Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator
I have noticed that the ice maker does not fill up all the way when making ice as a result the cubes get stuck when dumping. Now the Black Line that in the back of the freezer just behind the ice maker is freezing and pushing the line out and leaking water on the floor. I have turned the unit off completely and thawed it out completely and it took about 2 day to start leaking again. i have changed the filter recently.
Posted by Anonymous on
The problem here is your water valve. It does not shut off all the way and allows very slow water flow through the water line. It is so small that it freezes in the supply tube causing a blockage. When your ice maker calls for water the pressure from the blockage pops the line out causing your leak.
You need to replace your water valve. Dual valve at the back of the fridge.."water inlet valve")
Posted on Jul 18, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I found that the door on the GE side by side doors are not accessable and cannot be repaired if a water line inside the door is defective. The entire door must be replaced at a cost of almost $370. The problem, which seems to be quite common relative to the lack of water at the dispenser, is the result of the water tube in the door freezing due to excess cold levels in the freezing compartment. This is probabley due to poor insulation around the water line as in exits near the ice dispenser gate. The solution is simple, lower the freezing level and use water frequently to keep it from freezing. Also, keep the lines clean by changing the filter often if the local water source is laden with particulates. I think GE should foot the bill for changing doors or re-engineer the doors to access the area where the water line makes contact with the cold surface of the inside panal.
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
using an hairdryer or defrosting the unit completely , this often get
rid of blockage caused by frozen lines fixing the problem.
The water lines can also be unblocked from dirt using a thin flexible shaft. This after defrosting.
If all that does not fix the problem, then you may need to replace the water valve, the icemaker solenoid, or the whole icemaker assembly.
Enter the model number on one of two websites below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance:
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Posted on May 22, 2009
all is normal with the defrost heater getting red hot.
as far as the inlet tube freezing, you most likely need a new water inlet valve. it may not be closing all the way and water is slowly dripping into the icemaker and freezing up right away. a new valve should fix your issue. here is the part that you need. http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-TFH27PRSA-%3d%3di1032629&PartID=1032629
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
You made this statement:
I have to manually make the ice dump. 2) I now have a slight build up of ice under the ice maker where it appears the water from the ice tray is leaking and the inside of the freezer also has a slight build up of frost on the walls.
From my 40 years of experience that statement is telling me that the freezers' evaporator coils are blocked with ice. (i.e frost on the walls) When the coils become blocked or built up with ice everything APPEARS to be working fine but the actual freezer temp is above 17 deg F. An ice maker will not initiate an ice-harvest cycle until the temps are between 14 - 16 Deg F. I.e it is not cold enough to automatically make ice because the ice maker thermostat is not closing at 14 - 16 deg F to start the ice harvest.
So I will pose these questions for you and answer them:
Q? What causes the ice on the walls
A: The unit is not defrosting properly.
Q? What causes a refrigerator to not defrost properly?
A: There are several; reasons that a refrigerator will not automatically defrost
1. The defrost control has failed (Most common failure)
2. The defrost heating element has failed
3. The defrost thermostat has failed
4. A wiring problem in the defrost circuit
Now.... you also made this statement:
I now have a slight build up of ice under the ice maker where it appears the water from the ice tray is leaking
You may have a leaking ice tray but it is quite rare. What usually causes an ice build up directly under and ice maker is the inlet water valve leaking / bypassing water when it is supposed to be shut off. An inlet water valve will bypass water when the internal diaphragm fails or debris is blocking the needle seat of the diaphragm. Either way the only remedy is to replace the inlet water valve because the valves are NOT repairable.
Reach inside your freezer and squeeze the rubber tube that fills the ice maker with water. If there is a problem with the inlet water valve the rubber tube starts freezing up with ice. Eventually when the rubber tube is totally frozen the plastic tube on the back of the refrigerator that connects to the rubber tube either leaks or separates from the rubber tube and ports water onto the floor.
If you really want to prove that there is a problem with the inlet water valve turn the ice maker OFF. Remove the plastic tube from the rubber ice maker fill tube (Just pulls out) and place it in a bucket overnight. IF you note water in the bucket the next day then the inlet water valve has for sure failed. Sometimes they LEAK intermittently when the failure first begins so the bucket test may not reveal a leaking inlet water valve. The key here is you said you have water UNDER the ice maker and you suspect a tray leak.
Here is what I recommend you do after the overnight plastic tube in a bucket leakage / bypassing test:
1. Reinstall the plastic tube on to the rubber fill tube.
2. Turn the ice maker ON
3. UNPLUG the refrigerator and so a manual defrost by removing the freezer contents then directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess)
4. Return the unit to normal service
5. Check for ice production 6 - 8 hours after you performed the manual defrost.
If you have automatic ice production you most likely have and automatic defrosting problem... BUT.... there can be a problem with the freezer door / light switch. The door light switch is a 3 contact switch. One contact is a common power wire and the other 2 contacts turn on the light and provide power to the ice maker (and some times the evaporator fan also depending on unit design)
Test the door light switch amd make sure the light will go off when the door is closed. (depress the plunger) If the light stays on the door switch is bad.
Hopefully you have enough information to understand what is happening with your refrigerator and what the causes of the symptoms you have are.
I think in the end you will have to repair the automatic defrost problem and replace the inlet water valve. Do not forget about testing the door light switch.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Posted on Apr 14, 2011
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