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GE wall oven/micro combo JKP86WF7WW will no longer heat

I have tested the elements and sensor--all are fine.

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  • Ovens Expert
  • 650 Answers

Is it the oven or the microwave that is not heating? If it is the oven it is a very good possibility that the common relay on the control board has gone out. I have seen this several times on GEs. Unfortunately the control board will need to be replaced or repaired. Corecentricsolutions.com is very good about repairing control boards. the bad thing is you have to send them the board. Mark all connections before removing the board. (power off of course)

Posted on Mar 02, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
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SOURCE: Electric Oven doen't heat

cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Dec 27, 2006

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile -Installed wall oven - won't heat

brand new??? under a year old??? if so you have a warr call for service, but it sounds like an ignitor isssue, brand new , perhapsgot damaged in shipping 1-800-ge-cares

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: GE P7 Wall oven had bad thermostat????

IF YOUR HEATING ELEMENT IS GETTING ORANGE HOT, AND CYCLING, I WOULD SUSPECT THE THERMOSTAT TO BE THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM. YOU MAY FIND IT HARD TO FIND ONE THOUGH DUE TO ITS AGE.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: Oven doesn't reach temperature setting

It could be the plug/receptacle that the element plugs into. It could also be that the elements have separate thermostats and that the one for the lower element is bad. If you can post the model number I can look at the electrical schematic and know for sure if it has one or two thermostats.

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

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1 Answer

Cannot get the top part of my double oven to heat nor broil. The oven model is JKP26GOP2BG GE appliance. I have check voltage going to the oven and it 240 VAC and ohm the elements and they checked fine. ...


the thermal control has failed

http://applianceguru.com/forum1/18946.html

check here
perhaps as you get 126vAC ?? strange its half the supply volts
perhaps a missing something
i think your elements are in series or a missing nutral ???
each will measure 126 this way
you can atleast check the sensors resistance

mesure from nutral at the mains to each element point
did you disconnect the elements then test there resistance

even getting 126v they will heat .. half up....

so something isnt right
hope i can help

Dec 09, 2014 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

I have GE model#JKP45WOP2WG double oven wall unit. Lower oven isn't heating up properly. Bottom of lower oven doesn't seem as hot as the top of the oven... replaced oven sensor, not


Most double wall ovens are technically two separate oven boxes. The lower oven box has its bake, boil elements, high limit thermostat and ofcourse its own oven sensor. If the lower oven box boil is working good and less heat on bake feature may suggest that the bake element is burned out and only getting preheated with boil element. Just a suggestion here

Dec 05, 2014 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

Dacro Wall oven (electric) does not heat past 345 degrees on bake or convection bake but broiler works and bottom oven works fine (for bake, convection bake and broil).


it could be the oven temp sensor rod located near the top of the inside of the oven,or possibly the bake element has a hot spot on the element and can no longer pass enough current thru this spot to correctly heat to your settings a hot spot on the element will look discolored in this area

Jul 28, 2012 | Dacor Ovens

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My GE #JRP15WOP2WG wall oven, manufactured in about 1995, only starts heating if I put the temp at 550. It gets extremely hot, then I have to turn it down to 520 in order for it to click off. Unfort


Good Morning! I would check the oven temperature sensor first. There are a lot tutorial videos that can be found by Googleing, "How to test my oven temperature sensor." If the sensor is good, and reads 1100 ohms at room temperature.. then the issue youre experiencing is likely control board related. Given that the part is no longer available new, the oven board will have to be rebuilt. Fixyourboard does this and offers a 2 year warranty with each remanufacture.
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May 14, 2017 | GE 30" Built-In Single Electric Wall Oven...

1 Answer

Oven doesn't go on.


Hi.


If both baking and broiling element do not heath above a certain temperature instead, then the part to be replaced is the temperature probe, still located inside the oven cavity.


If the part that is not heating is only one element, then you may need to replace the element.
Before replacement the element can be tested removing it from the cavity and reading Ohms at the element terminals, with a multimeter set at Rx1. Disconnect power before removing the element.
In this case, selecting only baking or only broiling (depending on what element is faulty), the oven will work normally.

If the oven is a gas oven, then you have no element. In that case if the oven burners are working, replace the temperature sensor.

If replacing the temperature sensor does not help, then replace the oven electronic control.

Mar 04, 2010 | GE Ovens

2 Answers

Bottom oven doesn't heat after running self-clean cycle


Usually, when an oven won't heat, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

Aug 17, 2009 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Ge wall oven will not heat up on bake,boil or clean cycle


GE JKP86BF3BB COMBO MICRO/ELECT OVEN

NO HEAT ON BROIL OR BAKE ELEMENTS

CKD WIRING FROM PANEL OK
CKD TERMINALS AT ELEMENT HAVE 120V ON EACH ELMT
FAN COMES ON
THE ON INDICATOR SHOWS WHEN TMP &START PUSHED
MICROWAVE WORKS FINE
I ORDERED A NEW BAKE ELEMENT TO TRY-NOT HERE YET
STUMPED

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GE Advantium Microwave oven SCB2000CBB 03 LZ90Z940K


Sounds like the door monitor switch, which would take out the internal ceramic fuse. I'd replace those two plus the primary and secondary door safety interlock switches.

Sep 19, 2008 | Ovens

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