Cuisinart DLC7 has the sheath that holds the blades stuck in the wrong position because it was the wrong part, how to remove?

Yes it does. It is a snug fit on the blade shaft, if you mean the tall shaft that powers the shredder discs? The short one that holds the cutting blade is not removable.

The tall stem is shown here

Cuisinart DLC-8 Detachable Stem
Item # 943070

https://www.kitchenworksinc.com/cuisinart-food-processor-parts/cuisinart-dlc-8-parts/

..

my friend if you had not removed that blade for a while it will certainly stuck due to the moisture that forms on the shaft of the blade holder causing it to have corosion you will have to carry that item to be removed by a qualified tech by you doing it your self could cause damage,which could cost you more.good luck

Help! My Cuisinart is Stuck! - Chowhound

www.chowhound.com/post/cuisinart-stuck-353459

Dec 21, 2006 - Read the Help! My Cuisinart is Stuck! discussion from the Chowhound food community. ... The lid seems stuck and won't come off. I've tried pressing down,... Make sure all the buttons are in the neutral position. Reply ... In case of clarification- Turn the lid back on before unlocking, then twist off. Reply.

How to remove a stuck Kitchenaid Food Processor Blade (blade in ...

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Aug 25, 2009 - Now the blade in the smaller bowl (4 cup) does not come off the bowl.... UNless i take out the 4 cup bowl blade, it doesnt allow me to remove the bowl ... I've used the screwdriver method for years in my shop with nearly 100% ...

The shaft is spinning inside the sleeve. So is should not be hard to remove. With a DLC-7SP, I grabbed the spindle with some pliers, channel locks might do well and put a handle of a screwdriver between the pliers and the top deck and pried. Second attempt and it pulled up easily. Place the screwdriver beside one of the top deck screw covers to transfer force directly to the motor. Otherwise top deck would probably break.

Clean the old shaft to remove any contamination.

New one can be driven on with a hammer and block of wood.

Hello. Go to this link http://www.cuisinart.com/support/us.html

there u have all of the contact info. Call customer care at Cuisinart and they will assist you directly. J.

First off, is it a BLADE that's stuck, or a DISC?
If it's a disc, and the disc is blocking your access to the center post, put a ziploc baggie full of ice on top of the disc (right in the middle) and let it sit for about half an hour. That should shrink the plastic enough to pop it out.

If it's a blade, you can try the ice trick, or you can try Pam (or another food grade cooking spray) to loosen it up, and then just try to take the workbowl off like you usually would (aka, DO NOT grab the blade, or you'll risk cutting yourself--you can just pull up on the bowl, and the blade should pop off.

If you need further help, you can always contact Cuisinart--their phone number (according to their website, www.cuisinart.com ) is 1 800 726 0190



Good luck! :)

I had the same problem: Cuisinart sent a "replacement" sheath for my DLC-8E which turned out to be the wrong one. When I replaced mine,which was cracked, none of my blades would fit over the new sheath! I "solved" the problem by purchasing a new DLC-8E motor base on Ebay for only $9.99!

The DLC-8 blades and the DLC-7 blades are not compatible. To attach the stem, first attach the stem to one of the compatible blades - the stem should day "DLC-7" for the DLC-7 blades - by inserting the first two tabs of the stem into the first two ridges of the blade connector - the left-most tab should be sticking out past the end of the blade connector - then slide the stem into place so that all tabs fit securely into the blade connector. Next, place the end with the blade up and insert the stem into the middle of the workbowl. There is a video for all Cuisinart food processors on the Cuisinart website.

-Tha Mp3 Doctor

I have a DLC 7 pro circa 1982 - just replaced the sheath. First - remove old sheath - I found that using a plumbers pipe cutter to cut old sheath off in sections then pulling each section off with pliers works great. Make sure ALL the plastic comes off the metal shaft - as well as the brass ring portion of the sheath.

Next use a sharpie marker to mark the the "flat" side of the shealth = you must look inside the sheath, find the 2 "nubs" that form a "flat" side. These nubs must line up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft - mark the base of the shaft as well so you can more easily line up the flat of the sheath with the flat side of the shaft (and no, the flat outer sides of the the sheath do not match up with the flat inside section of the sheath - that would make life too easy!)

Press the new sheath on with your hand as far as it goes - should go down to about 1 inch from the base.

Now you need a hammer, piece of 2 x4 wood and brute strenght! (keep in mind that once you hammer it - even once - it will NOT come off) Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath - Use a LOT of force to hammer the sheath all the way down. will probably take 3 - 5 good strikes. It will take much more force than you think you should need to use. Make sure the base of shaft is as far down as possible - if it rubs against the workbowl while spinning it will fuse to the bowl! Good luck! -

On the DLC 7 Pro cuisinart the blade was removed by removing
the plastic bottom. Make sure the unit is unplugged. Remove the four rubber pads on the bottom. This was the hardest part because the pads are glued so securely that the inner rubber surface tears as it's removed. I used two flat blade screwdrivers and worked carefully, back and forth. Using a #2 philips, remove the four screws. Place the unit on its side and while inserting a screwdriver between a spoke and the motor frame gently turn the blade counter clockwise. Be careful not to put pressure against the cooling fins. Very little pressure was needed and the blade came right out. I might have been able to hold the shaft from turning without removing the bottom, by going through the vent slots in the bottom, but I was concerned with cracking the plastic. To replace the rubber pads I matched the design of the torn rubber pad with the shape (design) of the surface glued rubber and used thin two-sided tape.