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Measure across the secondary of the transformer. If >20vac is present the board has the bug. Look for a fuse on it and visually inspect for a bad solder joint, if the board runs very warm solder joints can fatigue. If no voltage out of transformer you can buy a replacement using spec of 20volt secondary at 3 or 4 amps, since a 20 watt at 20 volt bulb consumes about 1 amp and there are 2 driven by the transformer.
the transformer has broken solder connections between the pins for the plug and the transformer board. Brave? 4 phillips screw. Black box on bottom. remove ribllon cable. Transformer out. 2 screws black cover on transformer off. Theres the board with broken solder joints to the plug pins. The large plug they used on that model broke the solder joint easily. it shoudlnt be blowing fuses though unless he tried to fix it and put in wrong one.
I had the same problem today. I use the charging plug which has the "wrench" remove the bottom screw...I was attempting to remove the battery to reset the brush. I could not get the bottom of the brush off as I did not want to use a screw driver or similar to pry it off in case I needed to return the brush.
So I was trying to pull the bottom off and my finger was on the on/off switch, as I was wiggling the bottom of the brush to try to dislodge the battery it started working.
The brush seems to have a reset button on the back but that did not do anything. The display also has moisture trapped inside it, which I am sure is not good!
Any way try this and maybe the battery will come out and I am sure that will reset the brush...if not maybe you will get lucky as I did and wiggling it will work. BTW, this is with the Oral-B Triumph Professionla Care 9000
May be inductive charging, like an electric toothbrush .The toothbrush and the base
form a two-part transformer, with the base having one part of the
transformer and the toothbrush having the other. When you slide the
toothbrush onto the base, the complete transformer is created and
charge can flow.
Black is usually negative Or nuetral, so your assumption would be correct.
As for the cicuit Board end or PCB Side, i,d look to see where the Red from the battery goes on to the Motherboard. Observe the Size of the Solder Spot, and the Black Should be in Close Proximity to that. To be more sure, if you desolder, the spot.
And put a magnet on the desoldered/Solder. any remnants of metal strands, from the broken Wire, will magnetise.
As solder is mainly non-conductive. Tin/Lead.
If there are no visible signs, of the Black-Wire being adjacent to the Red. Look On The Opposing side of the Board.
The Additional Hint Here, Is to gauge by the length of the Wire.
Hope This Is A Fixya For You.
Mike @ Compurepair.
I did the same to the cruzer as tedthehobit, and here's how I fixed it. 1) Split open enclosure with screwdriver alone edge. The small key-ring will come off when enclosure is separated. (Safety glasses, please). Circuit board is attached to plastic base--the piece for sliding the connector. 2) To see amount of damage and trace connection, remove the plastic as follows. Two notches are on each size at socket end. The other end has plastic bar across on-top. Use needle-nose piler to chew away top of notches, slowly and carefully to avoid stressing board and damaging surface. This makes it easier to move the notches to the side to lift the board up and out. 3) Look at pads where socket was attached. Fairly clean break, surrounding circuit trace and pads are intact. So, it is worth to continue. 4) The socket connection side has no large pads to solder wiring. The D+ and D- traces were lifted off slightly, but too thin to attach wire. Look at the other side. 5) Use flashlight as backlight, and follow traces from connector pads to ends of closest chips where it is big enough for soldering. [I have jpg of connection points--where to post it?] 6) Use wire-warp (hair-thin and pre-stripped) wire and small-tipped solder iron and work under bright light. Tin wire with traces of solder and remove excesses solder from iron tip. Connect wire to chip, melting and using the solder already there. 7) Solder other ends of wire to the correct tabs of the usb socket. 8) Plug usb socket into a socket extender to plug into PC. Extender is optional, but it will help to deteach from PC later. 9) Did not work the first time because 5V-line solder at circuit was not good (eventually came off). Re-solder. Plug back into PC, and cruze lit up and PC can access the file.