. Us the procedure below to guide you through the inspection process.

To access the inlet valve remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel. The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it. One hose will lead from the valve to the pump/motor assembly in the center of the dishwasher. Check that the hoses are securely connected to the valve and that there are no kinks in the hoses which could restrict water flow. There are two wires (four, if it has two solenoids) connected to the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. If your valve has two solenoids, test the second one in the same way as the first.

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

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