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They do not make it available. So a generic wirefeed such as this http://www.northerntool.com/downloads/manuals/628575.pdf will be reasonably close.
Rarely will the circuit board schematic be shown. If however your wire feed circuit stopped, usually it is the SCR's that fail and they can be replaced with comparable units, or even higher voltage and current ratings than the original within reason. http://www.digikey.com is a global vendor.
Do you mean you wants to get the schematic diagram of Philips Magnavox Tv circuit of PT series? I've with me that schematic for 20PT6245 [B-1] chasis. If you are interested in getting the same, send me a mail to my email address given below, as I can't upload it through this site. It is in Adobe Acrobat document format. All PT series will be similar with some minute diifferences. OK email@example.com
A schematic would certainly help, give Hobart a call and ask for a wiring diagram. or manual. Hobart are very helpful and may even give you guidance, you may have to pay the postage, they usually fax these documents so it will not cost you anything.
You don't say why you need schematics. Most of the stuff that you need to know to install, use, and understand the welder is covered in the operator manual. You can get one at this web page.
There is also a copy of the schematic diagram on the inside cover of most Miller welders. Please be careful if you're not familiar with high current power supplies, you could get hurt pretty badly in the blink of an eye.
You don't say what model welder you have, some Miller welders have 3 slip rings and brushes some have just 2. In either case the next step is to use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the rotor and brush assembly. If this is a 2 slip ring model, take one of the wires off of one of the brushes then measure the resistance between the 2 brush terminals - it should be something between 10 and 100 ohms. If you get an open circuit measure the resistance from one slip ring to the other right at the slip rings - if you now get something other than an open you've got bad brushes (about $10 each to replace),
The 3 slip ring models are similar but have 2 rotor windings - take off the wire from the middle brush and measure from it to each of the ends.
If your rotor and brushes checked out OK you should next check the fuse in the exciter circuit, this will be on the block where the other end of the brush wires go.
If the fuse was good you need to do an excitation test. This is a bit dangerous so be careful. Look at the schematic pasted inside the case and figure out which brush is the positive (+) one. The wires are numbered and so is the schematic so this isn't as hard as it might seem. Disconnect the wires from both brushes (all 4 wires in the 3 slip ring model) and tape them off so you won't get shocked. Get a 9V battery or make up jumpers that will let you connect the welder battery to the brushes. Start the welder and connect your temporary power supply, measure the AC at the outlets (it should be around 60VAC with a 9V battery) and the DC voltage at the weld terminals (should be above 10V), lastly measure the voltage at the wires you disconnected from the brushes (should be around 70V DC). Disconnect the temporary power supply and shut down the welder. If you didn't get AC at the outlets and DC at the weld terminals above, something is wrong with the stator in your welder. If you didn't measure any DC on the wires that go to the brushes (most likely thing to happen), you've got something wrong in the exciter circuit. Check the rectifier, the capacitor, the exciter winding in the stator, and lastly the current control board. Older welders will also have the fine current control rheostat in this circuit (look for burned windings on it).
That's about all of the general advice I can give you without knowing more about which welder you have.