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That model may be one of those that really isn't meant to be replaced, you can try to do it. I've been the shop maintenance mechanic and have come across some Milwaukee tools grinders that were made to be throw aways! They made them so you could replace the on/off switches but brushes were the real problems with them. They were so short and tiny that they would wear out within a month of constant use. If the brushes didn't go the bearings would melt and the entire case would need to be replaced. The brush assemblies may be available if you order them from Milwaukee directly.
They are not like they old style that would be a piece of brush with a copper braided lead protruding out. Those would just drop into the slots and the spring holds pressure on them. You can find some brushes and shape them yourself as I have done with these newer tools. You'll find the springs are now part of the holder assembly and is a curled piece of spring steel that holds the pressure. So be careful if you try to reuse the assembly with another generic brush set. They will have a special shape also to deter you from using a longer lasting brush by having an offset in the design or a groove which can be flattened. I found the shapes to be like 2 squares that are offset but a rectangular shaped brush will work after its reshaped by a sander or grinder. The Milwaukee brush was 1/4" long new, replaced with 5/8" once the holder was modified, then the bearings just melted, cases melted and the motors rubbed on the windings. But I never had to replace the brushes again. Average life was between 2 weeks to 4 months (new), Hitachi similar grinders lasted 5 or more years with 1 or 2 brush replacements.
Either way you're going to take the tool apart yourself to replace them, just depends on the availability of replacements assemblies. Also the cost, you may as well order 4 sets right away if you are going to use Milwaukee's new garbage sets. 20 years ago I used a similar grinder for 5 years of constant every day use, replaced the cord a few times, never had any other problems.
Now I wouldn't even bother to take them apart, just about every other brand made is equal to or better than Milwaukee and cost 1/2 as much plus they use interchangeable parts. Now you're paying for Milwaukee's redesigning and engineering teams quest to constantly change parts, making sure that you cannot service them using any old parts. Right down to the cords, they spend all their money on developing new ways to do the same thing but making sure it is not compatible with last years models parts. Once your tool is made outside the USA there's no reason to buy any 1 brand, they will all be the same in the end and just dyed a different color and have labels stuck on the cases.
I'm assuming that engine runs fine. if there's no power output then the AVR or carbon brushes are dead. remove the back cover of the alternator very carefully and look at the center to find the rotor rings and check if the plastic brush holder hasn't melt or heat deformed and make sure the brushes make good contact against the rotor rings. if everything's fine then the AVR is dead. The AVR is a crescent shaped plastic container similar to this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Automatic-Voltage-Regulator-AVR-For-5KW-5-5KW-Single-Phase-Gasoline-Generator-/221461125389
replace it with any similar found on Ebay, just make sure that connectors and cables are similar in shape and number. Regards
total the fuses on the amp eg.3 -20amp fuses = 60 amps and get a fuse holder that can handle that amount of amps the amplifier draws with matching fuse and change the one that was melted ,also very important is to have a clean grounded wire to chasis from amplifier.
Most of our issues with Dremel tools is with the plastic brush holder. If the tool is used for exetnded periods of time or 'leaned' on too much the holder will get hot enough melt and keep the brushes from contacting the armature properly. Try taking your brushes out, if they don't slide in and out of the holder freely you may need to file or cut away any plastic that is holding the brushes off the armature. This may require you taking the brush holder out so you don't damage the armature. Be careful with the brush holder, it is not available as a replacement part.
The problem is suspected to be the 'contacts' at the base of the bulb socket/holder/fixture - poor contact. If the contact point overheated and it melted (then 'sank' into its holder/fixture, then replace the bulb socket.
Changing front, right turn signal on 2005 Buick Terraza:
Open hood; when facing the front of vehicle, the right turn signal is on the passenger
side (left).The headlight assembly
needs to be removed to easily reach the turn signal.On my vehicle, there is a 10 mm screw on the
left side.Remove it.There is L-shaped pin on the right side of
the headlight assembly.Swing the pin counter-clockwise
(to the left).Pull the pin straight up
to remove.The headlight assembly is now
loose, but there is a pin snapped in a socket on the back of the assembly that
still holds the assembly.Pull the
headlight assembly hard and straight to the front of the vehicle.When it snaps loose, the assembly is now held
just by the rubber gasket surrounding the assembly.You need to gently work the right side of the
gasket out of the grill cowling.The
assembly should pull straight out.The
wires are long enough to lay the headlight assembly in the engine compartment.Finally, the turn signal is now accessible. Twist the light holder counter-clockwise and
pull out the light holder. Change the
bulb.Do not punch your man-card for
credit until you have successfully reinstalled the headlight assembly.It goes back in a little easier the second
time.Once you have put the L-pin in
place, the screw back, and successfully tested the lights, you can now punch
your man-card. I give the mechanical engineers and designers a
D-minus instead of an F only because I was successful on the first try.No light bulb on anything commonly used by
people should be this hard to figure out.
if you have found the fuse holder, each fuse socket should have an imprint of what the fuse is for. look for brake/tail, or something similar. remove the flat, color-coded fuse and hold it up so you can see the internal elements. there's a little s shaped part between 2 upright flat parts that are extensions of the 'plug in' connectors that connect the fuse to the fuse holder- if you see a gap (melted section) in this s looking section, then the fuse is 'blown', and will need replacing. use the same colored fuse to replace it! if it fails again quickly, then there's probably a short in your light fixtures or wiring somewhere in the circuit!get online and check for any recalls for your year and model! good luck!