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Honda airwave What oil I need to buy Honda Airwave 2006. 10w-30? Synthetic, semi-synthetic or Mineral?

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  • 49 Answers

If it is a 4 stroke mower you need a 4T oil. any brand will do although better brands mean better protection. lawn mowers arent too fussed with synthetic or mineral but you need a 4T oil. not actual vehicle engine oil. there is a difference.

if its a 2 stroke any good quality 2 stroke oil works as long as its not marine fortified stuff.the mower should tell you what ratio to use.

Posted on Feb 14, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Can full synthetic oil be substituted for regular lubricant ?

No, this will damage the engine. i do not recommend this substitute. It is best to use the recommended blend.

Posted on May 14, 2009

canbruce75
  • 1776 Answers

SOURCE: I don't have a manual for my MTD Yard-Man 6.75

I personally wouldn't use synthetic in a small engine like a 6 3/4 hp. I would just use SAE 10W30. That's the oil that I use in my mowers and have never had a problem. Best wishes.

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

  • 6468 Answers

SOURCE: engine oil

every time i tried synthetic oil in a small engine it started to let oil

Posted on May 27, 2012

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What happens when we use fully synthetic oil for hero honda cd dawn [2005] model 4stroke 100cc bike


Hi, Anonymous better engine performance, internal engine parts last longer and easier starts on cold mornings for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Fully Synthetic or Semi Synthetic Motorcycle Oil Track Day Hub
http://www.elf.com/en/advice-corner/synthetic-oil-faq/benefits-of-synthetic-oil.html
Mineral or synthetic oil for your motorcycle Motorbike Writer
The Great Oil Debate Synthetic or Conventional

Apr 19, 2016 | Honda Motorcycles

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Which Oil Should I Use?


A common question is 'Which oil should I use?'

There's three categories of engine oil:
  1. Fully synthetic
  2. Semi synthetic
  3. Mineral
As a general rule of thumb, fully synthetic is the best - and the most expensive.
Semi synthetic is a blend of synthetic and mineral oil, and mineral oil is lifted out a hole in the ground in a bucket.

Oil is also given a rating of 0-30W and 5-40W. There's others, of course. This rating just refers to the viscosity - the thickness of the oil under certain conditions. 0-30W is a thinner oil than 5-40W.

At one time people used to use a thicker oil in their car engine during the winter months and a thinner oil during the summer months.

Fully synthetic 0-30W oil is often specified for engines that have 'zero tolerance'. Here, zero tolerance simply means no space between the metal of the piston and the cylinder wall. The oil must be thin enough to be able to coat the mating metal surfaces and yet be robust enough to withstand the pressures of what is basically pressurised metal to metal contact.

Using semi synthetic oil in a zero-tolerance engine will cause very rapid wear indeed. Topping up a zero-tolerance engine with mineral oil can have catastrophic results. Not only does it not afford protection but it - the mineral oil - will form a 'globule' - a ball - inside the oil sump/pan that will block the oil pump pick-up with absolute catastrophic results - very quickly.

In Europe the Saab 9-5 model had, amongst others, a V8 3000c diesel engine fitted. It was a zero-tolerance engine. Many of these cars ended up with wrecked engines simply because owners had topped up with the wrong oil. And, on a zero-tolerance engine the oil level itself is critical so much so that Saab modified the oil dipstick so that owners overfilled with oil by 1 litre. A zero-tolerance engine doesn't tolerate a 'slightly lower' oil level.

Most drivers wouldn't know if their car was a zero-tolerance engine. If you use fully synthetic 0-30W (or follow the manufacturer's recommendation) you won't go far wrong. You can use fully synthetic 0-30W in your 1956 Cadillac if you wish. It won't harm it.

Other grades of fully synthetic are fully suitable for all non-zero tolerance engines.

The difference between fully synthetic (apart from the price) and semi synthetic and mineral is that of durability. Fully synthetic 'breaks down' slower .. in other words, it lasts longer as a 'lubricant' ... does its job better.

Short journeys destroy engine oil - particularly mineral oil. Toxins and carbons accumulate in the oil and cause it to break down into 'sludge'. Semi synthetic oil is more resistant to breaking down, and fully synthetic is even better.

If you've got a decent car with a decent engine - use fully synthetic 0-30W. If it isn't a 'zero-tolerance' engine use any fully synthetic oil or semi synthetic oil.

If you have an old 1998 4 litre Jeep that burns oil like I have, a cheap mineral oil will do. But do change the oil and filter regularly. Regular oil/filter changes promotes the life of your engine - irrespective of what car you drive - and it really does prevent mechanical problems such as noisy camshafts/engine knocks.

on Nov 06, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Oil capacity


Semi 10-40W, if 1985/86 mineral 10 or 15/40W

Jan 17, 2014 | Honda VT 1100 C Shadow Motorcycles

1 Answer

I need to know whats the best type of oil to use in my 2006 rs silverado 1700, the guy before me used full synthetic.


G'day.
If the previous owner used full synthetic oil then I recomend you do so too.
As a general rule it is not recomended to mix synthetic & mineral oils together.
Also as a general rule-most synthetic oils are of a higher quality & performance over mineral or semi synthetic oils.
You technicaly can use a non synthetic oil, but you would need to drain it all & also replace the oil filter,before re-filling with mineral or semi synthetic oil.
Hope this helps.
regards Andrew Porrelli

May 11, 2011 | 2005 Yamaha Road Star Silverado 1700

1 Answer

2001 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre shifts clunky with semi-synthetic 10 w 40 oil when hot


Hi, Amandamitchel some clutches do not like synthetic oil I recommend going with factory recommendations for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Honda shadow vt1100 Owners Workshop Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VT1100C2 Owner Manual Page 3

Mar 09, 2011 | 2001 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre

1 Answer

What is the oil to gas mixing ratio- thanks


it may be different with different oils,as there are mineral or synthetic oils, but around 30-1, there will be information on the oils pack, or if you buy from a bike shop they will help

Apr 11, 2010 | 2004 Honda CR 125 R

2 Answers

Hi,have just bought cbr600fy(70,000km),will be doing oil change asap.I normally use castrol 4T.is this ok?Does the sump hold 2 litres.Cheers Jim


i had many cbr's, awesome awesome awesome. any semi or full synthetic is good , just keep adding till it reads on the glass or dipstick wichever may be the case. start with at least one litre then check it.

Nov 26, 2009 | 2000 Honda CBR 600 F(4)Y

2 Answers

I don't have the book for my car. What type of


I have a 96 accord, same motor, my recommendations on this model are 2 different kinds, 5w-30 or 10w-30. the 5W-30 is the preferred. as for which brand, I choose to go with Penzoil synthetic or synthetic blend. both are a little more expensive than regular oil. Castrol is another great choice and Valvoline has a high mileage oil out on the market. Stick with a 5W-30 and choose your brand. Good Luck!

Sep 13, 2009 | 1991 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Synthetic oil vs mineral oil


Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.

Nov 20, 2008 | 2007 Honda CBF 600 S

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